125shifter

One MAP sensor for boost and one for atmospheric pressure. Geoffrey, has been helping me with the EFI setup so I'm relying on his expertise. I've also read just about every EFI book I can find and I've gone to the EFI101 course so I'm trying to cover all my bases.

I've been dreading the electrical side of the project since I'm a mechanical engineer and I just barely passed my electrical courses.

I've come to terms with the fact that the odds of everything working right off the bat are pretty slim, but I'm hoping for the best. I can live with an electrical glitch or two but if I have to take the engine apart again I don't think I'll be as composed as Don has been.

slownrusty

And I thought I was the only one....LOL...I'm in the same boat as you buddy...getting ready to wire up my old Datsun Z with a Haltech...and I am dreading it too!

Yasin

PorschePhD

That is what I figured. I normally run the one for atmospheric pressure in the car. Doubt it makes any difference.

PorscheMD

I would have to agree, the fabrication is excellent!! very nice work!

Win Rice

Absolutely beautiful! My keyboard just lifted for for some reason

Just looking at everything shows that every piece was carefully planned and executed. Nice attention to detail!

2 years is a drop in the bucket compared to the enjoyment you'll get out of the finished project. I bet you can just taste it now?

Win

schnele

David, can't believe I missed this thread. Beautiful work man, kudos to you for your brilliant endeavor now get the engine in the car!

125shifter

Thanks for the encouragement. Like everything else on this project, I just keep waiting for that next little piece. Now I'm waiting for the right DMC crimp tool (the instrument dept at work needed one so they're buying it ) to build the harness. It's been back ordered until Wednesday.

BTW, I am putting the BAP sensor in the passenger compartment so I modified the MAP sensor bracket on the engine to hold just the MAP sensor in the horizontal position.

schnele

David, do you have a scale template for this intercooler you so artfully fabbed, will it fit the stock wing? Also where did you source the billet fuel rails, what fuel pressure regulator are you using?

125shifter

I've got cad drawings for the intercooler. If you PM your email address, I can send them in dwg or pdf format.

I had to cut a little off the tail sheetmetal at the back of the intercooler near the the inlet.

I bought the fuel rail stock from http://www.injector.com/

I'm using an edlebrock pressure regulator since it was small and black. I think I bought it from Summit

schnele

let's keep the pressure on David, final push.

Geoffrey

I'm in agreement with Stephen that I always install the barometric pressure sensor in the passenger compartment. I don't know if there is a difference in the engine compartment when moving at speed with respect to air entering and exiting changin the pressure.

Remeber that air density is based on 2.7*Pressure/Temperature so if the air pressure goes down, the density also goes down and therefore the mass of the incomming air will be less and the less fuel will be required.

With MoTeC you have the ability to use a MAP sensor to measure the actual barometric pressure and then have the software compensate for it. This sensor is a special 108kPa sensor from GM which differs from the standard GM 1bar MAP sensor. By installing and using it for compensation, the engine will maintain the same AFRs whether you are running at sea level (101.3kPa) or in Denver at (80kPa) as well as identifying the ignition timing load properly so too much ignition timing is not applied at the lower kPa ranges but at a higher load based on the pressure ratio. It also accomodates for weather pressure on various days. Again, it is these little things that makes MoTeC more stable than other ECUs and it does make a noticable difference in overall engine running.

When I still had my turbo car I took a trip into the White Mountains near my inlaws summer home and it maintained the same AFRs as when I was home near sea level so I KNOW it works. I also zeroed out the compensation and the engine ran significantly richer.

With respect to the wiring, it really isn't that bad as long as you prepare the proper documentation so you can go back and identify any issues at a later date. Here is a thread with pictures about wiring harnesses I did when building my race car which has a highly sophisticated wire harness and several devices connected with a CAN bus.

Racecar Project Wiring Harness Thread
Another Wire Harness Thread

DonE

I think you'll be just fine with the wiring. My advice would be to lay it all out to organize yourself, buy the correct crimpers, have plenty of extra terminals, get a good terminal removal tool, and triple check each crimp (and NO soldering). I also checked each wire for continuity and resistance. This took a little longer, but I have no problems with wiring.

Great job

JBL930

Beautiful looking engine David, i bet it'll go like stink!! Will you fab a bracket for the muffler or will it just hang off the turbo like that?

125shifter

This weekend I fabbed the ECU harness to the engine bulk head connecter and the engine harness to the connector. I still need to fab the harness to the front of the car and the CDI harness, but I'm missing some switches and connectors. I also bleed the brakes and test fit the breather tank I had made last week; it needs the breather port on the top moved.

JBL930, I fabbed a bracket for the muffler that mounts on the A/C bracket.

Don, you're right about the terminals and crimper! The DTM connectors are really cool, definintely worth the cost if you can buy or borrow the crimper. The other crimpers for the AMP and weather tight type connectors are almost a three hand affair.

im4duke (maxx), it was nice to have you visit the other day. The visit from you and a conversation with schnele got me motivated to make some progress. I'm still short a few parts, but the end is in sight (if it runs ).

schnele

Hello David, where are you planning to mount your CDI?