How to free stuck piston squirter?
#1
Racer
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Up North
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How to free stuck piston squirter?
The piston squirter in cylinder #1 of my case is stuck. I have emptied 2 bottles of brake cleaner and lots of carbuerator cleaners in thru the bearing hole, and have blast air to it with my compressor.
Still doesn't seem to spray - other squirters will spray nice pattern if I simply spray brake fluid thru the bearing side hole. This particular one, only time I see anything blows out is with the compressor @ 110psi blowing out the remaining fluid that was in the passage.
I even tried using a needle to poke at it from both sides.
So, what else can I do to free it?
thanks...
Still doesn't seem to spray - other squirters will spray nice pattern if I simply spray brake fluid thru the bearing side hole. This particular one, only time I see anything blows out is with the compressor @ 110psi blowing out the remaining fluid that was in the passage.
I even tried using a needle to poke at it from both sides.
So, what else can I do to free it?
thanks...
#5
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The squirters are held in by the peening over of the top of the hole, so to remove simply run a reamer down the top of the hole and then apply pressure from underneath in the same way that you are testing them. Cannot recall the exact hole size, but its around 5mm from memory. Be sure not to open the hole up any larger since you will have to peen the edge of it again when the new squirter is fitted.
Also be sure to order the correct size as Porsche changed the diameter of the squirters between the 930/964/993 model engines.
Also be sure to order the correct size as Porsche changed the diameter of the squirters between the 930/964/993 model engines.
#6
Drifting
I like to do as much as I can by myself (DIY), but I'm thinking this is one I'd let a reputable shop handle. I went ahead and had Peformance Developments do all of the oil gallies and cam spray bars while they had my engine. All the plugs were drilled out, the passages cleaned and new plugs fitted. The squirters were also handled at this time...cleaned and tested. I know that I could have done the cam spray bars myself (I know that's not what you're asking about)...I just didn't see the point. Who knows, maybe you'll get the right info here or on Pelican (are you "hobieboy") and you'll be able to tackle it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=268442
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=268442
#7
Rennlist Member
I asked what year your car is because the earlier cars seem to have more trouble, owing to the kind of case sealers used in the 70s.
There is a procedure that someone has posted either here or on Pelican. Do a "splash valve" or "squirter" search, and it should turn up. They are held in by a Loctite adhesive, as well as the peening. You have to heat up the splash valve area to soften the adhesive.
I replace one in my crankcase. I found that it was not too hard to remove, after drilling with a 5mm drill, threading in a tap, and yanking. However, the valves are very soft aluminum, and I found it hard to keep from deforming it when I was tapping it into place. My local machinist made a tool to engage the top of the splash valve, to drive it home without deformation. Also, a dulled chisel will reproduce the factory peening pretty well.
There is a procedure that someone has posted either here or on Pelican. Do a "splash valve" or "squirter" search, and it should turn up. They are held in by a Loctite adhesive, as well as the peening. You have to heat up the splash valve area to soften the adhesive.
I replace one in my crankcase. I found that it was not too hard to remove, after drilling with a 5mm drill, threading in a tap, and yanking. However, the valves are very soft aluminum, and I found it hard to keep from deforming it when I was tapping it into place. My local machinist made a tool to engage the top of the splash valve, to drive it home without deformation. Also, a dulled chisel will reproduce the factory peening pretty well.