Restoration...which engine to get...why ('78 911SC)?
11-07-2011, 10:40 PM
#17
Wow, that is rough. Not a bad idea to seek a replacement engine for a quick fix. I don't think I'd even try to start it. If it were my project, I'd just pull the engine expecting to rebuild or replace. If it's the original engine, maybe keep it for future rebuild. If not, dump it.
Brett
Brett
11-08-2011, 12:01 AM
#18
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Thread Starter
That engine defiantly needs some work. Price wise that more depends on if it starts or not.
+1 on doing every thing before starting it. Just based on exterior rust that oil filter and fuel filter have to go. I would get a new distributor cap and rotor as well. As for getting a new engine that comes down to a few things.
-How much work do you want to do
-How much work do you want to pay to have done
-Do you just want to drive the car or do you want a project.
If you want a project and want to do a good deal of work, I say keep the engine. Drop it out, break it down and clean it up. Personally I love doing my own work I find it very rewarding and I come to be far more attached to the cars. You will learn a great deal along the way as well. Some of the work you will find you simply cant do, like say powder coating the fan. You will need quite a few parts if you want the engine looking like new. The price may in the end be about the same, I say fix the current engine, if that is the original engine for the car all the more reason to.
As for dropping the engine, yes it can be done with out a lift. I have never done it but i know many who have. you will need at least a jack and some jack stands.
+1 on doing every thing before starting it. Just based on exterior rust that oil filter and fuel filter have to go. I would get a new distributor cap and rotor as well. As for getting a new engine that comes down to a few things.
-How much work do you want to do
-How much work do you want to pay to have done
-Do you just want to drive the car or do you want a project.
If you want a project and want to do a good deal of work, I say keep the engine. Drop it out, break it down and clean it up. Personally I love doing my own work I find it very rewarding and I come to be far more attached to the cars. You will learn a great deal along the way as well. Some of the work you will find you simply cant do, like say powder coating the fan. You will need quite a few parts if you want the engine looking like new. The price may in the end be about the same, I say fix the current engine, if that is the original engine for the car all the more reason to.
As for dropping the engine, yes it can be done with out a lift. I have never done it but i know many who have. you will need at least a jack and some jack stands.
I'm pretty sure it's the original engine but I'll ask the prior owner just to make sure.
Wow, that is rough. Not a bad idea to seek a replacement engine for a quick fix. I don't think I'd even try to start it. If it were my project, I'd just pull the engine expecting to rebuild or replace. If it's the original engine, maybe keep it for future rebuild. If not, dump it.
Brett
Brett
11-08-2011, 12:05 AM
#19
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Thread Starter
I'm also getting some manuals/books and Wayne's 101 projects is one of them. Thanks for the tip.
11-08-2011, 12:30 AM
#20
Racer
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If you are going to change the motor, dont jump to sell the current one. You could always consider rebuilding it to euro spec, bumping you from 180 to 210HP. A rebuild will depend on how much you have done and how much you want to do. Unless you have a shop and a great deal of know how the only thing that most people cant truly do is the machining work. From there you can assemble the motor, install it and tune it your self id you like. That being said, you can have that all done as well.
You could always look at an upgrade to a 3.2 motor, or if you can find them as a set a 3.2 and a G50. If you are going to get rid of the engine, I would be more than happy to purchase some of the parts from you.
You could always look at an upgrade to a 3.2 motor, or if you can find them as a set a 3.2 and a G50. If you are going to get rid of the engine, I would be more than happy to purchase some of the parts from you.
11-08-2011, 04:15 AM
#21
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Thread Starter
If you are going to change the motor, dont jump to sell the current one. You could always consider rebuilding it to euro spec, bumping you from 180 to 210HP. A rebuild will depend on how much you have done and how much you want to do. Unless you have a shop and a great deal of know how the only thing that most people cant truly do is the machining work. From there you can assemble the motor, install it and tune it your self id you like. That being said, you can have that all done as well.
You could always look at an upgrade to a 3.2 motor, or if you can find them as a set a 3.2 and a G50. If you are going to get rid of the engine, I would be more than happy to purchase some of the parts from you.
You could always look at an upgrade to a 3.2 motor, or if you can find them as a set a 3.2 and a G50. If you are going to get rid of the engine, I would be more than happy to purchase some of the parts from you.
I'll keep you posted if I decide to sell things from it.
Btw, is Pelican the best (cheapest) place to get parts from?
11-08-2011, 11:53 AM
#22
Racer
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If I want new stuff I usually go to pelican. I also like to give them my business because there tech forums, articles and books (the 101 projects book was written by the guy that owns pelican) have been a great help to me. dcauto.com sells parts from cars they have parted out and is a good source if you want a better price but dont mind using used parts. Ebay is a hit or miss as im sure you know. I have seen some other sites but only ever ordered from pelican or DC. Your local auto parts store can also be a good resource for small things. Nuts, bolts, filters, plugs etc. for stuff like that I always go local as they usually have it in stock and its the same price as pelican with out the shipping. Pelican has always been good to me, I have never had any issues with them. But like I said it all depends what you need. Another thing that can effect this is the condition of the part its self. If some thing is simply cracked in half, yes replace it, but say you have a leaky oil tank, dont jump right to getting a new one. Go to a local shop and see if they can weld it up for you, that may turn out to me much cheaper than buying a new tank all together.
Regards
Dave
Regards
Dave
11-08-2011, 05:41 PM
#24
RL Community Team
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That (for me) is an unprecedented level of corrosion. I have never seen such a rusty SC motor. As such, I would expect it needs to be gone through entirely, as even the inner bits may have corrosion issues.
At a very minimum, I think the heads must come off as I can't imagine that the headstuds are still in decent shape (i.e. not significantly corroded).
Your way forward is not cheap. A replacement motor may be the least costly. As Ed says. $5 to $6K should get you a decent 3.0 or 3.2. Rebuilding what you have can easily cost more than that, depending on what really needs to be done. Remember though, that even a decent replacement motor might only be 10K away from needing a valve job... So, it can all add up any which way you go depending on how the dice roll...
How much do you have in this car, if you don't mind me asking? The reason is that I fear that the suspension and, even worse, the body may also exhibit significant corrosion issues, in which case, this will be a very expensive restoration. You may want to consider if the candidate car in question is the best starting point... Just thinking out loud...
At a very minimum, I think the heads must come off as I can't imagine that the headstuds are still in decent shape (i.e. not significantly corroded).
Your way forward is not cheap. A replacement motor may be the least costly. As Ed says. $5 to $6K should get you a decent 3.0 or 3.2. Rebuilding what you have can easily cost more than that, depending on what really needs to be done. Remember though, that even a decent replacement motor might only be 10K away from needing a valve job... So, it can all add up any which way you go depending on how the dice roll...
How much do you have in this car, if you don't mind me asking? The reason is that I fear that the suspension and, even worse, the body may also exhibit significant corrosion issues, in which case, this will be a very expensive restoration. You may want to consider if the candidate car in question is the best starting point... Just thinking out loud...
11-08-2011, 05:49 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
Jack, I agree, looks like a flood recovery car. I'll bet the inside of that motor and cylinders looks the same as the outside. Good luck with the project.
11-08-2011, 08:05 PM
#26
Pelican is almost never the cheapest, but sometimes they're the only or most convenient supplier of things. Their customer service is known to be very, very good. Shop around first, then decide.
Brett
Brett
11-08-2011, 10:46 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
I just saw this video. I'd not waste any time with pressure washing, at least not while in the car. I'd drop that sucker and start pulling valve covers, intake, etc to get a better look inside ports, at the cams, etc. You may want to rent or buy a boroscope to peek inside. Depending on how long that thing sat exposed to water or whatever, it could easily be ugly inside as well.
11-09-2011, 05:21 AM
#29
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
That (for me) is an unprecedented level of corrosion. I have never seen such a rusty SC motor. As such, I would expect it needs to be gone through entirely, as even the inner bits may have corrosion issues.
At a very minimum, I think the heads must come off as I can't imagine that the headstuds are still in decent shape (i.e. not significantly corroded).
Your way forward is not cheap. A replacement motor may be the least costly. As Ed says. $5 to $6K should get you a decent 3.0 or 3.2. Rebuilding what you have can easily cost more than that, depending on what really needs to be done. Remember though, that even a decent replacement motor might only be 10K away from needing a valve job... So, it can all add up any which way you go depending on how the dice roll...
How much do you have in this car, if you don't mind me asking? The reason is that I fear that the suspension and, even worse, the body may also exhibit significant corrosion issues, in which case, this will be a very expensive restoration. You may want to consider if the candidate car in question is the best starting point... Just thinking out loud...
At a very minimum, I think the heads must come off as I can't imagine that the headstuds are still in decent shape (i.e. not significantly corroded).
Your way forward is not cheap. A replacement motor may be the least costly. As Ed says. $5 to $6K should get you a decent 3.0 or 3.2. Rebuilding what you have can easily cost more than that, depending on what really needs to be done. Remember though, that even a decent replacement motor might only be 10K away from needing a valve job... So, it can all add up any which way you go depending on how the dice roll...
How much do you have in this car, if you don't mind me asking? The reason is that I fear that the suspension and, even worse, the body may also exhibit significant corrosion issues, in which case, this will be a very expensive restoration. You may want to consider if the candidate car in question is the best starting point... Just thinking out loud...
The car was given to me by a friend who had it sitting for about 3 years outside in the yard. I know the starting point is not in the greatest condition but I like the challenge and want to learn at the same time.
I think the fastest way to get it on the road would be to purchase another engine, but from suggestions mentioned earlier, and I agree, I should look into the current state of the engine to see what exactly is wrong with it. I'll talk with the prior owner this weekend to get more details about how the car ran before he parked it. He did mention that it was running and being driven before being parked so hopefully all is not lost.
I just saw this video. I'd not waste any time with pressure washing, at least not while in the car. I'd drop that sucker and start pulling valve covers, intake, etc to get a better look inside ports, at the cams, etc. You may want to rent or buy a boroscope to peek inside. Depending on how long that thing sat exposed to water or whatever, it could easily be ugly inside as well.
Do you know of a thread/link showing how I can drop the engine without a lift?
Thanks guys I appreciate the help and suggestions thus far
