B&B Headers Glowing Red?
#31
What's the latest? Did you rip the engine out again and put the stock cams back in? How about removing the headers and putting the Euro exhaust back on to see if it is the headers causing this?
#33
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Just got in the house from working on the car.
I have moved the timing and the CO several times. Right now I have advanced the timing to 29 @ 4000 and adjusted the CO to 4.0 (pretty rich considering I normally run ut @ 2.8). The headers are B&B (new from Stephen Casper). They don't seem to be as arange as they was with the other settings, but still orange at idle. I really need to know if they should or should not be orange at all in a dark garage?
Next step is for me to pull and check the Cam timing, but I do feel pretty good about it being right.
I have moved the timing and the CO several times. Right now I have advanced the timing to 29 @ 4000 and adjusted the CO to 4.0 (pretty rich considering I normally run ut @ 2.8). The headers are B&B (new from Stephen Casper). They don't seem to be as arange as they was with the other settings, but still orange at idle. I really need to know if they should or should not be orange at all in a dark garage?
Next step is for me to pull and check the Cam timing, but I do feel pretty good about it being right.
#37
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Dyno was scheduled for this morning 60 miles away, I was afraid to drive the car that far. Im pretty sure the tester is good as well, it's pretty new and I had the car tuned with it before the mods was aded last week. Car was tuned very nice, good performance and 21.8 MPG. If I don't figure out anything by late morning, I am pulling it down to check the Cam timing. I really do beleive that will be a waste in my opinion.
Big Question,
After driving very mild, should you see a glowing header in the dark?
When left to idle, it does not go away.
Big Question,
After driving very mild, should you see a glowing header in the dark?
When left to idle, it does not go away.
#39
Drifting
Beyond your CO, which I assume you're setting and testing at idle, I'd be more concerned about what your actual AFR numbers are through the RPM range with a load on the engine. That's why I went with an Innovate tester. The biggest lesson I'm learning from the CIS game is the role the WUR plays. It does much more than I ever realized.
For example, my problem is that my AFRs are extremely RICH at high RPMs. So rich that I'm losing HP. In addition, I have been unable to tune this richness out with the mixture control screw. So I've had to order a CIS pressure tester which will allow me to measure what my WUR is doing regarding "cold", "warm", and "full throttle enrichment" pressures. These are all functions of the WUR. Once I have this data, Brian Leask can re-build an "adjustable" WUR for me that will even out (flatten) my AFRs through the RPM range. His WUR will also allow me to fine tune the AFR curve.
I hope this helps...
For example, my problem is that my AFRs are extremely RICH at high RPMs. So rich that I'm losing HP. In addition, I have been unable to tune this richness out with the mixture control screw. So I've had to order a CIS pressure tester which will allow me to measure what my WUR is doing regarding "cold", "warm", and "full throttle enrichment" pressures. These are all functions of the WUR. Once I have this data, Brian Leask can re-build an "adjustable" WUR for me that will even out (flatten) my AFRs through the RPM range. His WUR will also allow me to fine tune the AFR curve.
I hope this helps...
#40
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Sandman's right. Adding an A/F gauge will help you see what's going on as you drive. You might want to install one, as it comes in handy anyway before you tear apart your engine. I have installed an Innovate and like to check it on long boost runs.
#41
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I understand what you are saying, but I would think that would be over kill to find a problem that I having with driving the car around a few blocks never going over 40 MPH or 3000 rpm. I have ran the CO up to a Eye watering 4.5 at idle and advanced the Timing to 29 Total @ 4000, Both of these together should cool down the headers. but it doen not.
Im going to start another thread with a Cam Timing Question.
Im going to start another thread with a Cam Timing Question.
#42
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Originally Posted by sand_man
Beyond your CO, which I assume you're setting and testing at idle, I'd be more concerned about what your actual AFR numbers are through the RPM range with a load on the engine. That's why I went with an Innovate tester. The biggest lesson I'm learning from the CIS game is the role the WUR plays. It does much more than I ever realized.
For example, my problem is that my AFRs are extremely RICH at high RPMs. So rich that I'm losing HP. In addition, I have been unable to tune this richness out with the mixture control screw. So I've had to order a CIS pressure tester which will allow me to measure what my WUR is doing regarding "cold", "warm", and "full throttle enrichment" pressures. These are all functions of the WUR. Once I have this data, Brian Leask can re-build an "adjustable" WUR for me that will even out (flatten) my AFRs through the RPM range. His WUR will also allow me to fine tune the AFR curve.
I hope this helps...
For example, my problem is that my AFRs are extremely RICH at high RPMs. So rich that I'm losing HP. In addition, I have been unable to tune this richness out with the mixture control screw. So I've had to order a CIS pressure tester which will allow me to measure what my WUR is doing regarding "cold", "warm", and "full throttle enrichment" pressures. These are all functions of the WUR. Once I have this data, Brian Leask can re-build an "adjustable" WUR for me that will even out (flatten) my AFRs through the RPM range. His WUR will also allow me to fine tune the AFR curve.
I hope this helps...
#44
Rennlist Lifetime Member
I would trailer it to the dyno and one that steady states, roll it under the 3K since this still is an issue and see what the timing is as well as the AFRs. The Gunson could be off if not calibrated right. I would probably buy a wideband and call it a day. This will tell you real time what is going on and as cheap as they are it makes the most sense.
Also confirm the timing on the car wile rolling on the dyno. Something often overlooked.
Lastly, pull the injectors and inspect your release pressure and pattern
Also confirm the timing on the car wile rolling on the dyno. Something often overlooked.
Lastly, pull the injectors and inspect your release pressure and pattern
#45
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Thanks guys for sticking with me, I am calling the DYNO shop tomorrow with hopes of getting in for a session the next day or so.
ALSO, I will have a wideband on this car by the end of the week.
GUNSON FOR SALE<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< owned by a little old lady, only sniffed fumes on Sundays
ALSO, I will have a wideband on this car by the end of the week.
GUNSON FOR SALE<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< owned by a little old lady, only sniffed fumes on Sundays