Fuel Pressure Gauge/ No Start Issue
08-19-2011, 08:00 PM
#92
Addict
Thread Starter
...and if you are curious about all the drugs I've got the worst case of Hemochromatosis that my HMO has ever seen and the pain is catching up to me:
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0001368/
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0001458/
08-19-2011, 08:34 PM
#93
Team Owner
wasn't curious .. but im just like that 
what do you think this is the Porsche club ? this is rennlist .. "it's not about the people .. just the cars "
what do you think this is the Porsche club ? this is rennlist .. "it's not about the people .. just the cars "
08-19-2011, 09:03 PM
#94
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
It's sounding more and more like the ECU. Obviously it's not ok to jump to conclusions, but....
I think the next step is to change out the ecu back to your old one.
The reason is that a bad afm can fry an ecu in a second. Same with a bad tach. If your afm fried your ecu, then that's why I said to change them both (they are both confirmed good parts). So, you change out the ecu back to your original, leaving the known good afm in there. If it fails to start each time, then you can suspect your ecu. On the other hand, if the car starts each time, then it could be the afm. If you put the new ecu back in, then make sure that you keep the known good afm in there as well.
I think the next step is to change out the ecu back to your old one.
The reason is that a bad afm can fry an ecu in a second. Same with a bad tach. If your afm fried your ecu, then that's why I said to change them both (they are both confirmed good parts). So, you change out the ecu back to your original, leaving the known good afm in there. If it fails to start each time, then you can suspect your ecu. On the other hand, if the car starts each time, then it could be the afm. If you put the new ecu back in, then make sure that you keep the known good afm in there as well.
08-19-2011, 09:55 PM
#95
Addict
Thread Starter
It's sounding more and more like the ECU. Obviously it's not ok to jump to conclusions, but....
I think the next step is to change out the ecu back to your old one.
The reason is that a bad afm can fry an ecu in a second. Same with a bad tach. If your afm fried your ecu, then that's why I said to change them both (they are both confirmed good parts). So, you change out the ecu back to your original, leaving the known good afm in there. If it fails to start each time, then you can suspect your ecu. On the other hand, if the car starts each time, then it could be the afm. If you put the new ecu back in, then make sure that you keep the known good afm in there as well.
I think the next step is to change out the ecu back to your old one.
The reason is that a bad afm can fry an ecu in a second. Same with a bad tach. If your afm fried your ecu, then that's why I said to change them both (they are both confirmed good parts). So, you change out the ecu back to your original, leaving the known good afm in there. If it fails to start each time, then you can suspect your ecu. On the other hand, if the car starts each time, then it could be the afm. If you put the new ecu back in, then make sure that you keep the known good afm in there as well.
I think we have narrowed it down a bit.
08-20-2011, 12:00 AM
#99
Addict
Thread Starter
08-20-2011, 12:09 AM
#100
Team Owner
Can't edit with an iPhone damn it
Stock chip of course and look for bad solder joints on the ecu board.
Didn't you have a russel and Hobbs chip or some such thing ?
Stock chip of course and look for bad solder joints on the ecu board.
Didn't you have a russel and Hobbs chip or some such thing ?
08-20-2011, 12:14 AM
#101
Addict
Thread Starter
The stock chip is back in and I've gone over every inch of the boards. It's time to break out the schematic and really take a hard look at the boards, joints, and flux capacitors.
08-20-2011, 01:03 AM
#103
Addict
Thread Starter
08-20-2011, 01:52 AM
#104
"The reason is that a bad afm can fry an ecu in a second."
As always, not true!
And the tach itself RARELY if ever damages the DME ECM.
It's the mis-wiring of the tach signals from the ECM that
damages the ECM.
Bottom line: Must have read the above over on the 'Dark Side'
as they have been really providing some mis-leading info
lately, e.g. It's always an air leak problem for any 3.2 problem,
with the exception of AM reception.
Example: Read the latest thread for intermittent no-start here:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...e-problem.html
Poor Pelican thread starter! They get sucked right in.
As always, not true!
And the tach itself RARELY if ever damages the DME ECM.
It's the mis-wiring of the tach signals from the ECM that
damages the ECM.
Bottom line: Must have read the above over on the 'Dark Side'
as they have been really providing some mis-leading info
lately, e.g. It's always an air leak problem for any 3.2 problem,
with the exception of AM reception.
Example: Read the latest thread for intermittent no-start here:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...e-problem.html
Poor Pelican thread starter! They get sucked right in.
08-20-2011, 02:01 AM
#105
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Doug, it's not in Bentley. I think I have the pdf in my remote HD back at the office.
I forgot to mention that Steve Wong has diagnosed intermittant no start to broken solder joints on a small board that is perpendicular to the two large boards.
I forgot to mention that Steve Wong has diagnosed intermittant no start to broken solder joints on a small board that is perpendicular to the two large boards.