Olli

I started upgrading some of the bolt-on components on my car last June. There is still some work, and most notably adjustments, to be made before the car is in an acceptable running condition again. Due to the time taken, I got impatient and took the car to the dyno already now. I will obviously have to do it again when the work is completed. By work I mean re-position the O2 sensor, get the Data Logging working without killing the tach, and adjusting the fuel pressures under the different conditions once my AFR reading is reliable.

First and foremost I need to thank everyone who has been more than generous to me with their time and abundant advice that has been invaluable:

The whole iA staff: Stephen, Nathan, Carl and Aaron for too many things to list
Brian Leask who has helped me way beyond the confines of the WUR and then some
Chris Carroll for the painstakingly detailed information about the DV and more
Nathan for the manuals
Wayne Corley at RUF
and last but not least Carmine Cupani of CARR Industries who made it all happen

OK, three runs: changing boost with a RUF MBC:

First: boost at somewhere between 1.2 and 1.3:



Second: boost somewhere between 1.0 and 1.1:



Third:

boost somewhere between 0.9 and 1.0:



Just for the record: the 1.2 - 1.3 bar levels are not going to happen again.
And yes, I know the AFRs look atrocious after 4000RPM. The plan is to have that fixed with the Full Throttle pressure adjustments already now before it's too late (Thanks Brian!) and then fine tuning it when my AFR readings are reliable.

Olli

This is a partial list of some key components:

3.4 cylinders & 98 mm pistons that were used for RUF BTRs in their day
RUF Cams
RUF Intercooler

K-27 HFS that replaced a K27-7006 (This is the part that started it all)
Imagine Auto modified Fuel Distributor (replacing the Euro fuel head)
B&B headers (replacing the old stock headers)
Tial 46mm WG replacing the old stock WG
Adjustable WUR
Added the RUF MBC (the car had had one but one of the previous owners must have kept the original)
Billet Diverter Valve from Turbo Kraft (added this one - the car did not have one)
FabSpeed dual exhaust (had to do this because of fit - issues)
Evo Air box and filter (replacing the stock air-box)

As you can tell, just a couple of bolt-on upgrades, but what a difference they made! I am naturally keeping all the old parts.

38D

Impressive power. Get that A/F fixed before you dyno again.

Olli

Thanks Colin

youngkang

That is some serious power. You got more ***** or $$$ than I do (probably both), with A/F ratio like that I would have freaked and stopped dynoing after the first run.

Olli

Probably more like something missing upstairs perhaps....
But seriously, as I stated before, in different words, I won't try this at home and will positively get that AFR issue sorted out before doing another dyno session, or going over 4000RPM for that matter in my regular driving.

nathanUK '81 930 G50

Thanks.

What CO at idle do you have ?

Chet 930

Nice.......I knew I should have bought that car!

Olli

It was 3.3 at the dyno.

Olli

I should add that the best part of the combined effect of the new turbo and all the other new parts as a whole seems to be that not only does the car feel a lot stronger during a longer rev range, but it feels more confident and consistent. The car has become predictable, in a good way, which is great.

It may have been like that in the past when it was newer, but it needed a little freshening up.

youngkang

There are so much more power left in that set up it's not funny. Possibly 600hp or more at one bar if you could get more fuel.