I got my Wevo Semi-Solid engine mounts yesterday and ran into some troubles removing the old mounts. I was careful not to put too much pressure on my breaker bar as I attempted to loosen the bolts. I could see that the crossmember was actually flexing as I applied torque. I didn't want to break anything and I heard that this could be a problem...it pays to research. Anyway what are your thoughts on me taking my car over to the tire shop behind my office and having them hit the bolts with an air impact gun? I think this impact motion is what the stuck bolts need. I can't really get in there to apply heat and I'm not sure the PB Parts Blaster is getting in there? It's a tight place. I just don't want to break anything! What about one of those impact drivers...the kind you hit with a hammer? I wonder if that would bend the body pieces though (what the mounts are attached to). Please...any help would be a appreciated. I just don't want to break the member or one shear off a bolt head.

 

Are you removing the mounts themselves, or the 2 19mm bolts that actually hold the engine in?

Typically, they are torqued to something like 60 ft/lbs, but alot of shops actually use an impact wrench when they put the engine back in?

Instead of babbling on, are you referring to the bolts that hold the engine mount itself in, or the 19mm bolts that go through the engine mounts on the chassis and connect the body of the car to the engine mount bar that is on the engine?

Brian

 

The 19mm bolts that attach to the crossmember (inside the engine compartment). The large bolt in the center of the mount. When I apply torque to it (for removal) the cross member flexes before the bolt breaks loose! I just wonder if the impact gun will loosen it right up or if it will break the bolt head off leaving the bolt stem in the crossmember.

 

Impact wrench will definitely snap it loose. It shouldn't break the bolt. Wouldn't hurt to hit it with some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench though I guess.

My mechanic always used an impact wrench (which I hated) to put those those bolts in. I take a much slower, and systematic approach with a torque wrench to accomplish the task I guess...

Brian

 

Can you not get to it at all? Are you using a 1/2'' ratchet or breaker bar with an 6'' or 12'' extension and maybe a universal? That's what I'd try (if I didn't have my impact).

 

Oh I can get to it fine...the 19mm bolt in the center of the mount will just not let go. Instead the end of the engine mount cross beam begins to flex. I plan to head over to the tire shop and have them his it with an impct gun.

 

Sand Man do yourself a favor and buy an impact gun and some good quality 1/2" sockets. You will never look back...I kiss my impact gun everyday...I really do!

Yasin

 

Obviously, just let him break it free. Maybe run it in and out a little, but don't don't let him back it all the way out. It's not always easy to just screw it back it, not to mention that side will drop.

 

I haven't had much luck with impact guns on these bolts. Heat has worked for me. You don't need a lot of heat - i.e., you don't need to heat it up so much that you would hurt the mounts.

 

My tried and true two stage compressor that I've had for MANY years finally died this past year! I miss it dearly! I've been spending my cash on car parts and other tools. I've got a replacement in the budget for next year.

 

The thing about heat is that these are the engine mounts inside the engine compartment. The only thing I can really reach are the bolt heads. I can't really get to the part of the cross member that the bolt threads into. This is where I think the heat would be best applied...to the cross member ends. I had a camping trip with my son this past weekend so I didn't want to mess with it. I must admit that the 930 makes the ultimate camp mobile! HAHAHAHA! If you pack creatively it's amazing what you can fit!

 

Another thought - did you support the engine while you try to loosen the bolts?
Don't think it matters till it breaks loose, but its simple to do & might just release that tiny bit of tension that is enough for you to break it free.

 

The engine was deffinately supported...thanks though!

 

I removed the rearmost piece of engine sheet metal - the one that goes across the back of the engine bay, first. Then, I could reach the ends of the rear engine support from below with the torch. I had to remove some other stuff to get out the sheet metal piece, but I can't remember exactly what. My memory is that it was fairly intuitive.

 

I just got back from the tire shop...the shop wrench hit the bolts with a 500 foot pound impact wrench for about 15 minutes and the 19mm bolts didn't budge!!!!!!!! We even supported the engine to take as much load off as we could. So I can either order a new crossmember and plan to break this one, or I can try some heat or applying some more PB Parts Blaster...I just didn't want to get into removing a lot of parts to get to these things! Funny, with these cars, repairs are either very straight forward, or a total nightmare!

My next question is: if I do break the crossmember ends, is there enough room to guide the member out of the car without removing the engine?