Fuel Pressure Gauge/ No Start Issue
07-23-2011, 08:02 PM
#61
Good luck, Doug. My sensor wires did the same thing when I pulled the engine. They crumbled like a cracker.
Wish I could join-in the engine drop party (assuming it happens). Cooler weather would be nice.
Wish I could join-in the engine drop party (assuming it happens). Cooler weather would be nice.
07-24-2011, 06:18 PM
#62
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Thread Starter
Well, the upper bolt came right out after a 24 hour soak. The lower bolt must have broken right at the head and expanded in the process. The bracket won't budge. 
I'm gonna cool off and think through taking a pry bar to it.
I'm gonna cool off and think through taking a pry bar to it.
07-24-2011, 06:26 PM
#63
Rennlist Member
Maybe a burr hanging it up? I'd probably try to pry easily as well. I've been meaning to buy one of the $79 boroscopes HF has on sale. Would be helpful for these types of issues.
07-24-2011, 07:04 PM
#64
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Thread Starter
decided to go with the pickle fork and it came out with some persuasion. OK, lots of persuasion. There looks to be enough bolt sticking out to get vise grips on it. May just set her back down and call it a day. 
07-24-2011, 10:01 PM
#65
Rennlist Member
Two very simple tests to localize the problem:
1. Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and
place the end about 10mm from the engine case.
2. Remove the #1 injector connector and insert a noid light,
buy one at AutoZone/Reillys or Pep Boys.
3. Have someone crank the engine while you monitor both
the coil wire & noid light.
Tests results:
1. Both immediate spark and noid upon cranking then;
Both speed & ref sensors, powers/grounds O.K., and
DME ECM O.K. - Check for fuel pressure and/or spray
carb cleaner into air filter and re-do steps 1-3 above.
Check distributor cap next.
2. If neither noid nor spark then; check sensors, DME ECM,
or powers/grounds, or DME relay
3. If noid but no spark then; DME ECM a problem,
or power to coil from ignition switch (since already
replaced the coil), also check coil wire for resistance.
Once it starts, remove the ref sensor connector, the
engine should keep running and accel perfectly if
not then bad speed sensor. Next, try reversing the
speed & ref sensors on the engine and then the
two connectors on top, i.e. Possible weak sensor.
4. If spark but no noid then; power connection to
injectors or bad DME Relay.
The above is a starting point and NOT an exhaustive/in-detail
troubleshooting guide.
1. Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and
place the end about 10mm from the engine case.
2. Remove the #1 injector connector and insert a noid light,
buy one at AutoZone/Reillys or Pep Boys.
3. Have someone crank the engine while you monitor both
the coil wire & noid light.
Tests results:
1. Both immediate spark and noid upon cranking then;
Both speed & ref sensors, powers/grounds O.K., and
DME ECM O.K. - Check for fuel pressure and/or spray
carb cleaner into air filter and re-do steps 1-3 above.
Check distributor cap next.
2. If neither noid nor spark then; check sensors, DME ECM,
or powers/grounds, or DME relay
3. If noid but no spark then; DME ECM a problem,
or power to coil from ignition switch (since already
replaced the coil), also check coil wire for resistance.
Once it starts, remove the ref sensor connector, the
engine should keep running and accel perfectly if
not then bad speed sensor. Next, try reversing the
speed & ref sensors on the engine and then the
two connectors on top, i.e. Possible weak sensor.
4. If spark but no noid then; power connection to
injectors or bad DME Relay.
The above is a starting point and NOT an exhaustive/in-detail
troubleshooting guide.
Now THAT's cutting to the "chase"....
Thanks, Loren.
Doyle
07-29-2011, 12:11 AM
#66
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Thread Starter
First and foremost I need to thank Rusnak for the parts and the tools. You are a true friend and a stud. Ed, you too have helped me on this. The pain in my hands makes doing what I love a major pain and it really helps to know you guys are cheering me on. I really do appreciate all of you.
The sensors and the broken bolt are out.
I doubled my dosage of painkiller and went to work. First was another shot of PB Blaster and a half hour soak, then came the Visegrips. About 50 turns later the bolt was out. Disconnecting the plugs and pulling out the rubber boot and bingo....free at last.
I'll get Rusnak's sensors in this weekend and we'll see if this was the problem.
Yes, the wires really did crumble.
The sensors and the broken bolt are out.
I doubled my dosage of painkiller and went to work. First was another shot of PB Blaster and a half hour soak, then came the Visegrips. About 50 turns later the bolt was out. Disconnecting the plugs and pulling out the rubber boot and bingo....free at last.
I'll get Rusnak's sensors in this weekend and we'll see if this was the problem.
Yes, the wires really did crumble.
07-29-2011, 02:59 AM
#67
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I think those are wires from Berlin, left over from a bombed out factory.
DB, not sure what's ailing your hands, but you GOTTA be happy to have all that stuff out safely. The BMW and 944 sensors are working flawlessly with many thousands of miles on them so far. Have to thank brother Whalebird for that lead.
DB, not sure what's ailing your hands, but you GOTTA be happy to have all that stuff out safely. The BMW and 944 sensors are working flawlessly with many thousands of miles on them so far. Have to thank brother Whalebird for that lead.
07-29-2011, 01:37 PM
#69
Addict
Thread Starter
Rusnak, Do I set the depth with the washer on the sensor then pull the sensor out and take the washer off and reinsert the sensor before firing it up, or do I leave the washer on and let the teeth on the flywheel knock it off?
I'm kidding. 
07-29-2011, 02:39 PM
#70
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Haha! I would just clean the bracket really well, and use a very thin coat of grease on the sensor, so that it comes back out easily. Then, you'll have an easier time inserting the new one. The top sensor stays out. Only the bottom one is used to set the gap. You gotta turn the crankshaft until the bolt/screw lines up with the sensor.
In my opinion, that stupid grommet that the CHT wire has on it is the hardest part of the job. There are two slits in it for the two sensor wires to be fitted through.
In my opinion, that stupid grommet that the CHT wire has on it is the hardest part of the job. There are two slits in it for the two sensor wires to be fitted through.
07-29-2011, 03:33 PM
#71
Addict
Thread Starter
Haha! I would just clean the bracket really well, and use a very thin coat of grease on the sensor, so that it comes back out easily. Then, you'll have an easier time inserting the new one. The top sensor stays out. Only the bottom one is used to set the gap. You gotta turn the crankshaft until the bolt/screw lines up with the sensor.
In my opinion, that stupid grommet that the CHT wire has on it is the hardest part of the job. There are two slits in it for the two sensor wires to be fitted through.
In my opinion, that stupid grommet that the CHT wire has on it is the hardest part of the job. There are two slits in it for the two sensor wires to be fitted through.
07-29-2011, 08:44 PM
#73
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Thread Starter
07-30-2011, 03:14 PM
#74
Addict
Thread Starter
Well, she didn't fire right up, but that may have been from air in the fuel lines. She did fire right up on each subsequent try. Let's hope we've got it.