Newbie, purchased 1987 930 Turbo today. Turned key, started, took off trailer, parked in front of garage, turned off. 20 minutes later, started and pulled into garage, turned off. 30 minutes later, ATTEMPTED TO start and only CRANKED, could not get engine to START.
Came back and turned key to ON position: NO gauges work, windows do not work, no buzzer with door open. Turn key to start car, CRANKS but does not start.
1. I do NOT know if there is an engine demobilizer or alarm on car. There is a red after-market toggle switch to left of dashboard and window cut out that apparently had Escort radar detector gauge inserted into dashboard. I do NOT THINK this is "kill" switch or immobilizer switch at these are usually hidden. I did toggle that red switch back and forth.
2. Battery is 12.1V
3. Lights work, AC works when cranking, hazards work.

Questions: does stock 1987 930 Turbo have engine demobilizer/ kill switch?
ANY idea why I cannot get any gauges to work? If I recall 1/3 fuel in tank but since gauges do not work, cannot determine.

What I know is started right up off trailer. Started again to pull into garage. NOW only cranks, AND gauges to do not work, Windows do not work with KEY IN ON POSTION.

Sure I am missing something simple.

Advice?

 

Hi Newbie,

the described behavior can have a whole bunch of causes.

First, I would add a few gallons of fuel into the tank and charge or change the battery, 12.1 V is the lower limit. Check the connection of the ground cable to the body.
Also check the driver's manual for immobilizer, the late 930's had an alarm system as an option and the US cars probably had an immobilizer as well.
Regarding the instruments, let the engine crank and watch the oil pressure gauge, after about 20 sec the indicator should move.

To get closer to the issue two points should be checked:

- Ignition spark present? Pull the spark plug connector, insert an old spark plug and hold it against ground while cranking.

- Fuel pressure present? Unfortunately, it is difficult to access the fuel lines without removing at least the intercooler. It would be perfect if the system and the control pressure could be measured at the warm-up regulator. If necessary, loosen the inlet line at the fuel distributor a bit and see if fuel leaks out.

When both points have been ansered further measures can be taken.

Fritz

 

This makes no sense. NOW does NOT crank at all.
Overnight: I put charger on battery and holds at 12.8 V, put in 3 gallons of fuel just in case. Connection of ground cable appears good, not corroded.
I can now get windows to work when key is in ACC position. GAUGES and idiot lights still do not illuminate.

I did find, what appears to be a "keyed immobilizer" on inside of driver door and surely thought this would fix issue. I turned both CW and CCW and did not crank.
Does anyone know what position this should be in?

Battery is Jan 2019, think possibly a bad cell. Will take battery to auto part store to test and/or get new battery.

 

This should be the original alarm/anti theft system, there is a special key for this.

https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...ty-system.html

 

I do have the "special" key.
I inserted and turned both CW and CCW and still did not start.
Is this the vehicle immobilizer? If turned a certain way vehicle will NOT start?
Do you know what direction to turn to ALLOW anti-theft system to be OFF?
Thank you for replies fritz k.

 

Yes, if the system is activated the car wont start. As far as in know if the key is in hoizontal position the system is activated, in vertical position deactiveted.

If it doesnt work i would remove the door panel an follow the wiring to identify the alarm controller. should carry a BOSCH label.

 

One of the issues is IF the anti-theft is active, the horn and lights do not activate when alarm activates. Only issue is car not starting.
Based on research, believe the alarm module is in front trunk behind fresh air blower motor, that may have to be removed to access and jump pins to test, etc.

 

There was corrosion on Ground connectors, removed and cleaned.
I put meter on battery when cranking and went from 12.9 to 12.8V, figured would be larger drop. Did not crank.
I went under dashboard and verified all wires to ignition switch in place. Above Ignition Switch were two relays, one did not appear to be pushed in all the way. I pushed in.
GOT the 930 to Crank and START! Could have been loose connector or relay but I may order an ignition switch just in case. Thank you fritz k. for replying.