nathanUK '81 930 G50

After reading Stephens post Is it possible you muddled up your hoses to your distributor ? My car has two hoses running to it. Suck or blow on the units, do they move or leak ?

Tripster

The Distributor only has 1 hose, I really don't think there is a leak there, when you pull the vacume hose off the Dist the motor rev's pretty high.
Also, the latest news is the new BUNG (im going to forget that one) is installed and I plan to see what the actuall AFR is tonight with hopes of, as Stephen put it "call it a day".
The timing is now @ 29 BTDC @ 4000 I will shoot for 14.7 AFR @ 900 RPM and see where is goes to @ 3000 RPM.

Tripster

Ok guys, Here is what I have. Installed the LM-1, warmed the motor to normal temp and the AFR was 13.2. I re-set it @ 13.3-13.4 and drove the car and let it idle and it stayed the same. Took it to the road and at 3000 rpm it leaned to 13.4-13.5 steady. Brought the car home and found glowing orange headers. and it's not that dark out.
Timing is @ 29 @ 4000 firm and does not move around.
AFR 13.3 - 13.4 @ idle 900 rpm
AFR 13.4 - 13.5 @ 3000 cruising.
Let me say again, this car cranks, idles, and runs as good as a new car, No bull on this statement

A930Rocket

Did you calibrate it first before starting the car?

What happens when you get on it for a long run on boost? What kind of reading do you have?

38D

Yes, were your 13s on or off boost?

RarlyL8

13.4:1 AFR is 3% CO. Your Gunson tester was spot on when used in the passenger's exhaust (straight shot from the turbo).
Are you going to the Dyno on Wednesday? I'd like to check it out.

Tripster

I did calibrate it just as the manual called for. The figures given was @ idle and driving down the road normal. I have not checked anything on boost because the problem is in normal driving mode. Stephen states it could be a leaky injector, this car never smokes, misses or loads up in any way, if it was not for a glowing header, it would be perfect. This thing is red hot from EVERY port all the way from the head to the turbo. Evenly Hot.
There is no need at this point to go to the Dyno, not point.

Tripster

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who stuck with me trying to get this problem solved. For right now I am going to re-group and start over. Saturday I plan to pull this motor and re-time the cams to the 1.90 spec's that they should be set on when installed. Also, I am going to remove all the injectors and have them tested and cleaned as Stephen sugested. Then I plan to put the motor back in and spank a few of my buddies. With the car running as good as it does now producing the heat it is, I know it will be a little Beast when corrected.
Thanks guys

DonE

My engine developed an oil leak about a week ago - right at the cam gasket to cam chain box. So, I decided to fix it Monday and thought I would have to at least partially drop the motor. The good news, is that you do not need to drop the motor in anyway to adjust cam timing or repair a failed gasket. The bad news was that when I double checked the cam timing, it was .35mm retarded from target (or what I thought I set it at on the rebuild). So, I replaced the crushed paper gasket (crushed at one of the three bolt holes), reassembled everything and timed the cams at 2.35mm (range is 2.2 to 2.4). I put it all together and remembered that I did not torque the cam bolts.... WTF

So, after torquing the bolts correctly, I took the car out for a drive. I can honestly say (and some of you know my pet peeve of "seat of the pants measurements"), this motor rocks. The off boost accel is easily equal to a naturally aspirated motor. I took it out today and drove in city traffic - wow, what a difference. Its fun to drive in traffic now. It's hard to believe that .35 made this much difference.

I still have about an 8.5 on the grin-o-meter five hours later....

Tripster - good luck

38D

Hey Don, how did you re-time the cams with all the rockers still in? Do you just pull the cam pin and then turn the engine over using the crank until the next hole in the sprocket lines up?

DonE

Basically. Since I have a super C2 cam that does not have radical lobes, the cam stayed put while I adjusted the crank, or visa versa. To move .35mm, I loosened the cam bolt, moved the crank slightly with the pin still in place, tightened the bolt again and checked the timing. One side I had to move the pin.