Identify my K27
06-08-2005, 10:30 PM
#2
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Take a picture of the tag for me. Also notice the marks on the compressor wheel and the nicks in the inlet. That is FOD from something going in the turbo.
06-09-2005, 11:23 PM
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You have a K27-3070GD11.11 or what we call a 5327 970 7006
For short we call that a 7006...
If you can, save your pennies and buy a 7200... Night and day difference..
For short we call that a 7006...
If you can, save your pennies and buy a 7200... Night and day difference..
06-09-2005, 11:40 PM
#6
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Thanks Kevin. That's what I suspected, based on the car's history and info in the receipts. It turns out I already spent my pennies on a new HFS, which should be in my hands Monday. The car the 7006 came off of, and the HFS is going on to, produced the dyno graph below. Could the 7006 account for the drop off after ~5000?
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06-10-2005, 01:07 AM
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Kevin, I have a 7006 also and will be changing it out soon but I have a question that makes me feel like a turbo newbie. I'm currently running .9-1 bar, when you say"runs out of air" would this be indicated on my boost gauge by a drop from .9-1 at higher rpm? Perhaps it's tough to see but on my clock-replacement boost gauge it doesn't seem to drop off. What am I missing? It would be interesting to see a boost pressure plotted on a dyno graph. Thanks.
06-10-2005, 01:29 AM
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Mike, there are actually two major points that we need to address..
First and more importantly the efficiency of the compressor wheel. Basically one must realize that there is a sweet spot that every wheel operates in. You can think of it as the classic island, but when the OEM test these wheels it's actually plotted on a graph.. Lets say that you pick a 75% efficient wheel to the left side of the the wheel the air stalls, to the right side we have a situation that the turbine is spinning the compressor faster without any "good" results.. It has lost it's ability to generate enough air.. to satify the increasing RPM at LOAD..
When the wheel is driven past the right side of the island alot of excess heat is generated. This taxes your intercooler.. In the past many people would just get a larger intercooler.. One has to upgrade to a higher efficiency compressor wheel, that will operate within a larger island and higher shaft RPM..
So you will have boost, but your torque suffers due to the fact that there isn't enough air in volume or quantity (not pressure) to sustain you engines demand..
First and more importantly the efficiency of the compressor wheel. Basically one must realize that there is a sweet spot that every wheel operates in. You can think of it as the classic island, but when the OEM test these wheels it's actually plotted on a graph.. Lets say that you pick a 75% efficient wheel to the left side of the the wheel the air stalls, to the right side we have a situation that the turbine is spinning the compressor faster without any "good" results.. It has lost it's ability to generate enough air.. to satify the increasing RPM at LOAD..
When the wheel is driven past the right side of the island alot of excess heat is generated. This taxes your intercooler.. In the past many people would just get a larger intercooler.. One has to upgrade to a higher efficiency compressor wheel, that will operate within a larger island and higher shaft RPM..
So you will have boost, but your torque suffers due to the fact that there isn't enough air in volume or quantity (not pressure) to sustain you engines demand..
