onboost

Hello and Happy New Year to all!

Jurgen, I would agree still with TT Surgeon, I too believe this is an Alan Johnson Racing conversion. All the queues are present and it is very nicely done.

Good lick with it and enjoy that beautiful car.. I know I'm enjoying the pictures! So much so that I have spent most of the weekend in the garage working to reassemble mine!

Brian, thanks for posting the pics.. I see what you are talking about regarding the jack points. They are incorrect and poorly done as stated. Do they appear to be sturdy enough for use?
Somewhere in my files I have a factory diagram of what the extension and brace should look like. If I can find it I will post.

Regarding the cooler lines and thermostat.. the lines appear to have been made-up (notice the joints every few inches to get the needed bends) to move the thermostat back (as the factory did) but they are incorrect in there bend and placement. There is also the absence of the threaded stud on the tube which is used to secure the oil lines against the tub to keep them from bouncing around. Its usually just below the lower crease in the tub but above the pinch weld.. I think you can see the light spot in the picture where it was removed. No big worry as a competent shop can weld one back on.

As for the line themselves, I believe the factory lines from the cooler to the thermostat are still available for the slant. If not, again a competent shop should be able to make these, or they can be made in braided stainless.. may be the cheapest route. (can you post a pic of the same area but where the lines connect to the cooler?) Thx

Also, the lower line off the thermostat going that connects to the engine line is braided stainless.. so also aftermarket or something that was made-up. Not that there is anything wrong with it.. it is obviously doing its job.

That being said, I'm not sure which conversion you have as someone spent major time to get the oil cooler in the factory location, but they fell down on the fabrication of the lines and the rocker extensions. Still a super nice car however so enjoy it!

My thought is that this may be a car where the parts were purchased from AJR and another shop did the conversion.. again I say this because of the single motor light, oil cooler placement, and the composite vent strikes as opposed to steel.

Regards,

Paul

wdr911

to JGT

I sent you a private message.

regards Dave

BWH

Hi Onboost

Thanks for all the information, I would like to correct the lines and the lifting point brackets. Yes they do work to lift the car but they look like crap. I know you can't see it from out side the car but I would like to fix it properly. I scraped the paint and undercoating off the oil lines and they are stainless steel. No leaks but the welding looks like ****. Do you know what material was used in the factory lines? or have any pictures of the right set up.
I will look and see If I can find a picture of the lifting point brackets and make a set up like the stock ones.






Thanks so much for your help
Take Care and Happy New Year
Brian

onboost

Hi Brian,

No problem at all.. glad I could help. I've had several of these cars, a factory special wishes, an all steel non-factory, and my current AJR conversion.. which I actually like the best.

The lines as shown are definitely something that was made-up. The assumption is the attempt was to duplicate the factory lines. They are probably aluminum as opposed to stainless, as stainless is too expensive to not set-up properly and would require more precise bends etc..
The factory lines would be a combination of rubber and metal such as any other 911 or Turbo oil line used from thermostat to tank.. the difference being the bends.

Attached are;
- A. Picture of proper lines in place on 505 Turbo
- B. Diagram of factory 505 oil cooler lay-out
You need items;
#3 = 930.107.948.00 (-88) @ $455
# 4 = 930.107.949.00 (-88) @ $487

Should you decide you want to change the lines from the tank to the thermostat as well, then you will need also;
#1= 930.107.947.00 @ $205

I would not bother with #2 as I believe your car may have headers which requires the metal pipe that crosses under the engine and connects to the braided line.. which is fine.

onboost

Tried to post the pics/attachments but apparently this wonky site says that I've exceeded my quota..? Really? I haven't posted pics in a couple of years I think.

Anyway, send me a pm with your email address and I will be glad to forward them directly to you.

Regards,

JGT

Hi Dave

Nothing received

Jürgen

wdr911

Jagath

Check your visitor massages.

Regards

onboost

Brian,

Glad You received the pics, if you wouldn't mind, could you please post them so others that may be in the same dilemma will have a reference.

Also, if it were me.. I would find a good local speed shop and have the hoses made from braided stainless or braided Teflon using AN fittings and adaptors. Believe that line size should be about -16

Good luck on the journey!

BWH

Hi Onboost

I am posting the pictures for you and all the members that might like to see what the factory set up is like from the pictures you sent to help me out.






Sorry for the cut off on the drawing I don't seem to be able to post the entire
drawing for some reason.
Thanks Again
Brian

JGT

Thank you Brian!

@Paul
Your car Loks like New in the arches what have you been
doing?
@ all
have a nice weekend

Jürgen

onboost

Brian, thanks for putting that up. Again, I'm not sure why the site would let me load it. Anyway, still looking through files and notes for the jack support detail.

Enjoy!

Hi Jürgen,

I wish I could say that picture was of my car.. but then I would truly not want to drive it!

The wheel well pic is from a "paint to sample" factory 505 Slantnose. It was bought new by the owner of a dealer, was later acquired by Holt Motorsport in PA, where I had the opportunity to purchase it at what would now be a steal. It was sold some years ago and I'm not sure where it is now.. but it is a one-off.. so if seen, its the same car.

onboost

Brian,

Attached is a copy of the factory drawing for the jack-point extension. I am not sure that this is still available through Porsche. However, its pretty simple and any competent fabricators should be able to make this.

Hope this helps you and any others seeking this info. Good luck with your projects!

Paul-

BWH

Paul thanks for looking for and finding the picture of the jacking point. I can see what was done on mine and it was done half right. The post on my car was extended, but the cross brace was welded to the top of the post and not at a 45* or so angle. It's more of a reinforcing web than a brace. This I can repair myself when I remove the box rockers to have them painted.

Thanks again for your help
Brian

JadeHabu

Guys, love reading about old Slants. I am current owner of a very early version. Ordered 6/81 (it was built on an 81 chassis-hence I call it an 81), delivered 3/82. The original owner went to Stuttgart and layed eyes on ther very first one being finished (only true 81 model). Two others were in the process. One was just getting started, one had fenders off and getting ready for fabrication. He ordered his next day. PCoA does state 505 code, but being a Werks car, very scarce paperwork. It took forever to get the PCoA! In the pic, you will notice dual headlights on the front dam. I understand this was changed very early as the lights were deemed not street equip. I believe all models later in 82 did not have the duals. As far as I can verify, this one was truly "hand made" at works. There are some pics out there of Porsche Werks hand hammering the metal on bucks to get the shape.

mel_t_vin

Beautiful car!

Start another thread and put up more exterior/interior/engine photos of your car...please.