Mobile vs Redline vs Royal Purple Oil
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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Guys I know this have been covered somewhat, I dont want to discuss in great lenghts as I am going to change my oil in the next few days.... so I am using mobile 1 15w-40 now and considering Royal Purple 15w-40 or Redline 15w-50
anyone have any experiences with these?
My main thought is that RP claim better engine protection and longer service intervals with the oil change and added horsepower (pinch of salt!)
anyone have any experiences with these?
My main thought is that RP claim better engine protection and longer service intervals with the oil change and added horsepower (pinch of salt!)
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#2
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I use Castrol Syntec 5w-50w in all my engines, regardless if it's are air cooled or water cooled. Syntec has helped make John Force the most winningest driver in motrosports. I've used Mobil 1 in the past and have experienced excessive weeping/oil leaks and oil burning associated with synthetics. Never used Redline because of the price.
#3
Drifting
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When I bought my 930 a few months ago, I had plans to switch to Mobile 1 synthetic, but every oil change the car has ever had has been with Castrol 20W-50 GTX (dino). Most techs have just advised me to keep on with the old stuff and just change it every 3,000. I plan to do my first oil change this week on it (it had just been changed before I purchased it) and unless someone here gives me reason not to, it will be with the non-synthetic 20W-50 Castrol.
#5
Drifting
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Originally Posted by BrianKeithSmith
I stick with my good old fashioned Kendall GT1 20w50.
Brian
Brian
#6
Drifting
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Originally Posted by sand_man
I thought about the Kendall (heard good things about it), but I read some where that the companyy was either purchased or the formula was changed (or both). Not sure how valid that is. Some times I think too much stink is made over freaking oil!
#7
Burning Brakes
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Im interested in the that redline and royal say the service interval is doubled as the oil is so good- they both state that and royal claims HP gains... im willing to try it but not too sure on doubling my oil change interval -
I read on redline website you can see if you oil needs to be changed or not just by having a look at the dipstick (texture and colour vs new oil)... common sense thing I guess but an important one to look for rather than the normal 3k... as people drive differently... so that is what im going to look out for as the miles run up.
I read on redline website you can see if you oil needs to be changed or not just by having a look at the dipstick (texture and colour vs new oil)... common sense thing I guess but an important one to look for rather than the normal 3k... as people drive differently... so that is what im going to look out for as the miles run up.
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#8
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I've been told on un-refreshed 930s, use the dino 20-50. I use Castrol; no problems.
but, in the old days (see signature block), I used to use a product called Hi-Rev every 12k miles. it's like a oil flush... supposed to 'dissolve sludge' and other 'nasty deposits'. add it to your oil before a change, drive it around, up to temp, and pumping through your system. then drain and replace oil-filter. it was always black as night. even dirtier than a straight oil change. it must have been working.
in our cars, perhaps this would also help flush out the cooler, t-stat and pump. what do your think?
anyone use it now?
but, in the old days (see signature block), I used to use a product called Hi-Rev every 12k miles. it's like a oil flush... supposed to 'dissolve sludge' and other 'nasty deposits'. add it to your oil before a change, drive it around, up to temp, and pumping through your system. then drain and replace oil-filter. it was always black as night. even dirtier than a straight oil change. it must have been working.
in our cars, perhaps this would also help flush out the cooler, t-stat and pump. what do your think?
anyone use it now?
#9
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redline redline ...... used redline in a leaking 76 turbo for 7 years stoped leaking and ran very strong. next car was a 86 turbo used redline for 10 years my tec took the motor apart just fo drill at 54 k cleanest i have ever seen,,,, bought an 01 a year ago red lined it 1st thing .... oh use the stuff on chev vans never change oil just ad 180 k no probs...165.... and 132 on the third the stuff really works steve
#10
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Miles - I know this does not answer your question...but I would have to side with SandMan and Gino..Gastrol GTX is the way to go. It is by far the best traditional dino oil, with some of the modern detergents Castrol adds it is the best.
I change my oil VERY regularly actually once it changes from the "honey" color, I change it. So usually every 1500miles or so. With GTX and a filter so cheap...why scrimp? Fresh oil = a happy engine.
I have an old turbo Datsun Z with just under 150,000miles and I still run GTX in it. Trust me the car is quick....not much slower than my 930.
Yasin
I change my oil VERY regularly actually once it changes from the "honey" color, I change it. So usually every 1500miles or so. With GTX and a filter so cheap...why scrimp? Fresh oil = a happy engine.
I have an old turbo Datsun Z with just under 150,000miles and I still run GTX in it. Trust me the car is quick....not much slower than my 930.
Yasin
#11
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Ok so I had to chime in here as well.
Striclty Mobil One 15-50 full synthetic, renewed every 5000 miles with a new factory Porsche oil filter. I can't put anything else in one of my Porsche motors unless it's about to get a full rebuild... The 930 has about 12,000 miles on it since it's fresh rebuild and loves every drop. This is the same stuff Porsche uses in their race cars, not to mention in every street car since the 964...
I just bought a 951 with 160K on the clock and I'm planning on nothing but the same. I've tried Royal Purple and AMSOIL and one other brand that was supposed to be the *****.(Redline) Each time I returned to the 15-50. Now if you really want the best stuff possible for an air cooled turbocharged Porsche motor without a catalytic converter thatn head on down to the local superbike shops and pick up a quart of 20-50 Mobil One full synthetic motorcycle racing oil. It has zinc/lead additives to lubricate the valvetrain and minimize wear. It's about $8.00 a quart but it's the secret stuff used in alot of serious race cars...
E-man930
Striclty Mobil One 15-50 full synthetic, renewed every 5000 miles with a new factory Porsche oil filter. I can't put anything else in one of my Porsche motors unless it's about to get a full rebuild... The 930 has about 12,000 miles on it since it's fresh rebuild and loves every drop. This is the same stuff Porsche uses in their race cars, not to mention in every street car since the 964...
I just bought a 951 with 160K on the clock and I'm planning on nothing but the same. I've tried Royal Purple and AMSOIL and one other brand that was supposed to be the *****.(Redline) Each time I returned to the 15-50. Now if you really want the best stuff possible for an air cooled turbocharged Porsche motor without a catalytic converter thatn head on down to the local superbike shops and pick up a quart of 20-50 Mobil One full synthetic motorcycle racing oil. It has zinc/lead additives to lubricate the valvetrain and minimize wear. It's about $8.00 a quart but it's the secret stuff used in alot of serious race cars...
E-man930
#12
Burning Brakes
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Great info guys but it seems everyone has there own opions so no clear winner yet. I see the arguments for sticking to Mobile 1 as Porsche use it on everything but dont they have some deal with Mobile to always use it? Surely they do as they are big customers!
I think im so far going to try Royal Purple 15w-40 for a few sessions and see what happens....
I think im so far going to try Royal Purple 15w-40 for a few sessions and see what happens....
#14
Drifting
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I also don't buy the horse power increase claims with oil!!! Again...too much stink is made out of oil! Your best bet is to use common sense, change the shiz regularly with a new filter!
Last edited by sand_man; 09-14-2005 at 11:02 AM.