sand_man

I feel really overwhelmed when looking at all the possibilities out there for various stainless hoses and fittings. I don't even know where to start! There are a couple of oil lines that I'd like to replace. I'm traveling right now so I don't have a picture (I'll post one when I return), but I'd like to replace the oil feed line to the turbo. I just don't know how to order the hose: what type of fittings, diameter, etc. Also, my waste gate line (not the vent but the connection to the IC) is shot (it's full of oil). I know 'rusty replaced his, but I'm not sure about the hose details. Can you guys help? I mean do you order the hose and fittings separately and assemble yourself, or do you spec it at the time of order and it comes ready to install? Sorry about the neophyte questions, I'm clueless about this subject (amongst other things). While we're at it, what is Aeroquip? Is it a protective covering, or an actual hose?

Thanks,
Jeff

kens911

aeroquip makes aircraft grade hosses evrything from fractions of and inch to 8inch and probably larger hoses

sand_man

Interesting, the company that I work for, Eaton, owns Aeroquip!

Kevin

I suggest that you replace the factory line with a factory piece. You can install it and forget about it. It has the correct fittings, and support brackets..

DonE

Or, you can go to your local hose and fitting company and show them what you need. I had some great SS stuff made that fits perfectly. For example, the turbo oil feed line (AN -6) cost me $55. The oil scavange line (AN -10) cost me $65. My assorted fuel lines cost me less than $100. Everythig I got is all stainless, all crimped ends, all guaranteed and exactly what I needed. However, this took me about 4 or 5 trips to get everything right (fittings, length, diameter, etc). Another option....

JBH

Kevin: While I agree with your recommendation, that is definately an expensive route. OEM rubber hoses are outragously expensive.

If you go aftermarket, make sure you know the internal diameter of the OEM hoses so you can match.

nathanUK '81 930 G50

I removed my oil hoses from the car and had them rebuilt at a hose specialist using new rubber hose and crimps.
I was concerned that if the new hoses were braided that they would rub against other things and wear them away, especially near the HT leads.
What I had done was really cheap and looks great IMO.

slownrusty

Sandy - It took me quite some time to figure out out thread sizes and adapters and the best line size to select and then it takes time \ care to actually build the hoses.

I will not be able to pass what I learnt in the body of this reply, but if I can learn you can do it buddy.

I built a full race engine a years back and converted everything to Earls \ Aeroquip braided lines and hose ends \ fittings it cost me over $1500 just for them alone!

First of all GET an Earls or Aeroquip catalog, they have great reference pages on hose sizing...e.g No.10 or No. 8 hose for oil....No.6 for fuel etc etc.

Then get a gauge for measuring thread pitch, it looks similar to a feeler gauge with blades built in it for different pitches. That way you can check and see if there is an equivalent Metric fitting made by Earls, Aeroquip, Russel, etc etc.

I would NEVER go back to the rubber hoses etc etc from the factory...not after you see the quality of the Braided lines with the aluminum ends. Luckily you can get adapters to mate to an Earls, Aeroquip hose end...which is what I did for the oil scavenge pump to the accumulator on my 930.

Making the hoses is tricky and be prepared to bleed like a stuck pig..get the aluminum jaws for your vice and aluminum wrenches for assembly is recomended as the aluminum and the beautiful blue or red coatings get damaged VERY easily or use lots of tape over them and be very careful. A guy on Pelican Parts just finished Megasquirting his 911 SC and he talked about how much he bled building his own braided steel lines for the first time.

Hope that helps..good luck!


Yasin

Geoffrey

I can't stand the braided steel lines, they ruin anything they touch. I have begun to use Aeroquip startlite hose which is a fabric braided hose that can be used with the reusable hose ends is much nicer with similar pressure specifications. It is 2x the cost of the braided steel lines. I also have been using aluminum line with flared ends since it is MUCH lighter than either of the above. In my racecar project, I used the factory lines where available since the routing and clamping has already been engineered by the factory.

slownrusty

Geoffery - Yes the braided lines can rub and ruin something they are in contact with, but I have some neat aluminum separators to avoid contact. Never tried the Startlite - but will check it out. Factory clamping \ location is cool - I agree, but I have never had trouble making or fabricating clamps to follow the factory route.

Yasin

Geoffrey

Yes, you can make your own mountings, that isn't a big deal. The other nice thing about AN fittings is you can use dry breaks. On my racecar I have a Staubli dry break for the clutch, some dry breaks on the transmission for the trans cooling lines and am considering using dry breaks for the engine oil lines to and from the tank/thermostat.

Here are a few pictures of the hard line I've been using (-6an for the air jacks) and -8 startlite flexible hose for the fuel tank venting.

DonE

I use the nylon-lined steel strap mounts for mine. Otherwise there would be damage from loose, vibrating SS lines everywhere.

125shifter

I found the easiest way to get the braided lines into to the aluminum ends is to dip them in motor oil. Then just use a screwdriver or similar to tuck in the stray the stainless wires.

Geoffrey

The best way to get a clean end so you don't have to use a screw driver is to wrap the hose where you want to cut it with masking or duct tape and use an air cut off wheel on the hose. Obviously you clean it well afterwords.

125shifter

I do that too, but there always seems to be a few wires that get away.