Cool Collar
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From: TX
Keep in mind as you look at ways to reduce temps that you can actually get them too cool. For example, with a front valance-mounted cooler, at the Glen Monday and Tuesday, I was running with oil temps around 180 degrees. Air temps were in the mid 50's to lower 70's, so it was coolish. If I did something to get the temps 10 degrees cooler, that would be too cool. 180 is about as low as you want to go. On a warmer/hot day, oil temps go up around 190-200, which is fine. Basically anything between 180 and 250 is OK, although 250 is hot (I think Bruce Anderson calls 250 and above "too damn hot")
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 209
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From: Outer Space
For a device like the "Cool Collar" to work as intended, it would have to be out in the airflow. Not in a hot and stuffy corner of a 911 engine bay. Save your money towards a proper front mounted oil cooler if you want to see a real reduction in oil temps.
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From: TX
George,
There's two ways to tell the temperature. First is look at the oil temp gauge from the right hand side, you may need a flashlight. Off to the left of the gauge, out of line-of-sight, are the degrees centigrade for each marking. Write them down, and you now have a better idea of what the temps are. The second option is to replace the oil temp gauge with one from earlier 911's, which shows the actual temperatures. Several vendors sell kits consisting of the gauge and the temperature sender. One vendor, AJUSA, has the gauge and sender for $65. Here's the URL: http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/shop/vi...22&oid=5736608
Here's what's involved. Getting the gauge out of the dash is simplicity itself: open the front hood, move the carpet aside, and push the housing with the oil temp/oil pressure gauges out of the dash. 4 small screws hold the oil temp portion in the larger housing. Old out, new in, change wires to new, push housing back into the dash, done with part 1.
Part 2 requires replacing the existing temperature sender on the engine with the new (actually it's the pre-SC sender) sender. The sender is on the right side of the engine where the cam oil line comes out at the base
of the fan. You'll see a yellow/black wire attached to the end of it. Detach the wire, undo the existing sender, put the new sender in (don't forget the washer), attach the wire, and you're done. Takes about 45 minutes start to finish.
There's two ways to tell the temperature. First is look at the oil temp gauge from the right hand side, you may need a flashlight. Off to the left of the gauge, out of line-of-sight, are the degrees centigrade for each marking. Write them down, and you now have a better idea of what the temps are. The second option is to replace the oil temp gauge with one from earlier 911's, which shows the actual temperatures. Several vendors sell kits consisting of the gauge and the temperature sender. One vendor, AJUSA, has the gauge and sender for $65. Here's the URL: http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/shop/vi...22&oid=5736608
Here's what's involved. Getting the gauge out of the dash is simplicity itself: open the front hood, move the carpet aside, and push the housing with the oil temp/oil pressure gauges out of the dash. 4 small screws hold the oil temp portion in the larger housing. Old out, new in, change wires to new, push housing back into the dash, done with part 1.
Part 2 requires replacing the existing temperature sender on the engine with the new (actually it's the pre-SC sender) sender. The sender is on the right side of the engine where the cam oil line comes out at the base
of the fan. You'll see a yellow/black wire attached to the end of it. Detach the wire, undo the existing sender, put the new sender in (don't forget the washer), attach the wire, and you're done. Takes about 45 minutes start to finish.
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Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 42
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I have used the cool collar with the same results as most everyone on the bbs.The cool collar is not a cooler ,it is a heat sink and can do the job without the benifit of air rushing over it and also it is not intended to replace any oil cooler on a porsche , only to supplement them.Also i would like to note that any cooling device that is added to the system is automaticaly regulated by the thermostat, so if the weather is cool the thermostat regulates the temps regardless of how many oil coolers or devices you have installed.40 bucks for a 10 degree reduction in oil temps, sounds like the cheapest 10 degrees you can get
JMPRO 78 911 SC
JMPRO 78 911 SC
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Denver
Hey Guys,
Thanks. Good advice.
Just to give you a little history, we have a 2.7 RS engine with a front oil cooler. We also have an oil tank that holds an additional quart of oil. During the last DE the car ran up to 245 degrees. It was about 80 degrees out. We are going to an event on the 14th & 15th of this month and my wife and I are worried that it is going to get to hot. We are thinking about putting a hole in the front right light bucket and removing the light in place of a screen that I will construct (just to keep rubber, rocks, foreign stuff, out of the oil cooler). Can you guys think of any other things I could do? We will probably put an RS type front air dam type of oil cooler onto the car next year. For now we will go off of the track and let it cool off before it gets to hot.
As for the cool collar, I think I am going to get one. 10 degrees is probably worth the cost.
Anyway, thanks again.
Andy
Thanks. Good advice.
Just to give you a little history, we have a 2.7 RS engine with a front oil cooler. We also have an oil tank that holds an additional quart of oil. During the last DE the car ran up to 245 degrees. It was about 80 degrees out. We are going to an event on the 14th & 15th of this month and my wife and I are worried that it is going to get to hot. We are thinking about putting a hole in the front right light bucket and removing the light in place of a screen that I will construct (just to keep rubber, rocks, foreign stuff, out of the oil cooler). Can you guys think of any other things I could do? We will probably put an RS type front air dam type of oil cooler onto the car next year. For now we will go off of the track and let it cool off before it gets to hot.
As for the cool collar, I think I am going to get one. 10 degrees is probably worth the cost.
Anyway, thanks again.
Andy
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 209
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From: Outer Space
Are you sure you can get a constant 10 degree drop with this thing?
Looking at a picture of the Cool Collar, I'd say it does not have nearly enough mass to be an effective heat sink. Without forced cooling, it would reach saturation in no time, after which it would be useless.
But hey....it's your 40 bucks.
Looking at a picture of the Cool Collar, I'd say it does not have nearly enough mass to be an effective heat sink. Without forced cooling, it would reach saturation in no time, after which it would be useless.
But hey....it's your 40 bucks.
Advanced
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 64
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From: san jose, ca
I feel like an argument tonight. So here is what I think-
- I just went out to the garage to look in the engine compartment of my Carrera, seems there is a big honkin 11 blade fan spinning at close to 10,000 rpm at redline. I don't think the air is stagnant in that compartment
- The CC is not a heat sink, it is designed to dissipate heat. That is why it is covered in fins.
- The heat dissipated from the CC is getting sucked back into the engine by said 11 blade fan. Hence the oil may be cooled at the expense of higher cylinder and head temps.
So I think the CC could help cars that have high oil temps, but low engine temps. Course our 911s don't have engine temp guages so we never know if this is the case.
Why doesn't someone make a CC type device that sticks to the oil tank, thus dissipating the heat into the wheel well instead of letting it get sucked back into the engine?
- I just went out to the garage to look in the engine compartment of my Carrera, seems there is a big honkin 11 blade fan spinning at close to 10,000 rpm at redline. I don't think the air is stagnant in that compartment
- The CC is not a heat sink, it is designed to dissipate heat. That is why it is covered in fins.
- The heat dissipated from the CC is getting sucked back into the engine by said 11 blade fan. Hence the oil may be cooled at the expense of higher cylinder and head temps.
So I think the CC could help cars that have high oil temps, but low engine temps. Course our 911s don't have engine temp guages so we never know if this is the case.
Why doesn't someone make a CC type device that sticks to the oil tank, thus dissipating the heat into the wheel well instead of letting it get sucked back into the engine?
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Joined: Jun 2001
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Clark, like you said , that big fan spinning at 10,00 rpm moves a lot of air through the eng. bay . No one seems to know { hey one of you educated eng. types figure it out } how much air , but i would guess it has to 3 or 4 thousand C.F.M . The small amount of heat added buy the cool collar, i don't believe , would have any effect on the head or cyl. temps. As for the finned oil tank , it has been designed for porsches but is just too expensive to produce for the size of the market
MHO JMPRO 911SC
MHO JMPRO 911SC
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Why is it that if somebody coms up with an inexpensive way to keep the older engines cooler, a lot of people come up with a hundred ways to tell you why it can't work. It does work and even if it only cools five degree it is worth the $ 40.00.
I have teste it in Las Vegas ( 118deg. )in city driving with a/c on.
Without Cool Collar 245 deg. oil temp.
with Cool Collar 237 deg.
Pete.
I have teste it in Las Vegas ( 118deg. )in city driving with a/c on.
Without Cool Collar 245 deg. oil temp.
with Cool Collar 237 deg.
Pete.
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From: TX
Andy,
When you say you have a cooler there, what type is it? It's not the couple of loops of metal piping is it? Assuming you've got a real cooler there, you're going down the right path - get air to it. I've seem people who have drilled holes behind the right front 7" light, removing it for DE. I've seen where they've cut out a big section. In either case adding mesh to keep crud out of there. There's also a small scoop that Paragon and Pelican sell to send some more air in. You can also mount a fan there. On my 3.0L I tried all sorts of things, ending up with a front mounted cooler, and now, all is well.
When you say you have a cooler there, what type is it? It's not the couple of loops of metal piping is it? Assuming you've got a real cooler there, you're going down the right path - get air to it. I've seem people who have drilled holes behind the right front 7" light, removing it for DE. I've seen where they've cut out a big section. In either case adding mesh to keep crud out of there. There's also a small scoop that Paragon and Pelican sell to send some more air in. You can also mount a fan there. On my 3.0L I tried all sorts of things, ending up with a front mounted cooler, and now, all is well.
