gla924sem

Purchased a turbo tie rod set to the update the 1977 from the OEM.

Tried last night using the directions in 101 Projects for your Porsche 911.....and not working.

Can't get enough leverage on the tie rod to break it loose at the rack

Too much give in the rubber bushings

OK.....so what's the nack of removing these????

gtihop

I found i easier to take the rack off and do it on the bench. Can get it all together on the workbench and put it back on the car

theiceman

i droped the front sway bar and used the opportunity to replace those bushings too. then just dropped the the tie rod and used it as a wrench

rusnak

The outer tie rod pin is a bear to remove. There is a tie rod tool common to both Porsche and BMW that makes removal without damage to the rubber boot a simple 2 minute procedure.

I've posted it a bunch of times before, but can't find it now.

wildcat077

I had a nightmare of a time removing the inner one on the driver's side ... ended up cutting it off with a high speed grinder and a cutting disc !
It almost seemed like it was welded on ...

Cheers !
Phil

Droops83

I usually use a hammer and long punch on one of the flats of the notches on the "nut," that almost always gets it to budge.

Amber Gramps

Thanks Droops. Headed under the car with a three pound sledge and a cold chisel. So far, so good.

SiberianDVM

I just did this last month and I had the same problem of getting the inner rod to unscrew from the rack. I ended up removing the end from the tie rod, putting both nuts on the inner rod, screwing them down all the way, and using a long socket and several long 1/2" extensions until I got the thing long enough to where it was outside of the wheel well. Then I could get a long breaker bar on it and get some torque on it.

MillenniumFalcon

+1 on the chisel, and dropping the swaybar to get more room...

Amber Gramps

OK, guys.... Never in all my 27 or so years of driving have I ever had such a satisfying drive as I just had. Crisp, solid, true, and totally stable. Absolutely the best run of mods has been the Bilstien HD's and the Lemfoerder tie rods from Rennsport Systems.

Here is the secret of getting your non-turbo tie rods off. Are you ready? ZIP TIES. All ya gotta do is zip tie the cold chisel to the sway bar so you don't hit your fingers with a 3# sledge.

Once the bleeding stopped and triple dosed on pain meds the job was simple.

The other secret is to turn the wheels so the rack and pinion is all the way in on the side you are working on. This makes for a more solid striking position for the tie rod.

I can't believe I spent more time on the grinder destroying my Proto wrench to make it skinny enough to fit between the tie rod and the spacer than I did actually using the wrench.

with the new toys I got from Paragon the alignment was a snap.

http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...id=152&catid=5

Oh, and I dropped my wheel arches to 25-1/2".

Never have I done anything that impacted a car so much....well, except on the 4th of July, 1987 when I put a Cavalier into a cornfield in rural Virginia.

Amber Gramps

Google: spanner wrench.

88911coupe

I'm looking at this project myself along with another total PITA (ball joints) is there any risk of damage to the rack with all this pounding and twisting? I was thinking we'd need to stabilze it or something...or am I worrying about a non issue?

TIA

Amber Gramps

Turn the wheel so the rack is all the way in on the side you are working on then move it about 1/4" back out to give yourself some room for the wrench. The 2" spanner wrench I got after the fact was a Williams #482 side spanner that was about $32 and can also be used to install Bilstein inserts into Boge struts. It will spread the "pounding" around to two notches rather than just one, like when using a cold chisel.

Here is one for $20:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JH-WILLIAMS-...item1e569f7ad8

MillenniumFalcon

Amber- I could have used that wrench last week....installed Bilsteins in my Boge struts....argh...!

88911- If you're in need of a ball joint removal tool, Harbor Freight has a really nice ball joint removal tool (not a fork tool) that gently pushes them out- it cost me less than $8

delonlemos

I have Similar problem little bit confused but done
Thanks for sharing