ProtoCab

Guys,

I'm going to buy a LC-1 & possibly the XD-16 gauge shortly.

Can anyone tell me what length sensor cable comes with this kit?

I'm hoping it's at least 10ft and if not, they'll supply one with an extended cable?!?

J. Brinkley

phil said the cables aren't long enough. He had to order some 2.5 mini plugs online somewhere to go from the backseat to the gauge in the front. His screen name is kcpsg on pelican, I think rennlist also.

im4duke

I have one in a box. I'll measure it tonite. Pretty sure it's much less than 10ft and I recall somone else complaining how Innovate would not consider making/selling an extension...

Will report back this evening.

bleucamaro

I have the LC-1 and XD-16 Gauge in the 944, and the cable from the sensor to the LC-1 is about 4-5 ft. Its long enough to route from the sensor to the controller and keep the controller well away from any exhaust parts. The cable to the gauge is about 6' long, but you're in luck. Its a stereo headphone jack (1/8") and you can most likely use a stereo patch cable from Radio-Shack to connect up. The cable to the DME is also about 6' long, and I didn't have any trouble routing through the firewall and still have a couple feet coiled up under the dash. The good news on this cable is that the individual wires are un-terminated and you can solder splice as long as you need.

SGOGT4

Won't be long enough for a 911... I just spliced the line.

im4duke

I measured mine to be 78 inches tip to tip. The LC-1 is probably 6 inches, so 7 feet of wire/cable.

ProtoCab

GREAT! If they offer the LM-1 with a 10ft cable, why the hell not the LC-1?

J. Brinkley

If I did it again I'd use another brand, the amount of money phil and I spent at innovate is too much for all the hassles we've both had. I have a LM1 with gauge permanent install and we're working on phil's lc1 and xd-16.
I **** you not, the mini plugs on my LM1 are different than phil's LC1, even though the manual says thery're the same. Don't know what happened there. You would hope for that kind of money you wouldn't have to cut/splice.
Then again though, autometer gauges/senders were all too short also. What else can I rant about?
the damn serial plug from the lc1 and lm1.....nobody puts a serial plug on laptops anymore. adaptors from radio shack don't work, best buy and circut city also. Of course innovate sells one for $30. It looks exactly like the $10 dollar one at best buy.
They have a good product, I just wish it was more complete. I will not be spebding anymore money at innovate. I've got a couple years out of my LM1 and when it dies, it's goin in the trash.

KCPSG

I imagine that the LC-1 cables would be more than long enough for any front engine car, however I was not able to locate any 2.5mm male - male plugs @ Best buy, Circuit city or Radio shack. I had to order them online and the plug end was still not the same as the LC-1 plug ends. I had to file some of the rubber off of the outside edge to get them to fit into the LC-1 connector.

I called Innovate to see if they could or would sell me a longer lead, they said they could not do it.
I'll be working more on it today (so this is still not working for me yet)(middle of other big project) but I feel that for the $400 I had to pay, that this should have been a little more plug and play.

IIRC I had to lengthen 3 of the 7 wires approx. 6' to get them to the dash for power and grounds. The 2.5mm cable needed to be 12' for me to get it to the XD-16 that I'm mounting where the clock used to be.

PorschePhD

We use them on everything including the dyno. Just lengthen the leads. It is not a big deal and you are going to find that the Innovate stuff is accurate and some of your cheaper longer wired sets are not! This is your 20K motor you are looking at keeping safe. Don't short cut the equipment that will help you keep it healthy!

Chet 930

Ha...funny this thread came up. I went to go do mine last night and it is short. I saw it though before I attempted the install.

nathanUK '81 930 G50

Is solder and heat shrink the best way to extend them or crimps ? I laugh at scotchlocks, in fact I think they should be banned.

38D

Solder & heat shrink is always the best way!

nathanUK '81 930 G50

Thanks.

911rudy

If you route the LM-1 long wire up through the cold side of the turbo and through the back side of the lower engine bay tin, then through the tranny hole, there is enough length to reach the center console. There is not enough to go behind the console though and you cannot mount the LM-1 unit on the front side and make it look professional. I would recommend making the splice inside of the cockpit rather than in the heat and oil of the engine compartment. I also agree that solder and heat shrink is the only way to go. Innovate is not making any friends on this forum and it makes you wonder what kind of mindset these people have.