Removing trailing arm
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Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Texas
Removing trailing arm
I'm in the middle of a suspension refresh - it's been very straight forward thus far - but I can't figure out the right set of tools to remove the trailing arm where it attaches to the body/torsion tube. Thanks in advance for the trick.
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From: Bend, OR
Including engine rebuilds, suspension rebuild, brake upgrade and goodness knows how many projects I did to Ruby, this was the single worst job I ever did. I ended up using a box end wrench with a 4' pipe on it, and my 210 lb body hanging off the end of that. 4 hours of cursing all told. Good luck.
I haddah Google dat
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From: Fresno, CA
I read this thread several times, and have to admit to being confused about the question.
You mean the 4 bolts that attach the springplate retainer? Or the eccentric bolts that adjust height and toe? In my case the whole thing came right off. Only the rear shock bolt was stuck, and it came right off with the impact wrench.
The clamp bolts that hold the two parts of the factory spring plate were very stuck, but some large wrenches and the impact wrench make quick work of those.
I did a thread on my rear springplate bushings a few years ago.
The inner bushings (banana arm) are a whole different job. I think the transmission and engine should be out to do that job.
You mean the 4 bolts that attach the springplate retainer? Or the eccentric bolts that adjust height and toe? In my case the whole thing came right off. Only the rear shock bolt was stuck, and it came right off with the impact wrench.
The clamp bolts that hold the two parts of the factory spring plate were very stuck, but some large wrenches and the impact wrench make quick work of those.
I did a thread on my rear springplate bushings a few years ago.
The inner bushings (banana arm) are a whole different job. I think the transmission and engine should be out to do that job.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Bend, OR
No, it is the banana arm, where it pivots and secures inside the trans tunnel. If he's refreshing those bushings, or (like I did) installing monoballs, they have to come off for a true suspension refresh. A breakdown in PET should show you the layout. Springplates are off at this point.
I read this thread several times, and have to admit to being confused about the question.
You mean the 4 bolts that attach the springplate retainer? Or the eccentric bolts that adjust height and toe? In my case the whole thing came right off. Only the rear shock bolt was stuck, and it came right off with the impact wrench.
The clamp bolts that hold the two parts of the factory spring plate were very stuck, but some large wrenches and the impact wrench make quick work of those.
I did a thread on my rear springplate bushings a few years ago.
The inner bushings (banana arm) are a whole different job. I think the transmission and engine should be out to do that job.
You mean the 4 bolts that attach the springplate retainer? Or the eccentric bolts that adjust height and toe? In my case the whole thing came right off. Only the rear shock bolt was stuck, and it came right off with the impact wrench.
The clamp bolts that hold the two parts of the factory spring plate were very stuck, but some large wrenches and the impact wrench make quick work of those.
I did a thread on my rear springplate bushings a few years ago.
The inner bushings (banana arm) are a whole different job. I think the transmission and engine should be out to do that job.
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I haddah Google dat
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From: Fresno, CA
ohh...yes those are tough to get off.
I used two big wrenches and 4' sections of 1/4" thick box steel. I used them as cheater bars and positioned the wrenches to push down. I got them off fairly easily but the impact wrench won't work. Too confined.
I used two big wrenches and 4' sections of 1/4" thick box steel. I used them as cheater bars and positioned the wrenches to push down. I got them off fairly easily but the impact wrench won't work. Too confined.
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From: Bend, OR
Same solution that I arrived at with the 4' pipe I mentioned. So, it seems like 800-1000 ft-lbs is on order to get these buggers lose.
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From: San Antonio TX
schnabelmj, make sure you have two or more jacks to remove/loosen the hardware. I use a floor jack to reaise the trailing arm and another smaller round jact to take the weight of the trailing arm to remove the bolts. Then slowly lower the spring plate(s) so you can remove it/them from the trailing arm. If you are doing this on the ground, it is a huge job. On the G50 tranny, there is very little room to remove the trailing arm bushings which I recommend be done on a lift. Otherwise, you may need to drop the motor & tranny.
I haddah Google dat
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From: Fresno, CA
That's a good way to press the bushings in. I think they used parts from that blue box in the background, which is the Sir Tools wheel bearing installation tool.
I'm in the middle of changing a wheel bearing myself, but can't get the hub out of the bearing. I'm sort of stumped. Might try a slide hammer.
I'm in the middle of changing a wheel bearing myself, but can't get the hub out of the bearing. I'm sort of stumped. Might try a slide hammer.
I haddah Google dat
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From: Fresno, CA
Ha, that's funny but no...not hardly.
My problem is that the Sir Tools puller doesn't have enough travel before the hub hits the puller. The hub won't come out of the bearing, and the bearing is holding tight and not giving up the hub.
So, I might try to cut some wooden blocks to increase the puller travel, or try a slide hammer. This is sort of normal DIY stuff. I am starting to think that bearing might have been good, because it's fighting me pretty well so far.
My problem is that the Sir Tools puller doesn't have enough travel before the hub hits the puller. The hub won't come out of the bearing, and the bearing is holding tight and not giving up the hub.
So, I might try to cut some wooden blocks to increase the puller travel, or try a slide hammer. This is sort of normal DIY stuff. I am starting to think that bearing might have been good, because it's fighting me pretty well so far.