AGW911

After deciding I am keeping my car, for now, I have decided to make it a home in the workshop and get it up on jack stands to start "Discovery Phase 2".

I know that the suspension pan will be coming out, so I am wondering what the best method is to put it up on stands and not have the stands in the way.

I'll post some pics of "Discovery Phase 2" once I get started. I had a quick look at the rear yesterday and everything seems to be solid back there. I think the floor rust on the front is from it sitting somewhat unprotected in a carport by the PO with a leaky targa seal on one side.

Anyway, the adventure begins!!!!

Ed Hughes

I'd think the jacking points under the main pan would work. You need to get with "500_19B" on what he did.

AGW911

Thanks for the reference. I remembered seeing someone do it on here, but couldn't remember who. He is also only 2.5 hours down the road!!

500_19B, if you have any other tips that aren't listed in the post it would be much appreciated. Not sure when I will get around to this job, but any advice will help.

HarryD

This is Bill Verburg's jacking and jack stand location drawing I like the best. Has more than just the lift points.

500

I think the main consideration will be if there is other damage on the floor pan that may need to be avoided. In my case I was lucky in that the only corrosion on the car was the suspension pan area near the battery, everything else was solid.

I put my jack stands right over the pinch seam in the area between the "B" dimension and the "C" dimension, closer to the the "C" dimension where the pan flares out. used wood blocks with a slot cut in them for the sheet metal flange to nest into.

As well, I used a piece of hardwood as a transervse spreader so that I could jack the car from the CENTER of the front. I measured the distance on each side and cut the wood blocks to get the same height at each jack stand (my floor was slightly off-level and I wanted the car to rest with no static torsion). I doubt this affected anything, but it was just something to add extra insurance to the dimensional accuracy of the job.

Of key importance is not to move the car at all during the whole duration of the job. This allows you to make "story sticks" and make all sorts of reference measurements that you can used to check position and alignment when it all goes back together.

soofle616

Sorry for the ancient resurrection all. I tried searching for "500_19B" as referenced but came up empty. The engine and trans are out of my car for rebuilds and in the meantime I figured I might as well deal with suspension and other issues the car has been developing over the years. Phase 1 is the rear end so I have new bushings, shocks, etc. but I'm not clear as to where I should put my jackstands to support the car so I can remove everything? Right now it's up on jackstands but they are underneath the torsion bar covers. I have a jack pad that I used to get it up in the air but obviously I can't support the car on the covers if I'm going to be removing them to replace the bushings.

From the image that HarryD posted it looks like I can put them on either side of the trans mounting holes but I'm not really following the description of that photo. Is that a safe/secure location for the stands?

theiceman

That's him in the post above you " 500"

go to the D dimension, to either side of that there is an X and an O

jack it up where the X is and put the jack stand under where the O is . Or if you want it completely out of the way put the jack stands on either side of the H where the X is

soofle616

Got it. Thanks for the clarification.