I am going to do an oil and filter change. 86' 3.2
My old mechanic closed and went to work for the local
Dealer. Loved him, but won't pay dealer costs for an oil change.

He's been using Swepco which I can't find. What good Dino oil
should I buy? Also what type filter? I'm in a mild climate.

Thanks for any advice given!

 

If you are new to posting on these forums, then let me prepare you for a slew of responses. "Oil" is the most debated subject on the internet. Someone will chime in with some advice on brand and type to use, to only then have someone else counter that advise.

I tend to keep things simple, just use the weight of oil recommended in the owner's manual. You will probably see that 15W-40 is the oil recommended for the widest range of outside temps.

As for brand of oil...... for dino oil, alot of 911 owners go with Shell Rotella. I know that my '83 SC came factory filled with Shell oil, as there are Shell oil stickers on the airbox stating such. So if Shell oil products were good enough to be a "factory fill", then it's good enough to change the oil with.

For an oil filter, most owners go with Mahle. This is readily available online. I pay about $10 for the one on my SC.

Since you have the 3.2 engine, I don't know how much oil it takes. My SC takes just under 11 qts.

Will this be your first time changing the oil on a 911 yourself?

 

I buy my filters from Pelican Parts (great pricing for OEM). On the oil front, there are two schools of thought:

1) "newer Porsche-certified SYNTHETIC blends" like Mobil 0W-40
2) "older CONVENTIONAL or PARTIAL SYNTHETIC blends" like Brad Penn (20W-50), Swepco or Redline.

Many argue that the "older" blends have the proper Zinc and Phoshorus required for the air-cooled engine, and other argue that Porsche's newer recommendations should be followed.

As S2TGART correctly observed, this topic is hotly contested! You might want to do a search to assess both sides.

-Blake

 

While you'll get lots of opinions and answers here, I'd strongly recommend NOT using Mobil-1 0w-40 as thats formulated for the later, 4-valve water-cooled cars. Despite the Factory's OK on this product, its lacks sufficient ZDDP for the air-cooled engines and the factory is in business to sell parts.

Swepco 15w-40 and Brad-Penn 20w-50 are both excellent oils that will protect your investment quite well.

 

Since you are in California you can get away with the thicker oils.

Per the owner's manual for my car, 15W-40 is good for temps ranging from about 5 degs to over 100. The aforementioned 20W-50 is good for temps. 15 degs. to over 100. So, I am fairly certain you never see temps below 32, never mind 15. So go with 20W-50 for the added protection.

If this your first time changing the oil, be prepared for a gusher when you pull the oil tank's drainplug. Have a very large container ready to catch the oil and a lot of rags/paper towels. When I did my first oil change, I used one of those very large containers that is meant to not only catch the oil but transport it to a recycling center. The problem was that it had only 1 small drain hole in the middle and an even smaller vent on the edge to let the air out as the oil went in. Well for my first oil change, the oil won. The air couldn't escape fast enough and the oil just started coming over the edge. So I modified this container by drilling several 1/2 inch holes around the main hole, plus a few more along the top edge. I am happy to say I haven't had problems since.

Once the oil is out, now thr tricky part is getting new oil in. Due to the location and angle of the oil fill neck, I use a long funnel with a goose neck. Place a fender cover over the fender and place the goose neck part in the oil tank and position the funnel between the hood and the fender.

Good luck.

 

This....along with other suggestions except synthetic

 

86NO h2O, the oil tank holds approximately 8 qts of oil and the crankcase about 4 qts. that drain container as suggested should have a lot of small holes or a big like on mine. I just cut out the whole center (about an 8" diameter) and had no more problems. When filling, I only put 10 qts in it, let it run until the oil cooler lines are hot and then check thew level. it should be checked on level ground. I have the level set at midpoint on the dipstick. Add if needed to achieve that level.

 

lts of threads but as far as oils go the obnes listed here are right on the money

Brad pen , swepco, or VR1 racing. You dont need to know anything else .. other than how to do it so you dont over fill your oil of course

 

Yep, and the BeeGee's probably had a number one record back then too.

The oil Shell sold in 1986, is not what Shell sells now. Even brands like Mobil 1 has changed in the last few years, with regard to formulation, i believe much due to the fact that they got so much negative press on their levels of ZDDP from owners of older cars. The OP is best to heed Steve's advice.

 

FYI... just "googled" Valvoline VR1 20W-50 and Autozone is charging $5.29/quart plus $2 off! You save the extra $2/qt when you put it in your cart and purchase through April 1, 2012. They will ship for free if you spend more than $75.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ntifier=561829

That is an awesome deal...

-B

 

I use Amsoil and have had amazing luck with it.

 

Autozone seems to be the only store that carries VR-1 in the NYC metro area and my local guy was out of it the other day. The manager pointed me to Kendall GT-1 Racing oil with zinc. The ultimate oil thread on PP has included this in the list of acceptable lubricants for our air-cooled engines so I bought a couple of quarts for the occasional top-up.

Don't forget to order a pair of new drain plug washers ($0.25) when you order your filter.

Edit: many Autozone's I have been in lately are stocking VR-1 SAE 50. Do not confuse this straight weight oil with the 20W-50.

 

Here you go. Everything you ever wanted to know about oil and then some...93 pages and counting
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...4-sm-oils.html