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Insides and bottom done, it's time for the top, so the first stage is to unmask everything grey, mask up everything green, then hit the grey with the final primer coat.

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Roll forward a week or two, polish the fresh paint and it's assembly time.

Raven 666

looks amazing and just love the colour ................

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Assembly continues as usual, wiring first, instruments second, followed by full electrical equipment test including lights. Any issues are easily resolved at this stage whilst all is accessible, rather than when the car is fully built.

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Prior to the rebuild we dyno tested the engine and found it to be right on factory HP, hence decided to leave it alone aside from the addition of an SSI exhaust and some detailing.

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Headlining, dash top, then glass. Doors come next and it's a major job to build these up correctly.

The door and quarter glass frames are the stock SC frames, paint striped, polished and anodised. The screen and rear window have new factory trims.

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The original SC engine came up well with the usual fan, housing and cam cover paint, detailed with re-plated fasteners, clips and pulleys. Under the engine are the ubiquitous SSI heat exchangers, the perfect tuning upgrade for the 3.0 litre K-jet engine. New high quality epoxy-glass ducktail and bumpers came into the build shop for a trial fit and adjust before painting. Fuel tank finish refreshed, ready to fit. The tank is stripped bare, etch primed then spray-sealed with 3m water-base sealer, as the underside of the car. Once dry it is semi-gloss primed for the factory look. Suspension received a refresh as well, stock rear trailing arms with 24mm torsion bars, re-plated spring plates with Neatrix bushes, repainted Bilstein struts with new 160/161 inserts match the 220/180 rear Clubsport shocks. New wheel bearings are fitted into the front hubs, of course.

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We did intend to paint the original oil tank, only to discover pin holes in the surface after paint stripping, so a new oil tank was a no-brainer. New lower ball joints in the front wishbones with turbo track rods had the steering sorted, so finaly the car was a roller again.

r911

how worn were the F. wheel bearings?

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.... which of course meant that we could roll it onto the lift and re-install the engine, a significant milestone in any 911 rebuild job.

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Engine in, new oil lines and tank connected up ready to go. Unfortunately the new Porsche oil tanks are only available with the yellow plastic filler cap as it would have been more in keeping with the build to have retained the original metal cap. The SSI heat exchangers of course require the oil scavenge line to be changed, routed under the gearbox rather than across the back as the stock SC and true to form removing the old oil lines pulled the threads from the 'stat, in spite of our best efforts so a new one was installed. We did manage to rescue the main oil lines down the sills which were cleaned and repainted prior to fitting. We used black 2-pack primer and solid black top coat for all the chassis components.

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Handbrake back plates were re-plated in the same batch with the spring plates and top hats; brake heat shields powder coated satin black. All conventional stuff which makes assembly a pleasure and the finished result something everyone of the team is rightly proud of.

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Finally we turned out attention to the interior, starting with the headlining. Fitting a new headlining on the non-sunroof 911 is all about preparation, in particular test fitting the struts to ensure that the lining does not touch the sound absorber pads when fitted. We now make out own struts since the new factory rods just do not fit correctly. The struts are also shaped differently front to rear, so it's important to check the fit then feed them into the headlining sleeves in the correct order.

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In the build shop the boys finish off the brake install whilst over at the bodyshop Wayne prepares the bumpers for final polishing.

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Bumpers and ducktail fitted, suddenly looks like a real 911RS lightweight. If only.....