A930Rocket

Pelican has it all incl CV joint rebuilt kits for less than $10.00 each. 60 Ft Lbs like Brian said.

I have the half moon plates, but no Schnorr serrated/bevelled washers.

I've found that the molylube in the kits doesn't last long. It seems to turn to a syrup like goo. I'm repacking my CV joints this weekend I'm going to try something else.

Maxx1

I tore everything apart and here are the official findings.

This came apart at about 20 mph, so it looks like I was very lucky. The bolts are barely nicked at the ends. One bolt will probably need replaced, but I'll probably just replace all of them to be sure.

The weird thing is, there was no locking hardware of any kind on the bolts ..... the other weird thing is, the inner CV wasn't really all that tight.... I took it off with a 3/8 rachet. Just for fun, I went over to the other side and set my torque wrench for 20 ft lbs. It clicked right away. I set it for 25 ft lbs and the bolt turned just a tad and then clicked..... so these bolts were torqued, or had loosened to between 20 and 25 ft lbs. If these are supposed to be torqued to 60 ft lbs, I was set up to do the same on all the other joints as well.

I know, I'm missing one bolt.




The rest of the hardware was in good shape. The inside gasket was torn up of course. The bearing housing had a few scuffs on it, but nothing serious. These parts all have that black Moly grease on it...... shouldn't it be like heavy duty wheel bearing grease?




And here is the inner wheel ..... nothing to see here folks, just move along ......





Not many questions .... I see the hardware recommended from the other thread.

What kind of grease is recommended? Wheel bearing or a lighter Moly like what was in there?


This is easy compared to working on that stupid engine.

Maxx1

Cool, I'll check it out. Thanks, all you guys are a big help

Maxx1

I think I'll try that heavier wheel bearing grease .... I assume that's what you mean.
I'll check with Pelican to see what all is in the kits. Thanks.

nathanUK '81 930 G50

Those schnorr washers are excellent. I have them in my 915 tranny thanks to Hayden of Wevo.

The CV's on my '84 911 3.2 carrera don't have any washers on & I have never had one come loose. Damaged on the inside yes, but no loose bolts. The ***** have dented the outer piece.

onboost

Maxx..

Man you have been going through it! Don't worry though.. just take your time and work through it.

I would take a weekend, get the car up on stands, pull the wheels and just go through it from front to back. Check all the nuts and bolts, hoses and clamps... everything. On a freshely restored car.. that you didn't do.. you'll be surprised what you find. After this excercise you should be able to enjoy it a while.. trouble free!.

I'm going through that with my car.. it had been put away and stored for awhile.. brought it out drove it a bit, got tired of the leaks and decided to go through it. This was in April!...its taking longer than I thought due to time constraints and reliability upgrades being added along the way. Replacing a lot of the hoses that normally leak with either silicone or braided stainless. Should be worth it when done... then I can get back to EVO hunting!

You've got a beautiful car.. just take your time and go through it!!

Paul

DougM

A hint to save a lot of mess and hours of labor. Look in your local yellow pages under axles. There is probably a shop that does nothing but rebuild them. Bring in the axles and new boots and they will generally charge around $70-$100 per axle. They completely steam clean them before repacking and repainting. They look like new when you get them back. Make sure you mark inner and outer if you are not replacing the CV.

Gary R.

Max - The Swepco Moly based grease is what is recommended and what I would use. I would just replace the boots and gaskets, pack each bearing with 1/4 tube of Swepco and button them up. They only leak if a boot tears in my experience and with new boots that should be a while out.

Maxx1

I have an order on hole over at Pelican... I may just add a tube of Swepco and a couple of bolts to it. The boots look brand new .... I think this guy that I bought it from went over the whole car less than 1,000 miles ago.... I know he had the motor dropped and he said he had new rear wheel bearings pressed in... plus there was tons of grease inside the boot when I pulled it apart, so it's been serviced not too long ago.

I'll retorque the bolts and keep a check on them every 500 miles or so to make sure they are not loosening up.

notthd

I have blown a joint in between shifting gears in the past due to one or two of the bolt loosening up and sheering the remaining ones under load. Very ugly, load bang followed by noises you never want to hear coming from under the car.
I agree with everyones input but one thing to consider about the locking washers is the track guys are under thier cars and check thier joints, bolts, torque often. Street cars do not see the same attention as often IMHO. Racers will catch it before it breaks, most after.....

Maxx1

Yikes!

I was very lucky.... I was basically ******* it because I didn't want to stop for gas. It fell apart on my street going about 20 mph.

I haven't had time to work on it, but maybe this weekend I will get it back together.

WERK-I

Torque your bolts to the 60ft/lbs as discussed and also use a star pattern to tighten them up. This will provide even pressure on the flanges on each end of the halfshafts.