just bought my first 911!
#16
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Your transmission will teach you the finesse of shifting, double clutch, and rpm awareness. You can retro to the older Jags, MGs, and all without difficulty. When you get good, you will be able to shift through all the gears (after 1st) without the clutch. I broke a clutch cable in Compton and drove home without it. It was a 1966, 911 and would launch in first gear with the starter.
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well to be honest i thought of myself as decent with double clutching and shifting finess i autocrossed my acura rsx-s while i had it and currently rallycross a 944, but i guess the 911 has really shown me how sloppy a modern car like the rsx will let me be. for some reason now i am haveing very little trouble with the 911 and shifting, i guess i am just getting more used to it now. thanks for your tips and help guys!
#19
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Welcome to the world of 915s.
I would make sure that you have Swepco 201 gear oil in there, easy to check be removing the fill plug, it is blue and very sticky and smells like rotten eggs. This is pretty much the standard gear oil for these gearboxes, is very thick and sticky and allows the Porsche balk-ring style synchros to slow the teeth down quickly during shifts.
Also, make sure that the clutch cable is adjusted correctly. In my experience, I have found that many people leave the cable adjustment too loose. They follow the factory adjustment procedure blindly without actually taking into account of what you are trying to achieve: I gauge the adjustment by the tension of the last stretch of cable that runs between the locknuts and the clutch arm. You should NOT have to shift into 2nd or reverse in order to get into get into 1st smoothly if the clutch adjustment is correct, unless the 1st gear synchro is totally shot.
These transmissions are a dichotomy. They are very robust in some ways, but have very delicate synchros, and require care when shifting, observe the two-part shift as described in Pete Zimmermann's book. In my opinion a G50 doesn't have much on a proper-shifting 901 or 915.
I would make sure that you have Swepco 201 gear oil in there, easy to check be removing the fill plug, it is blue and very sticky and smells like rotten eggs. This is pretty much the standard gear oil for these gearboxes, is very thick and sticky and allows the Porsche balk-ring style synchros to slow the teeth down quickly during shifts.
Also, make sure that the clutch cable is adjusted correctly. In my experience, I have found that many people leave the cable adjustment too loose. They follow the factory adjustment procedure blindly without actually taking into account of what you are trying to achieve: I gauge the adjustment by the tension of the last stretch of cable that runs between the locknuts and the clutch arm. You should NOT have to shift into 2nd or reverse in order to get into get into 1st smoothly if the clutch adjustment is correct, unless the 1st gear synchro is totally shot.
These transmissions are a dichotomy. They are very robust in some ways, but have very delicate synchros, and require care when shifting, observe the two-part shift as described in Pete Zimmermann's book. In my opinion a G50 doesn't have much on a proper-shifting 901 or 915.
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
good to know. first still takes a few goes sometimes, i might have to check out that clutch cable. are your guyses clutch pedles easy to actuate? like is it a linear feal, or does it feel like it springs out harder after the clutch starts to engage. that is the only thing that annoyes me right now on the car. i am fairly used to it but its like it jumps at you right when the clutch starts to engage. it really makes stop and go a chore.
#21
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Welcome to the world of 915s.
I would make sure that you have Swepco 201 gear oil in there, easy to check be removing the fill plug, it is blue and very sticky and smells like rotten eggs. This is pretty much the standard gear oil for these gearboxes, is very thick and sticky and allows the Porsche balk-ring style synchros to slow the teeth down quickly during shifts.
I would make sure that you have Swepco 201 gear oil in there, easy to check be removing the fill plug, it is blue and very sticky and smells like rotten eggs. This is pretty much the standard gear oil for these gearboxes, is very thick and sticky and allows the Porsche balk-ring style synchros to slow the teeth down quickly during shifts.
#22
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had Swepco 201...changed it out and seriously...it made a noticeable improvement.....I put in Kendall ns-mp - a re-fresh of the shifter and coupler will also make it so once your timing and technique are ready, the whole system just comes into it's own.....
as you may have read, get out of first by 4200 rpm and there is a slight pause before hitting second, once smooth the passenger should not even know you paused.....that is a good goal IMO
Let me know if you want some advice on shifter and coupler improvements
as you may have read, get out of first by 4200 rpm and there is a slight pause before hitting second, once smooth the passenger should not even know you paused.....that is a good goal IMO
Let me know if you want some advice on shifter and coupler improvements
#23
Race Car
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just put Amsoil GL4 transaxle lube in my "transaxle" and it shifts better than ever. Many people highly recommend it. Like Ed said; do a search here.