Advice on Getting a Late 80's G50
#16
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As stated youll pay a premium for a G50 car unless there is still a clueless owner left but I doubt it.
AS stated and owning an 80 and 84, the 84 -86 range if you dont get talked into the G50 is a great car, simple, raw, powerful enough for most owners in stock condition, and very robust.
Have fun looking and buying your 911.
AS stated and owning an 80 and 84, the 84 -86 range if you dont get talked into the G50 is a great car, simple, raw, powerful enough for most owners in stock condition, and very robust.
Have fun looking and buying your 911.
#17
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As someone who recently bought a 87, sight unseen... Here's the things to look for (outside of driving it and mechanical checks) that will determine the negotiating price:
2.) look for the padding in engine bay. If the padding is missing, most likely the engine has been dropped at some point
2.) look for the padding in engine bay. If the padding is missing, most likely the engine has been dropped at some point
I'd imagine that any of these cars with decent service history would have had the motor removed at some point?
#18
Three Wheelin'
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If you are buying a car to use as a daily then your requirements would be very different to that of a collector who'd be looking for stickers & factory paint & components. You'd want a car that has been sorted properly, i.e. Resprayed, a top end engine rebuild & suspension refresh. Just make sure the work was done right.
For the record I have owned or driven 911's from 73 longhood to 991 and for me the sweet spot in factory configuration is 87-89. It is however a very subjective view.
For the record I have owned or driven 911's from 73 longhood to 991 and for me the sweet spot in factory configuration is 87-89. It is however a very subjective view.
#19
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the only G50 I'd be interested in would have a 993 attached to it
best trans. is the 911 in the 1970-71 cars but they cannot handle a lot of torque
the 915 effed up the wonderful road-racing shift pattern of the 901/911 trannies
the G50 is a more modern syncro design to make the world safe for democracy and you have to buy a portly luxo-barge bumper car to get one
my hope is that the UN will outlaw them
best trans. is the 911 in the 1970-71 cars but they cannot handle a lot of torque
the 915 effed up the wonderful road-racing shift pattern of the 901/911 trannies
the G50 is a more modern syncro design to make the world safe for democracy and you have to buy a portly luxo-barge bumper car to get one
my hope is that the UN will outlaw them
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
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If you are buying a car to use as a daily then your requirements would be very different to that of a collector who'd be looking for stickers & factory paint & components. You'd want a car that has been sorted properly, i.e. Resprayed, a top end engine rebuild & suspension refresh. Just make sure the work was done right.
For the record I have owned or driven 911's from 73 longhood to 991 and for me the sweet spot in factory configuration is 87-89. It is however a very subjective view.
For the record I have owned or driven 911's from 73 longhood to 991 and for me the sweet spot in factory configuration is 87-89. It is however a very subjective view.
It seems challenging to find a good coupe from that era.
#21
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I purchased an 84 last year - very happy with it. Biggest thing I learned is that a well maintained and well documented higher mileage car makes a great daily driver. Documentation to me is even more important than a good PPI. At least you know the age of the typical stuff that may need to be replaced. Prices have been flat to lower since I purchased. Its a buyers market right now IMO. Good luck.
#22
Rennlist Member
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I have an '88 G50 car with limited slip, a KEP lightened pressure plate and heavier duty clutch plate. I love it, but it's what I'm used to. The G50 is heavier (literally) but I don't mind that fact. The down side that folks don't talk about too much is that there were only 2 years that this combo was available (3.2 & G50), and the rear suspension is different (torsion bars are shorter), so the aftermarket options are fewer and more expensive for transmission, clutch and torsion bar options. Not applicable if you plan to remain stock, but worth considering if you are looking to modify things.
#23
Rennlist Member
#24
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Most of the major points have already been made.
PPI and Records go a long way.
If the owner is honest, he will tell you how many miles to a quart of oil he gets - which could tell you a bit about the top end/valve guides and if a rebuild is in your near future.
I've found most of the small wear items to be very reasonably priced and if you can turn a wrench, upkeep won't be too bad.
If you don't absolutely need an AC, they are very daily driveable. Good luck
PPI and Records go a long way.
If the owner is honest, he will tell you how many miles to a quart of oil he gets - which could tell you a bit about the top end/valve guides and if a rebuild is in your near future.
I've found most of the small wear items to be very reasonably priced and if you can turn a wrench, upkeep won't be too bad.
If you don't absolutely need an AC, they are very daily driveable. Good luck
#25
Instructor
Thread Starter
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A big thanks to everyone here. I purchased an '87 Carrera yesterday. Everything original and didn't feel like the clutch was changed recently. Of course the AC didn't blow cold air. I plan on doing a full restore (well, a mechanic will) on the car before driving it daily. Once the project get going, I'll put up a build thread.
#26
Three Wheelin'
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On AC front there are modern options available such as the new electric unit by classic retrofit/Johhny. He is a well known long term IB owner here in UK and has done a couple of other interesting mods too.
http://www.ferdinandmagazine.com/porsche-911-electric-air-con
http://www.ferdinandmagazine.com/porsche-911-electric-air-con
#28
Rennlist Member
#29
Rennlist Member
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well, i paid fair $ for my 89 2.5 years ago, nothing like you guys maybe paid... and then I dropped a few K when i first got it on some maintenance and fixing a few things, then I drove it for 2 years, and now a big $ service with motor out, clutch, fuel lines, rubber hoses, etc etc, and I want to get the dash fixed, has a small crack, recover front seats, fix headliner, and well by time I'm done I'm in for way more than I could sell for. BUT, it's a known quantity, sorted, and well, they are so much fun to drive.
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...l#post14128085
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...l#post14128085
#30
Instructor
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
well, i paid fair $ for my 89 2.5 years ago, nothing like you guys maybe paid... and then I dropped a few K when i first got it on some maintenance and fixing a few things, then I drove it for 2 years, and now a big $ service with motor out, clutch, fuel lines, rubber hoses, etc etc, and I want to get the dash fixed, has a small crack, recover front seats, fix headliner, and well by time I'm done I'm in for way more than I could sell for. BUT, it's a known quantity, sorted, and well, they are so much fun to drive.
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...l#post14128085
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...l#post14128085