"While You're In There..."
#32
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Originally Posted by DonE
Advancing the iginition early is a benefit to spooling the turbo as quickly as possible, but once its up to speed, back off the advance to the provide optimal combustion (10 - 12 degrees ATDC if I remember correctly). In this scenario, boost is the key ingredient or killer (heat generator).
Do you have a pictoral representation of your ignition curve? I have an Electromotive Twin Plug setup and I 'm running 0 degress at idle with it retarded to 26 degrees at WOT.
Any recommendations?
BTW, I'm using WebCams(SC grind), Kokeln IC, B&B headers, k-27(7006) turbo
Thanks
Dave
'85 Factory Slantnose 930
#33
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by nathanUK '81 930 G50
DonE,
Yep, I can see that now, thanks.
As for advancing ignition early on, can this be done with stock dizzys ? My car has the two tube dizzy.
Yep, I can see that now, thanks.
As for advancing ignition early on, can this be done with stock dizzys ? My car has the two tube dizzy.
For more precise info, you should talk to a pro like Stephen or Clewett.
#34
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by WERK-I
Hi Don,
Do you have a pictoral representation of your ignition curve? I have an Electromotive Twin Plug setup and I 'm running 0 degress at idle with it retarded to 26 degrees at WOT.
Any recommendations?
BTW, I'm using WebCams(SC grind), Kokeln IC, B&B headers, k-27(7006) turbo
Thanks
Dave
'85 Factory Slantnose 930
Do you have a pictoral representation of your ignition curve? I have an Electromotive Twin Plug setup and I 'm running 0 degress at idle with it retarded to 26 degrees at WOT.
Any recommendations?
BTW, I'm using WebCams(SC grind), Kokeln IC, B&B headers, k-27(7006) turbo
Thanks
Dave
'85 Factory Slantnose 930
#35
Drifting
Thread Starter
Meet Mr. Oily
Hi guys...say "hello" to my little friend, Mr. Oily. Mr. Oily, please say "hello" to the gang. As you can see, Mr. Oily isn't feeling well - probably the result of a small, Mac Tools ball peene hammer that I threatened to beat him with should he ever decide to cause me this much trouble again! It's hard to believe from these pictures, but Mr. Oily only has 42,000 miles! He evidentally prefered the quiet solitude of the climate/humidity controlled garage from where he once hailed. He'd forgotten that a team of world class engineers and the skilled hands of dedicated craftsman actually built him for a purpose...TO BE F_CKING DRIVEN!!!!!!!!!!! And as such he took a DUMP leaving countless, friends, family, and co-workers saying "I told you so". But all that's about to change...ain't that right Mr Biscuits...err I mean Mr. Oily (I gets confused some times).
Last edited by sand_man; 12-02-2005 at 06:48 AM.
#37
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Originally Posted by DonE
If you want to send me your bin file, I can give you my opinion based on your map and how mine is set up. This is tricky stuff to do it right, and safely. To answer your question, I can provide you a copy of the ignition map as a graph.
Thanks for replying. Wish I could send you a bin file, my car is hibernating and my laptop is on the fritz....
A graphical representation is fine. Thanks in advance.
Sand_man,
I don't think that is blow-by. More than likely the result of an oil leak somewhere atop the engine..... turbo oil feed line?
Dave
'85 Factory Slantnose 930
#38
Drifting
Thread Starter
Could be...but actually look down into the port...it looks burned compared to the others. Also, there really wasn't much oil on the fan shroud which is actually under the turbo oil line.
#39
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sand_man,
I see that. If #2 intake gasket was not sealing, would that cause that type of condition? Also, you'll have to look at #2 intake guide and the valve seat to see if there's a problem there. Cracked valve/valve seat or worn valve guide could cause something like that.
Dave
'85 Factory Slantnose 930
I see that. If #2 intake gasket was not sealing, would that cause that type of condition? Also, you'll have to look at #2 intake guide and the valve seat to see if there's a problem there. Cracked valve/valve seat or worn valve guide could cause something like that.
Dave
'85 Factory Slantnose 930
#41
Drifting
Thread Starter
Which would you pick: Electromotive XDi twin plug ignition or fully finned cylinders? I'm already planning to have the heads twin plugged. Quite frankly setting the timing on these engines with the orginal vacuum advance/retard distrubutors scares me. Seems like one VERY weak link that I should lose! The finned cylinders would be nice, but maybe it's not that big of a deal. I think Stephen sells the XDi stuff for about $1,600. Might be a wise investment.
#42
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Depends what boost levels you are targeting. If you are modding the engine, I would build from the inside out. Pistons, cylinders, cams, etc. added first and then add the peripherals, ignition, injection mods. If you are twin-plugging, sounds like you'll be adding some boost beyond .7bar? Fins are nice insurance.
Dave
'85 Factory Slantnose 930
Dave
'85 Factory Slantnose 930
#43
Drifting
Thread Starter
My fear is that I'm building a very solid engine (inside out) that will once again be destroyed by some timing and/or fueling issue. For instance I'd love the IA EFI upgrade not to gain more HP, but for the reliability aspects of it. I'm not even planning on running a 1 BAR spring. Honestly, my demmands are DEPENDABILITY. I'm thinking the XDi might help with that. I was just wondering how critical the finned cylinders are.
#44
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Well, in that case......
Twinplug it, XDi the ignition, extrude hone the intake so the runners are within 5% of each other, balance flow the injectors. You'll have an extremely sorted out engine package.
BTW, get the larger pickup sensor for the crank. They are more reliable than the smaller pickups. Only a few bucks extra.
Dave
'85 Factory Slantnose 930
Twinplug it, XDi the ignition, extrude hone the intake so the runners are within 5% of each other, balance flow the injectors. You'll have an extremely sorted out engine package.
BTW, get the larger pickup sensor for the crank. They are more reliable than the smaller pickups. Only a few bucks extra.
Dave
'85 Factory Slantnose 930