Joining the Club ' 86 Cab/Widebody
01-21-2012, 09:32 AM
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Scott....how did you get the side skirt on your valance white ? Painted of aftermarket product ?
Its how a speedster or spoiler delete would look and what I should do....sans the rubber lip.
01-21-2012, 10:57 AM
#19
Shannon,
Mine is a narrow body car and all stock so it came this way originally.
I guess the speedsters came without front rubber lip? I haven't looked that closely.
You may look at finding a widebody front valence and modifying it for your needs. This is probably cheaper then finding a speedster valence.
Mine is a narrow body car and all stock so it came this way originally.
I guess the speedsters came without front rubber lip? I haven't looked that closely.
You may look at finding a widebody front valence and modifying it for your needs. This is probably cheaper then finding a speedster valence.
01-21-2012, 05:32 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Shannon, the radius arm bolts are really there to correct small corner weight imperfections rather than height adjustments. But, speaking of ride height, the car looks perfectly lovely to me as is!
Regarding the tail, many of the earliest factory M 491 Turbo Look cars were built without the rear whale tail. When I had my shop I serviced a couple of them, and they were very pretty. That said, if your wide body conversion is all steel (it looks really good in the pics), it might be worthwhile to keep your tail and find a replacement engine lid to put on the car.
Another thought. Just curious, are you sure that the car is Euro-spec? I know it has the front, side, turn signals mounted behind the front flares, but if used fenders, from a Euro Turbo, were used for the conversion, it would have been easier to install the small, amber lights than to fill the holes. And more than a few owners have switched to narrow Euro rear bumper guards, and Euro light lenses.
Regarding the tail, many of the earliest factory M 491 Turbo Look cars were built without the rear whale tail. When I had my shop I serviced a couple of them, and they were very pretty. That said, if your wide body conversion is all steel (it looks really good in the pics), it might be worthwhile to keep your tail and find a replacement engine lid to put on the car.
Another thought. Just curious, are you sure that the car is Euro-spec? I know it has the front, side, turn signals mounted behind the front flares, but if used fenders, from a Euro Turbo, were used for the conversion, it would have been easier to install the small, amber lights than to fill the holes. And more than a few owners have switched to narrow Euro rear bumper guards, and Euro light lenses.
Here is the VIN wp0zzz91zgs150362 I believe it is Euro....I have all past records after it came to states in 1999.
01-24-2012, 05:20 PM
#22
Race Car
SWEET. I myself like a widebody without the tail too. I also like euro cars for a variety of reasons, but one major one being the signals in the fenders AND the rear fog light. The rear fog light just completes the look for me.
Congrats. That car looks really good. Along with the tail-delete option, Insignia-delete was common on 491 cars. If you get the deck, you can fill the "SC" holes and have a superb "491 look" as oposed to a "Turbo look".
Properly lowering a 911 is usually a good thing, but you may already be at euro height which is optimal for a street car IMHO. Regardless, making sure all the wear and tear bits are solid is the big thing.
Congrats. That car looks really good. Along with the tail-delete option, Insignia-delete was common on 491 cars. If you get the deck, you can fill the "SC" holes and have a superb "491 look" as oposed to a "Turbo look".
Properly lowering a 911 is usually a good thing, but you may already be at euro height which is optimal for a street car IMHO. Regardless, making sure all the wear and tear bits are solid is the big thing.
02-17-2012, 02:31 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hey Guys.....been reading all about 'lowering'
Can the torsion bar spline be adjusted without complete removal of the torsion bar ? Guess I was thinking about the 'other' things I'd have to do if removal is required....like taking off the stone guards, removing the torsion bar access cover and removal of rocker trim.
Just didn't know if it was possible to make the spline adjustment without taking the torsion bar completely out.
Can the torsion bar spline be adjusted without complete removal of the torsion bar ? Guess I was thinking about the 'other' things I'd have to do if removal is required....like taking off the stone guards, removing the torsion bar access cover and removal of rocker trim.
Just didn't know if it was possible to make the spline adjustment without taking the torsion bar completely out.
02-17-2012, 03:52 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
You need the covers off as you need to be able to pull the spring plate out to move it on the splines. And the interior and exterior splines are different, so you may need to re-index the entire bar to dial in the right amount of height. Sort of 2 steps forward, 1 step back to finetune the height.
02-18-2012, 12:07 PM
#25
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Just dropping this Torsion bar/suspension video in here for some general reference on the procedure.
Last edited by Shannon123; 02-18-2012 at 12:34 PM.
02-18-2012, 12:26 PM
#26
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thinking out-loud here.
Due to the fact I've never even seen a torsion bar, I'm still a bit unsure of one thing on this torsion bar/spline adjusting procedure.
Is the height adjustement coming from
a) actually moving/twisting one end (or both) of the torsion bar splines ? or
b) by merely repositioning the spring plate on the torsion bar splines ?
IF a...is this spline twisting/clicking done by hand, screwdriver thew end cap, pliers.....??
Thanks
Due to the fact I've never even seen a torsion bar, I'm still a bit unsure of one thing on this torsion bar/spline adjusting procedure.
Is the height adjustement coming from
a) actually moving/twisting one end (or both) of the torsion bar splines ? or
b) by merely repositioning the spring plate on the torsion bar splines ?
IF a...is this spline twisting/clicking done by hand, screwdriver thew end cap, pliers.....??
Thanks
02-18-2012, 07:06 PM
#27
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ah....finally found pretty comprehensive w/pics link to re-index splines/lower the car. Posting here just so I don't lose the link.
Lowering/torsion bar/reindexing etc. #1
#2
And of course, the important tool that nobody including '101 Projects' has discussed or I missed them pointing it out.....The ride height adjustement wrench..
Lowering/torsion bar/reindexing etc. #1
#2
And of course, the important tool that nobody including '101 Projects' has discussed or I missed them pointing it out.....The ride height adjustement wrench..
Last edited by Shannon123; 02-18-2012 at 07:39 PM.
02-19-2012, 06:53 PM
#28
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Anr another comprehensive link on Lowering/Torsion bar replacement. Guess I'm about ready to start this project....got no excuses left now.
http://rennlight.com/howto/torsion/index.html
http://rennlight.com/howto/torsion/index.html
02-19-2012, 07:18 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
It really is pretty straight forward. It looks more complicated on paper. The main thing to do is buy a cheap angle finder (analog works fine,,digital is pretty cheap though-even an app for that!) to see where your plates hang to now, before you pull them. This gives you a baseline. Then, when you re-index, check the difference and with the springplate calculator, you can approximate the height diff.
