nowata

So I came across an extremely clean and nice running 1975 911s. i drove the car and it shifts great, pulls hard, sounds great, etc.

last svc was a valve adjustment and "tune up" by a reputable air cooled shop. I would never buy a Porsche without a thorough ppi. so, that said, what are the land mines in this car?

I prefer to hear from those who have experience with this particular year and model as opinions are all over the board.

and any sort of market price recommendations would also be appreciated. under 70k miles. 2 owner. manuals, coa, and extra keys. no manila folder of receipts however.

it's a beautiful car but I don't want that to cloud my judgment.

GTgears

What kind of service history/records of rebuilding are available on the engine? That car has the infamous 2.7l engine. They are actually great engines, but they generally need to be rebuilt once, and have all their issues resolved, before they are real solid engines.

It's pre-full body galvinizing, so you want to check it really thoroughly for rust.

Those are the 2 "land mines" that immediately come to mind.

nowata

Minimal records and I am positive the engine has not had any sort of Rebuild

besir660

I have a 1977 2.7, which is the last of the 2.7.
In 1977, there was not an S model in europe and the s in US was the same 165hp enhine. However the one youre looking at musy be 175hp. I bougth my car similar to yours, no papers but felt great when i drove it. I didnt even make a ppi and trusted the dealera guarantee. Not a wise decision but things turned out ok except for the fuel system because I guess the car as sitting for a long time. I would say go for a good ppi, and if possible try to make a leakdown or compression test As you must know that 2.7 is not the best engine in U.S. Version due to the combination of thermal reactors and the magnesium case. Euro versions are better as they don't have the reactors... Pulled head studs must be quite common with US 2.7 engines. But if you manage to get a good one this car is a joy ! CIS is not as aggressive as mechanical injection but it is smooth and sweet, and you can still feel this car is one of the older 911s, it is raw and drives with a go-cart. I love it, I later bought a 993, but I still can't sell the 2.7 and I must admit I enjoy driving it more than the 993 :P

GTgears

75 won't have thermal reactors.

race911

CA cars did. Though likely long gone.

To confirm above, a "70K" original engine that has somehow managed to survive will likely need to come all the way apart to have timeserts installed to anchor the head studs. At a minimum the bore spigots will also be cut flat, and line bore checked. No question when you have the thing apart that you'll be replacing the valve guides. And then there are the ~45 other upgrades/updates/modifications that you'll do to bring it to a DIY $7K/retail $12K job.

nowata

Yikes!

race911

Which is why most of the cars were can kicked once past 5-6 years old. I made a living off the things in the mid '80s-early '90s either re-rebuilding them, or getting cars that somehow survived the "first 50".

Biggest thing on a PPI is to get someone who has an extensive working knowledge of the Mg case era, where check #1 will be head stud torque. And no doubt with the current owner signing a waiver that if a stud pulls during said check, you and the shop are not responsible.........

Back to the car. If it has a front oil cooler (really unlikely for a '75), huge bonus. Even though it's a mere "trombone" if factory equipped. On the minus side, huge negative if it has air conditioning. I THINK all the '75s were port installed, so it will not have the smaller, secondary condenser/fan up in the front truck. (Only the engine decklid mounted unit.)

nowata

car has no records. all I know is that the current owner inherited it from his dad's estate (his dad was 2nd owner) about 6 yrs ago and he has no use or interest in the car. he had a local reputable "old Porsche shop" pull the ac and do a valve adjustment 4 yrs ago. that's all I know. I doubt the car has had any updates or engine internal work. car has anniversary interior and colors, but no dash plaque. not that I care either way.

I noticed some heaving of the rubber in front of both headlights suggesting possible corrosion. but the remainder of the car is incredibly clean so maybe it's something else. a scuff on left front side of bumper and some minor waviness on body sides from years of possibly door dings. nothing offensive. but silver hides imperfections well.

Amber Gramps

Carrera era seats. ....so interior isn't original. I like it.

PelicanParts.com

Silver does hide imperfections very well. Never wanted one, but ended up getting one and glad I did. That looks like a beautiful 911.

GTgears

Looks like a solid car. I'd gamble on that one.

JCP911S

It's all money for money...

We all know that a total engine rebuild is $7-14K depending... but this is a known item, and when done properly, these engines are quite reliable... and I'd consider this an investment, as these will run for 20 years.

Bodywork is another issue.... this can get really expensive, but if the car is really solid, straight, and minimal rust, even if the paint is a bit rough, its a good buy for the right price.

Now, 74-77 are not the most desirable, but with with air-cooled 911 prices going crazy right now, if you are comfortable making a $35K commitment to this car, I don't think you'll get hurt... eyeball test, it seems pretty straight.

Good luck

Art Caputo

I owned a 1975 911S back in the 80's and as I recall there are some issues to watch out for. The most serious issue with this year, was the problem of the heads loosening due to the differing metals used for the studs and block. The issue showed up with my 911 at 65,000 miles and was a common occurance with this 911. It would show up with a leakdown. It requires the steel studs be replaced with Delrin studs....at least, given there were no other resultant issues. Other things that should be checked/upgraded is the replacement of the mechanical chain tensioners with hydraulic ones, and a blow out valve should be installed in the intake air box. An intake pop will blow the plastic air box without this valve. I would check to see if these upgrades were performed. Of course all the horsepower robbing air pumps and other junk on the vehicle to deal with pollution should be scrapped. My car was a California car. Once all this was addressed, it became one of my favorite 911's.

race911

Dilivar studs have been dismissed as a replacement for about 20 years now. Checking stud torque is infinitely better than a leakdown test. All factory 911 chain tensioners were hydraulic, though the 3.2L '84-'89 (and I guess Turbos we want to get picky) units are pressure fed v. sealed.

As far as the airbox and the pop valve, I'll defer to both the experts who educated me + what I saw in running both shops to say that any car that's in good tune equipped with an updated airbox with the internal cold start manifold won't have any issues.