now that my surging/ stumbling has been diagnosed and corrected w/ wire set, I'm on to the post Thanksgiving K27 install . I've searched and researched on-line, but still haven't really found the most convenient way to go forward. I'm just swapping out turbos and re-installing the stock cat/muf (for now).

I've obtained all the necessary gaskets, nuts, bolts and studs just in case, as my world acts according to Mr. Murphy's laws!!.

Would it be best to
1.) not bother trying loosen and remove the old, just cut off the bolts on the 3LDZ exhaust input side and drop the whole load (turbo, cat and muffler)? I assume it will be much easier to get at the turbo-cat connection this way, or
2.) loosen the cat-muf connection, obtain clearance to loosen-remove turbo-cat connection and drop that section (cat and muffler), then remove the old turbo?
3.) would only removing the valance give me enough room to get at the required connections, or is total rear bumper removal called for?

Every connection is being soaked with Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster. I've got my fingers crossed for an uneventful weekend ...

 

Gino,
I just installed a K27 and you must remove the entire bumper. It is not very difficult. If you have the Bentely manual, it will show you how to do it. If you don't, email me and I will send you the instructions. You should use all new bolts and gaskets, so cutting them off is a lot quicker. I used a plasma cutter to get to the rear exhaust bolts but it can be done other ways. Be sure and leave ALL bolts and nuts loose until everything is installed. Sometimes that last mm is all you need to make it fit.

Good luck,

Rudy

 

Got the Bentley Book and the 930 Workshop on CD (sorry, forget I mentioned that), and an article from Pelican. I'm getting a bit lazy in my ol.... never mind that. OK, I'll spray those bolts too. Don't have a plasma torch at my disposal, but I love that Dremmel thingee. It sure came in handy cutting off the flex oil connectors for the fan install on the cooler last summer. I agree, replace those bolts and such and cut away.
I'll try to remember to take pictures and post.

 

Gino;

Make sure that you properly pre-lube the turbo and pull the fuel pump fuses, and turn the engine over prior to connecting up the sump tank.. This way you can see verify fresh oil passing through the turbocharger to purge out any air that has siphoned up the oil inlet line..

Edit.. Make sure that you spend 30-40 miles of no boost/low boost vs getting on it to allow the sealing rings to seat.. Also, try to prevent hot shutdowns..

 

Kevin-
thanks for further insight into post installation procedure. I do remember the Workshop manual stating the pre-lube, but good idea on the system purge. Also, I do plan to ease into it, especially since the K27 requires that adaptor in addition to the other 'air side' connections.

Rudy-
Got the bumper off without incident, although I'm wondering how to thread the stupid license plate lamps wires back into that location... I guess I'll 'snake it' with an electrical thingee.

The bolts are soaking anyway, I try that first before Dremmeling... any other super penetrants other than Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster?

What about the order of removal? I noticed a bracket between the turbo-cat. I guess I can not drop everything by going for the exhaust-turbo connection first (after disconnecting oil in-out, air-side plumbing). So, it looks like I need to do at a minimum the turbo-cat connection and drop the cat-muffler as one piece. Then do the bracket and exhaust-turbo connection.

Comments?

 

Gino, drop the cat and muffler.. then loosen up the header to turbo side.. I'd strongly recommend a cat bypass or aftermarket muffler. Turbochargers and turbo's hate backpressure..

 

Kevin-
that's the plan (but hold the cat-muf for next emission test), but... money is always a consideration when 2 are in college at the same time. I felt guilty enough just doing the K27. All in it's time, soon...

 

Gino,

You didn't have to take the bumper off but it sure is easier. As for the license plate wires they will feed back through easier than you think without fish line. The studs for the turbo can be eliminated with bolts instead, that is what I decided on for 2 reasons. It's one less thing that can get seized and makes taking the muffler on and off a little easier. Kevin is dead on about preping the turbo before starting the motor and break in. The first time changing turbo seems like a job but it's not too bad. If all possible get rid of the cat, these motors run hot and any additional heat you can get rid of is good.

 

Brent-
I was told by a '78-930 local (who's coming over for the install) that the bumper wasn't necessary either, but I thought it didn't look that difficult after reading the article from Pelican and would afford A LOT MORE room to work within (it will add another 45 minutes labor each way).

Not sure what you mean by "the studs for the turbo can be eliminated with bolts instead". Do you mean pull the studs out and just mate turbo to cat with a bolt into the turbo casing where the stud was? Do I need special heat-treated bolts, like the other exhaust flange required? What's the metric size for those?

 

I just eyeballed the 10x40 bolt from the other flange is to long. The stud is listed as a 10x35, and that looks like a better length. Is that the correct size?

 

Yes, I believe so.

 

Hey Gino- I'd recommend you keep your stock cat and muffler together for inspection time, but go this route in-between sniff tests: total outlay about $120 and a nice sound everywhere:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=183012

 

Ken-
Interesting... any sound bites you can post so I can hear what all the Pelican chat's about? How difficult is it to cut the bumper valence to accomodate the passenger-side outlet? Does it even need to be cut?

 

http://www.my930.com/

 

http://www.sunbrother.com/porsche/porsche930.htm