estrellajon

Has anyone accomplished lowering their 911's? How hard is it for a DIY?

sprbxr

Jon
Did you do OK registering your car?

Justin
80 930
91c2T

estrellajon

It went fine actually. Since it was registered before in the US, I did not have to go through any nightmares.

Jon

sprbxr

Excellent

A930Rocket

The front is easy to do with the adj screws at the end of the front torsion bars.

The rears have a little adjustment in the factory spring plates, but not much. An easier way is to use adjustable rear spring plates. This will also allow you to corner weight your car easier.

Now... as long as you are in there, you might want to replace bushing and/or torsion bars. Same for the front. th etorsion bar swap is a little more time consuming and difficult, but not impossible.

Several books detail this job.

estrellajon

Thanks rocket. does the front torsion bars go front to back or side to side. Sorry, not an expert on these cars yet, but learning.

SoCal Mike

estrellajon, check out the book "101 projects for your 911" by Wayne Dempsey of Pelican Parts. It covers alot of stuff that is applicable to 930's. The front torsion bars go front/back. How DIY it is depends on your mechanical experience. What type of car projects have you done? I would definitely suggest upgrading torsion bars at the very least while your in there. The stock are just too soft for this car and larger torsion bars will not drastically effect ride quality, but will dramatically enhance handling. Other than normal tools the only special thing you need is the slim wrench for the trailing arm adjustment($40). Let me know if I can be of help. It's easy to pay someone to do it but you learn so much more about your car doing it yourself.

estrellajon

Mike, I was just reading that book last night trying to figure how its adjusted. Seems like the front is easy but the rear takes a awhile. I also plan on the torsion bar upgrade. Is that slim wrench a special Porsche tool?

aus930

i lowered my 930 yesterday.
i also used 101 projects to do it.
it was very easy.i did by just adjusting the factory spring plates.i found more than i needed on the rear spring plates,in fact i could still go 1/2 inch lower if i wanted,but that was too low.

Larry T.

for some reason, my car was too high (vs. specs) in the front only. I lowered it using "101 projects." It's a pretty straight forward process. Just don't forget to have the car professionally aligned when your done.

SoCal Mike

I know that Pelican and Performance Products carry aftermarket versions of it. I'm sure some of our sponsors may as well. I never checked for a factory version but I'm sure it's pricey. My car was at factory "4x4" ride height when I bought it. Now there is some adjustment on our factory spring plates through the two bolts closest to the front of the spring plate arm at the bushing. One of these is eccentric. The problem is that the way the factory sets them up, you can only raise the car higher up! I originally lowered mine without replacing the torsion bars and its not too complicated. Jack up car and relieve torsion pressure on trailing arm/spring plate. Undo 4 bolts at the trailing arm. Undo 4 bolts at torsion bar cover. Pull cover out gently until you can rotate it one or two splines. You will need an angle finder(mine is a Johnson Magnetic Angle Locator, purchased at Home depot/Lowes)to check initial angles and final angle. You should make this measurement right after the springplate is disconnected from the trailing arm and use it as a reference as you move a few splines. Then reassemble and check height. It took me 4 hours and two trys to get mine right, which included checking stuff out and grinding a $50 wrench thin enough! Buy the proper wrench! You can do final adjustment with the eccentric. Then it's off to a good alignment shop familiar with 911's

estrellajon

I did my front adjustments today and it did lower it some, however it seemed that I have hit the maximum point at 26.5" at the front. I know some people can go lower than that. I was hoping around 25". Am I doing something wrong? I turned the bolt counterclockwise to lower both sides but the piece that connects to the torsion bar went all the way up.

SoCal Mike

Well it depends on what height you started at. There is limited adjustment here without resetting your torsion bars. Fender height can also be deceiving sometimes car to car so don't follow that 25" spec to much. The real question is, will you have enough adjustment to dial the camber (there's plenty of toe adjustment)back to spec. Your also going to increase your bumpsteer. The other question will be if your shock has that large spacing washer on it, I'm not sure what years those came on. Mine didn't come from the factory with it. The factory measures the height of the front suspension as the difference between the center of the wheel, and the height of the center of the torsion bar. US spec is 99mm +/- 5mm. Euro spec is 108mm. Check your height to these specs to see where you actually are right now.

estrellajon

Mike, I may have to reset my torsion bars them. How do I do that? Where is the shock spacer if it does have it?

SoCal Mike

Check out these two links. These will be a great resource:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...rsion_bars.htm

http://www.middleyear911.com/diy.html


The shock spacer/washer if you have one, is located on top of the shock before it is installed. Removal requires removal of the strut assembly. It was used on some US spec 911's to keep the shock in its proper range of motion at the high US ride height. I'm not sure whether yours would have it, but keep this in mind. If you change torsion bars you may want to replace your shocks anyway.