Joining the Club ' 86 Cab/Widebody
01-14-2012, 01:40 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Joining the Club ' 86 Cab/Widebody
First....I would like to thank all the Rennlisters for the support in enabling/teaching me about these cars. Its been a long 2 plus year process, but finally found the 'right' car for me.
Secondly....I know photos are mandatory and I intend to post them this weekend.
Third....the car is a 1986 Euro White Ext/ Blck/Int CAB with widebody. Rebuilt engine/clutch and tranny w/short shift. Upgraded brakes on front. Upgraded to Turbo tie rods. Purchase price just above mid teens.
A couple questions
1. I do not really want the tail on it. I don't really need to keep the tail, therefore, I was thinking of just taking it off, having the holes filled and repainted. On the other hand, would it be smarter to just buy/find another decklid and repaint (if needed) and put it on ?
2. Ride Height:
The front is set at 25 1/2", tires are fresh
The rear is set at 25 1/2", tires are NOT fresh.
I have read that I probably need the rear set around 25". I should probably freshen up the tires before adjusting the rear ? I would like to takle this lowering project myself, therefore, was wondering if its really as simple as
Pelican 101 projects - Lowering REAR
If you have a later model 911, then you’re in luck, as you don’t have to remove the torsion bar covers and radius arms to get at least some degree of adjustment. On these cars, the radius arms were equipped with an adjustment screw. To raise or lower the rear of the car, simply loosen the large nut and bolt closest to the torsion bar. Then rotate the other bolt located next to it. This bolt is eccentric, and will cause the rear of the car to be raised or lowered as you turn it. Adjust the height as described previously, and then tighten the bolt located nearest to the torsion bar.
Thanks again...and yes I will be becoming a full fledged (paying) member here.
Secondly....I know photos are mandatory and I intend to post them this weekend.
Third....the car is a 1986 Euro White Ext/ Blck/Int CAB with widebody. Rebuilt engine/clutch and tranny w/short shift. Upgraded brakes on front. Upgraded to Turbo tie rods. Purchase price just above mid teens.
A couple questions
1. I do not really want the tail on it. I don't really need to keep the tail, therefore, I was thinking of just taking it off, having the holes filled and repainted. On the other hand, would it be smarter to just buy/find another decklid and repaint (if needed) and put it on ?
2. Ride Height:
The front is set at 25 1/2", tires are fresh
The rear is set at 25 1/2", tires are NOT fresh.
I have read that I probably need the rear set around 25". I should probably freshen up the tires before adjusting the rear ? I would like to takle this lowering project myself, therefore, was wondering if its really as simple as
Pelican 101 projects - Lowering REAR
If you have a later model 911, then you’re in luck, as you don’t have to remove the torsion bar covers and radius arms to get at least some degree of adjustment. On these cars, the radius arms were equipped with an adjustment screw. To raise or lower the rear of the car, simply loosen the large nut and bolt closest to the torsion bar. Then rotate the other bolt located next to it. This bolt is eccentric, and will cause the rear of the car to be raised or lowered as you turn it. Adjust the height as described previously, and then tighten the bolt located nearest to the torsion bar.
Thanks again...and yes I will be becoming a full fledged (paying) member here.
Last edited by Shannon123; 01-15-2012 at 08:55 PM.
01-14-2012, 04:48 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
If the tail is original to the car, I would keep it and order a new decklid. That way if you sell the car, you have it available for the new owner.
The rest ot the stuff, I will let the real mechnics answer. My car was already lowered when I bought it.
The rest ot the stuff, I will let the real mechnics answer. My car was already lowered when I bought it.
01-15-2012, 04:44 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Oh wait...I missed the widebody part...so this is a Turbo Look? As much as I don't like tails I'm not sure that it'll look correctly without a tea tray tail or duck.
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01-15-2012, 05:02 PM
#8
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01-15-2012, 05:10 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
01-15-2012, 09:13 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
01-15-2012, 10:47 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
Looks great!
As to lowering, it depends on where the adjustment is set now-if at the lowe point, you may have to reindex. If you do that, then look at doing the bushings, if needed. An alignment and CB would be great too. Heck, if the shocks are orginal, they could stand a look too. Not crazy money if you need to, and the car will drive like new.
As to lowering, it depends on where the adjustment is set now-if at the lowe point, you may have to reindex. If you do that, then look at doing the bushings, if needed. An alignment and CB would be great too. Heck, if the shocks are orginal, they could stand a look too. Not crazy money if you need to, and the car will drive like new.
01-20-2012, 04:15 PM
#14
Awesome. Glad to see you found something. I like the spoiler delete, too. It was a factory available option on the factory widebodies, if I recall correctly.
Keep the tail on the lid. You can keep it for originality or sell the whole thing together. I'm sure it's worth more as one piece, and that will offset most if not all the cost of a replacement lid.
Brett
Keep the tail on the lid. You can keep it for originality or sell the whole thing together. I'm sure it's worth more as one piece, and that will offset most if not all the cost of a replacement lid.
Brett
01-20-2012, 05:38 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
Shannon, the radius arm bolts are really there to correct small corner weight imperfections rather than height adjustments. But, speaking of ride height, the car looks perfectly lovely to me as is!
Regarding the tail, many of the earliest factory M 491 Turbo Look cars were built without the rear whale tail. When I had my shop I serviced a couple of them, and they were very pretty. That said, if your wide body conversion is all steel (it looks really good in the pics), it might be worthwhile to keep your tail and find a replacement engine lid to put on the car.
Another thought. Just curious, are you sure that the car is Euro-spec? I know it has the front, side, turn signals mounted behind the front flares, but if used fenders, from a Euro Turbo, were used for the conversion, it would have been easier to install the small, amber lights than to fill the holes. And more than a few owners have switched to narrow Euro rear bumper guards, and Euro light lenses.
Regarding the tail, many of the earliest factory M 491 Turbo Look cars were built without the rear whale tail. When I had my shop I serviced a couple of them, and they were very pretty. That said, if your wide body conversion is all steel (it looks really good in the pics), it might be worthwhile to keep your tail and find a replacement engine lid to put on the car.
Another thought. Just curious, are you sure that the car is Euro-spec? I know it has the front, side, turn signals mounted behind the front flares, but if used fenders, from a Euro Turbo, were used for the conversion, it would have been easier to install the small, amber lights than to fill the holes. And more than a few owners have switched to narrow Euro rear bumper guards, and Euro light lenses.