Tom F

I still owe this thread a couple of photos of the interference problem with the sump, which I hope to put up tonight.

In the meantime, I would say that I think Kevin speaks wisely about milling the K27-7200. There seem to be two schools of thought - mill the outlet side of the hot housing by approx. 9.5 mm (to produce an overall hot housing width of 61 mm) is one school, cut and reweld the bracket is the other. The thread depth on the K27-7200, as I measure it, is a mere 20 mm, so cutting 9.5 mm off the face leaves just 10.5 mm of thread, probably not enough. Plus the cut leaves the turbine end of the shaft sticking out of the housing, which doesn't seem convenient if you're taking the muffler off with the engine installed.

Any further thoughts here? This is a job I want to do once. Thanks for the comments, so far.

Tom F

Took me a while, but here are the pictures of the turbo sump. The flange to mount the turbo is too close to the sump (pushes against the cylindrical section), and too far from the flange on the sump. The collector "j pipe" looks good - I compared it to one that was working fine. Anyone ever heat one of the collector pipes, and bend it? That's what I'll probably try next, but I don't like it, because the collector pipe is obviously a precisely made piece of hardware.

Thanks to all who have offered suggestions.

nathanUK '81 930 G50

I suppose really it would be better to change the headers for GHL or B&B and use their drip tank that comes with the fitting kit. You are going to get alot more performace using new shorter headers.

I found it very hard to remove my K26 due to that stock drip tank, they really are a PITA. I suppose I could have ripped/cut it out but I kept all my stock parts so they can be refitted if needed.

Tom F

I am posting a couple more photos to show the problem I'm having with the collector "j" pipe. These show the pipe from top and bottom. Any feedback as to whether this looks right or wrong would be appreciated. I'd like to get a similar shot of someone else's engine (with a good "j" pipe) before I start heating and bending.

Kevin

Is your engine oil line causing the problem? Is it crowding the sump tank?

Tom F

Kevin,

It's not clear in the photos, but the sump tank is not touching the engine oil line. Here are a couple of shots to show how the turbo mounting flange is off. The turbo sump is mounted in two clamps on the factory bracket that bolts to the two rear lower studs on the crankcase.

Kevin

It does look like your collector is over a bit.. Because the turbo appears to be clocked correctly..

BTW, the engine build looks good.. Very factory and very clean..

Tom F

Any advice on heating and bending the collector pipe? I believe that it is some form of stainless steel. I am comfortable heating and bending the mild steel used in traditional exhausts, but this collector pipe feels different, to me. Do I simply heat a section to cherry red and apply force?

Kevin, the reason why the sump tank looks a little akimbo is that the line to the pump is a little back, which twists the sump a small amount in the clamps. But, it is not the cause of the interference with the collector pipe that I'm experiencing.

Kevin

A suggestion is to loosen up the main collector where they are joined at the flywheel. Install the turbocharger and get you clearance that is needed. You might need to put a wood shim between components. Heat the rear components and then start to tighten the bolts up. The metal will expand and adjust to the new position..

A930Rocket

You might be able to heat it up and reshape it, but....

I was going to suggest if the flanges were parallel to cut the tube at the tank, shorten it enough to where the bolt holes match up, then weld it back on the tank.

125shifter

Here's my solution for a bracket for my K27HF2. The bracket will mount on the exhaust flange and bolt to the motor console.

Kevin

David you've got to much time on your hands during lunch... (smile)

125shifter

I'm lucky that my boss' boss is my racing partner, so I'm given a little leway when it comes to making car parts.