Clicking sound whenever I blip the throttle ....
#1
Clicking sound whenever I blip the throttle ....
I wonder what that is all about? All I did was remove the intercooler and reinstall it. It seems to be seated and sealed properly. The car runs great, but every now and then the idle goes erratic and decides to stall at a stoplight or stopsign.
It's an 82 930.
It's an 82 930.
#4
Here's a response I got to this very same question sometime back...it's a no-big-deal really....but here's what the folks who know say...I asked the same question about a slight "tick" or "click" when you tap the accelerator while at idle...very distinct sound.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The 2 seals in each end of the BOV housing are part # 930 110 149 00
The bag they come in says "Air Box Gasket"
There is one at each end of the BOV cylinder under the aluminum covers.
The seal at the piston crown end also acts as a bumper so metal to metal contact (your click) does not happen when the valve closes or slams shut.
After some time this large washer shaped seal which looks like it is made of urethane, gets hammered into a wax like mush by the BOV piston.
If you replace them, the piston is under mild spring pressure so keep a hand over the cover when removing the 10mm nuts.
The one at the spring guide end is probably ok, but it's cheap to replace them both anyway.
It's a normal occurance, and all of them do it eventually.
Very easy and inexpensive to fix yourself.
$10 for both of them.
hope this helps...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The 2 seals in each end of the BOV housing are part # 930 110 149 00
The bag they come in says "Air Box Gasket"
There is one at each end of the BOV cylinder under the aluminum covers.
The seal at the piston crown end also acts as a bumper so metal to metal contact (your click) does not happen when the valve closes or slams shut.
After some time this large washer shaped seal which looks like it is made of urethane, gets hammered into a wax like mush by the BOV piston.
If you replace them, the piston is under mild spring pressure so keep a hand over the cover when removing the 10mm nuts.
The one at the spring guide end is probably ok, but it's cheap to replace them both anyway.
It's a normal occurance, and all of them do it eventually.
Very easy and inexpensive to fix yourself.
$10 for both of them.
hope this helps...
Last edited by Chuck Jones; 07-06-2007 at 05:51 PM. Reason: Add info
#5
Originally Posted by Chuck Jones
Here's a response I got to this very same question sometime back...it's a no-big-deal really....but here's what the folks who know say...I asked the same question about a slight "tick" or "click" when you tap the accelerator while at idle...very distinct sound.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The 2 seals in each end of the BOV housing are part # 930 110 149 00
The bag they come in says "Air Box Gasket"
There is one at each end of the BOV cylinder under the aluminum covers.
The seal at the piston crown end also acts as a bumper so metal to metal contact (your click) does not happen when the valve closes or slams shut.
After some time this large washer shaped seal which looks like it is made of urethane, gets hammered into a wax like mush by the BOV piston.
If you replace them, the piston is under mild spring pressure so keep a hand over the cover when removing the 10mm nuts.
The one at the spring guide end is probably ok, but it's cheap to replace them both anyway.
It's a normal occurance, and all of them do it eventually.
Very easy and inexpensive to fix yourself.
$10 for both of them.
hope this helps...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The 2 seals in each end of the BOV housing are part # 930 110 149 00
The bag they come in says "Air Box Gasket"
There is one at each end of the BOV cylinder under the aluminum covers.
The seal at the piston crown end also acts as a bumper so metal to metal contact (your click) does not happen when the valve closes or slams shut.
After some time this large washer shaped seal which looks like it is made of urethane, gets hammered into a wax like mush by the BOV piston.
If you replace them, the piston is under mild spring pressure so keep a hand over the cover when removing the 10mm nuts.
The one at the spring guide end is probably ok, but it's cheap to replace them both anyway.
It's a normal occurance, and all of them do it eventually.
Very easy and inexpensive to fix yourself.
$10 for both of them.
hope this helps...
#6
Originally Posted by Maxx1
I wonder what that is all about? All I did was remove the intercooler and reinstall it. It seems to be seated and sealed properly. The car runs great, but every now and then the idle goes erratic and decides to stall at a stoplight or stopsign.
It's an 82 930.
It's an 82 930.
One thing you always need to do on a turbo is have the CIS system checked with a wide band oxygen sensor from the left and then right exhaust headers to make sure your air to fuel ratio is good at both cylinder banks. Improper air to fuel will melt your pistons or perhaps stall you out, depending on which way, too lean or too rich. just a good thing to check on a new purchase.
Also, a dirty fuel filter could cause stalling out.
If you are running an air conditioning, your idle may be erratic. Mine is when I run the AC, so I turn it off often at stop lights (just when you really need it). This has to do with the flywheel, I think, but don't quote me on that.
Last edited by DDD; 07-06-2007 at 07:48 PM.
#7
Originally Posted by Chuck Jones
Here's a response I got to this very same question sometime back...it's a no-big-deal really....but here's what the folks who know say...I asked the same question about a slight "tick" or "click" when you tap the accelerator while at idle...very distinct sound.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The 2 seals in each end of the BOV housing are part # 930 110 149 00
The bag they come in says "Air Box Gasket"
There is one at each end of the BOV cylinder under the aluminum covers.
The seal at the piston crown end also acts as a bumper so metal to metal contact (your click) does not happen when the valve closes or slams shut.
After some time this large washer shaped seal which looks like it is made of urethane, gets hammered into a wax like mush by the BOV piston.
If you replace them, the piston is under mild spring pressure so keep a hand over the cover when removing the 10mm nuts.
The one at the spring guide end is probably ok, but it's cheap to replace them both anyway.
It's a normal occurance, and all of them do it eventually.
Very easy and inexpensive to fix yourself.
$10 for both of them.
hope this helps...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The 2 seals in each end of the BOV housing are part # 930 110 149 00
The bag they come in says "Air Box Gasket"
There is one at each end of the BOV cylinder under the aluminum covers.
The seal at the piston crown end also acts as a bumper so metal to metal contact (your click) does not happen when the valve closes or slams shut.
After some time this large washer shaped seal which looks like it is made of urethane, gets hammered into a wax like mush by the BOV piston.
If you replace them, the piston is under mild spring pressure so keep a hand over the cover when removing the 10mm nuts.
The one at the spring guide end is probably ok, but it's cheap to replace them both anyway.
It's a normal occurance, and all of them do it eventually.
Very easy and inexpensive to fix yourself.
$10 for both of them.
hope this helps...
+2
I noticed the same sound 2 years ago and thought it had to be associated with the throttle linkage etc. I stumbled across them after looking for intake leaks and discovered they needed replacing. When I R&R the seals, they were brittle and broken apart and after replacement, this brought the spool times up alot sooner. Not to mention the clicking sound disappeared. My seals were beaten up pretty bad.
Like Chuck suggested, cheap and easy fix.
Good luck.
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#9
Located on the left side of the engine compartment directly under the intercooler. The gaskets are #7 in the diagram and are covered by #5 and #6. Both run parallel along the intake hoses connected right after the air flow meter. I hope the diagram helps...
#10
I had the same situation, my mechanic rebuilt the BOV unit with new gaskets and it went away. If your case is like mine, you are hearing the metal to metal because those gaskets are history. Mine was also leaky from the wear. In adition to the gaskets I think my mechanic replaced the springs and little plunger "thingy" as well.
#11
Excellent info on the BOV fix !! Thanks.
The CIS seems to be on the rich side. I let the car idle in the driveway and then the next day pulled a few plugs ... they are black. The weird thing is, the car does idle proper most of the time, but whenever it wants to, goes into the erratic idle. I would think if the CIS were the problem, it would be a constant erratic idle.
Does this 82 CIS setup have any intake relays, solenoids, vacuum switches that could stick time to time? .... that would help explain the randomness of the uneven idle and stalling...
The CIS seems to be on the rich side. I let the car idle in the driveway and then the next day pulled a few plugs ... they are black. The weird thing is, the car does idle proper most of the time, but whenever it wants to, goes into the erratic idle. I would think if the CIS were the problem, it would be a constant erratic idle.
Does this 82 CIS setup have any intake relays, solenoids, vacuum switches that could stick time to time? .... that would help explain the randomness of the uneven idle and stalling...
#12
Originally Posted by Shaka
Located on the left side of the engine compartment directly under the intercooler. The gaskets are #7 in the diagram and are covered by #5 and #6. Both run parallel along the intake hoses connected right after the air flow meter. I hope the diagram helps...
Here's another question: If those seals are gone (and I believe mine are), will it affect boost???
#14
Originally Posted by Cajun
Thanks for the diagram & the post. They were both EXTREMELY helpful.
Here's another question: If those seals are gone (and I believe mine are), will it affect boost???
Here's another question: If those seals are gone (and I believe mine are), will it affect boost???
Although I didn't notice a difference in peak boost levels before I replaced these seals, once I did replace them, I noticed that boost came on sooner.
Not an expert and others please chime in, but I believe since this is part of the air intake, any leak or improper sealing would effect boost levels and boost response.