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Stalling at stops and startup

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Old Nov 28, 2015 | 07:18 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by theiceman
the cht is the cylinder head temp sensor. it is the top connector of the connectors on the left... see if it has one wire going to the sensor or two
Thanks Ice, I pulled out DME earlier and ready for a swap. Where can I find the CHT??
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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 09:24 AM
  #32  
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As an update, I'm going to give mechanic my DME and he's giving me one of his to try out.
He also mentioned, that the air gap on the crank sensor, could be causing the stalling, if it's not exactly .8 mm. Is that something I can check myself?
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Old Dec 31, 2015 | 06:23 PM
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So the plot thickens!!! After I reinstalled my good ICV, I put the "borrowed" good DME in from my mechanic. It ran worse!!!
Idle hunted a little at start up and then during warm up, I noticed at idle, it would dip down low a few times and recover. Once I felt it was warmed up enough, I took her out. Almost immediately I noticed that once I laid on the throttle, the car would almost shut down! Sometimes it did completely and sometimes it would abruptly recover and snap my head back. It also would intermittently stall at stops / same issue as before. WTF?! Here's a pic of the DME, is it possibly from an '86-'89 and wouldn't work properly in my early 3.2?? I'm getting very frustrated now.......
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Old Jan 2, 2016 | 06:57 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by theiceman
why DME

have you checked your CHT sensor ?
is it a one wire or two wire version ?
Ice,

Here is a pic of the sensor, can you tell the type or need more pics?

I put my DME back in today and drove about 30 miles, only stalled once at a stop of many along the way...
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Old Jan 4, 2016 | 07:30 PM
  #35  
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I looked at my records and this was replaced a few months ago, when I originally mentioned an idle hunting issue. My mechanic is saying he now thinks the air gap is off in the crank sensor. He has a way of checking and adjusting w/o dropping the engine. However, I think it could also be a failure of the chip that I installed. I have the 2K version and here's a page from them, saying idle can hunt, etc. That still doesn't explain why the borrowed DME didn't work though...
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Old Mar 31, 2016 | 10:29 AM
  #36  
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Just taking her out of storage and still having the stalling issue, she's due at shop on 4/11, to check the air gap sensor at the crank. Any thoughts on my previous post regarding the chip that was installed? Also, how does it make sense, that a good DME swap, actually made the car run worse? It was like when I will giving it throttle, the power would be low, then greatly surge. Very odd....
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 09:54 AM
  #37  
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Going into shop tomorrow and starting to really notice that the weather plays a big part. When it's damp out, it stalls almost at every stop. Yesterday, bone dry 72 degrees and I drove her for 150 miles. Most of that was highway, yet she didn't stall once, after making a good 20 stops along the way. Got close a time or two, but no stalling. Thoughts???
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 10:36 AM
  #38  
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Sorry Sarge I cant help . but I can say that the pic you posted of the CHT .. that is the wiring harness side, ( see all the wires com together in a bundle ? ) the other side of the connector is the sensor and you will see either one or two wires coming off ( the top one is the CHT sensor I think ) if you see one wire its the old sensor and is prone to some weird issues due to grounding, and if you see two it is a new style. I am not saying this is the issue but noting this for future reference.

Do you have some sort of Steve Wong chip in it or anything ? I wonder if it ran worse with another dme due to the chip installed ? just musing.

I have an SC so I concentrate more on idle CO . I am not sure if you do the same with a Carrera , I will let other chime in .

Last edited by theiceman; Apr 19, 2016 at 01:13 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 01:06 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by theiceman
Sorry Sarge I cant help . but I can say that the pic you posted of the CHT .. that is the wiring harness side, ( see all the wires com together in a bundle ? ) the other side of the connector is the sensor and you will see either one or two wires coming off ( the top one is the CHT sensor I think ) if you see one sensor its the old sensor and is prone to some weird issues due to grounding, and if you see two it is a new style. I am not saying this is the issue but noting this for future reference.

Do you have some sort of Steve Wong chip in it or anything ? I wonder if it ran worse with another dme due to the chip installed ? just musing.

I have an SC so I concentrate more on idle CO . I am not sure if you do the same with a Carrera , I will let other chime in .
Hey Ice and thanks for the input, I checked my records and the CHT sensor was changed to the new one already.
Chip wise, yes! I have one from Fabspeed, which I posted info on a few posts back in this thread. Scroll up and check that out. I was going to bring my old chip and mention it as well tomorrow.
They want to now check the air gap on the crank sensor. They said that could be causing the stalling, if it's not exactly .8 mm.
I wonder if that's being off, will make the car run poorly / stall on mostly poor weather days. Being the barometric air pressures are different?? I might be reaching here, but....
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 08:45 AM
  #40  
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Not sure if this will help, but I watched a video from a Porsche repairman in Hawaii named Tim (I googled Porsche Idle issues) that discovered a very easy fix for stalling and idle surging in what I think was an SC 911. I was having high idle issues and occasional surging until car warmed up.
He discovered a stuck plunger inside the fuel distributor (the fuel distributor is located behind the airbox in the SC model). Tim pulled the stuck plunger up where it belonged, and cleaned it.

For my 1980 , I was able to adjust the big idle screw on my 1980 to rectify my issue. Tim pointed out the idle adjustment screw so I gave that a try before taking anything apart in my engine.
Hope it helps.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 10:59 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by tgil
Not sure if this will help, but I watched a video from a Porsche repairman in Hawaii named Tim (I googled Porsche Idle issues) that discovered a very easy fix for stalling and idle surging in what I think was an SC 911. I was having high idle issues and occasional surging until car warmed up.
He discovered a stuck plunger inside the fuel distributor (the fuel distributor is located behind the airbox in the SC model). Tim pulled the stuck plunger up where it belonged, and cleaned it.

For my 1980 , I was able to adjust the big idle screw on my 1980 to rectify my issue. Tim pointed out the idle adjustment screw so I gave that a try before taking anything apart in my engine.
Hope it helps.
Sarge has a 3.2, completely different animal , but something I can check on my car tho
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 01:46 PM
  #42  
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Correct Ice and I brought her back in today. We can scrap the poor weather theory / electrical. Today was another bone dry day, although colder in am like 46 degrees. Stalled a few times on way to shop. Hopefully the air gap sensor is off at the crank and if not, then maybe the aftermarket chip went bad. I brought my old chip in, just in case.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 03:26 PM
  #43  
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i'm going with fuelling myself ...
why would the sensor just go off while stopping. I just dont get it ..
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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 09:25 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by theiceman
i'm going with fuelling myself ...
why would the sensor just go off while stopping. I just dont get it ..
It's not that it goes off, I'm told that if the air gap isn't exactly .8mm, it can cause problems like i'm having. I expect them to check it today and I will keep posted.
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 10:46 AM
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Good luck. Would be nice to have another fix to add to our data banks
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