User 4221

On the G50, they went from a needle bearing setup to a bushing.

Over time the needle bearings would wear into the shaft and become "seated" causing a stiff clutch with non-linear actuation.

I'm not too sure about the 915.

User 4221

You're holding up well given all the exposure to Brad.

SARGEPUG

I intend to drive the car more, but as of now, I only have 100 miles on since new clutch w/ old flywheel combo. Again, mechanic inspected the flywheel during clutch replacement and said no replacement or work to it was necessary. (in hind sight, I should have had it changed anyway, my bad ) The shudder on 1st gear takeoff / clutch disengagement, I now find is only under the heaviest loads or lowest rpms. Slightly higher rpms make it non existent. Other than that, she operates flawlessly.
I've been doing some research and read a lot of things, one thing I'm hoping it is, is that the new sachs clutch, needs to properly seat / break-in against the old flywheel. Hopefully that's the case......

J richard

just drive it, you're bedding the friction surface just like brake pads. Since the clutch was fried getting it home friction material is likely also on the surface which will take a bit longer to scrub off. If it's not better after a week of spirited driving I'd take it back...

SARGEPUG

Thanks J,

However, with me, we can't talk in time, it must be miles. I am not afforded much time to drive this "toy". How many miles do you think should be sufficient?

SARGEPUG

Thanks for the input J in the private message. I've decided to bring her back in and already spoke w/ shop owner. He said the flywheel looked totally fine and didn't even need resurfacing. However, he sounded concerned about it and going to check it out. In hindsight, I'm sure he's starting to wish he did something to the flywheel. I've also been noticing in the first 120 miles of driving, that if I slightly slip the clutch w/ a little wheel spin, I smell burnt clutch. I haven't told him that yet, actually forgot! Not sure what that's about. Is that burning off old friction material or part of the potential problem here? Hopefully I am over-reacting and clutch just needs to "bed in", but I'm not that optimistic!

Ed Hughes

Sorry to say, I specifically suggested new FW, if original, in my first post #24. These cars often get so little miles, that getting the opportunity to go through as much as possible when a motor is dropped, that it only makes sense to do it right and do it once.

I spent probably $3500 in parts when I did my '95's clutch a couple of years ago-the clutch portion was much less than that-it was all the while you're in theres.

I hope they get it sorted

theiceman

Ed you are like the angel of death ..

if Ed suggests changing something , you are better off giving up early and just doing it or it will bite you later ...

Good Luck Sarge, I think the burning is not right ...

SARGEPUG

Right you are Ed, I wish I would have remembered to address it and not just let it be left alone. Also, shame on the garage!

Thanks Ice for input as well.

SARGEPUG

So some good news! Was taking her back in today, cause the dam throttle was sticking again and noticed the jutter / shudder is basically gone.
Last time out, I drove her aggressively for 30 miles and have about 130 on the clock since the job. Looks like those 30 aggressive miles, finished the job. Special thanks to J Richard here for that advice. I went over again w/ owner, who said he physically inspected my fly wheel and saw no bluing, no signs of prior abuse, scoring, etc., simply no reason to touch it. He said it could take up to 500 miles for a new clutch to marry up properly w/ the surface of an old flywheel.