Recommendation please on late 60s to early 70s 911
#1
Track Day
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Hi all.
I currently have a 2000 boxster S and would like to get a second car.
I love the looks and the sound of late 60s, early 70s 911s.
I would like to use it frequently, almost a daily driver. Including Wisconsin winters.
What should I look for? Also, I would prefer a 5 speed.
What years would be the easiest for the do it yourselfer?
Also, are the heaters fairly good on these?
I currently have a 2000 boxster S and would like to get a second car.
I love the looks and the sound of late 60s, early 70s 911s.
I would like to use it frequently, almost a daily driver. Including Wisconsin winters.
What should I look for? Also, I would prefer a 5 speed.
What years would be the easiest for the do it yourselfer?
Also, are the heaters fairly good on these?
#2
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Bimmer:
I'm not sure you would want to use an early 911 in our winter climate. All the salt they dump here will eat away at those non-zinc coated bodies pretty quickly. My previous 911, an '86, spent it's entire life with the prior owner here in Milwaukee and after 100,000 miles and many winters, it was starting to eat itself apart from the inside out. This was on a car that had a 10 year rust warranty.
I kept the car out of the weather for the 4 years I had it, but the tin worm kept working away. I'd hate to see what would happen to an early 911 after being subjected to all this salt...
Hopefully other early 911 owners will be able to address your other questions.
Good Luck!
Jay
90 964
I'm not sure you would want to use an early 911 in our winter climate. All the salt they dump here will eat away at those non-zinc coated bodies pretty quickly. My previous 911, an '86, spent it's entire life with the prior owner here in Milwaukee and after 100,000 miles and many winters, it was starting to eat itself apart from the inside out. This was on a car that had a 10 year rust warranty.
I kept the car out of the weather for the 4 years I had it, but the tin worm kept working away. I'd hate to see what would happen to an early 911 after being subjected to all this salt...
Hopefully other early 911 owners will be able to address your other questions.
Good Luck!
Jay
90 964
#3
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Listen to the rust comment. Early 911 's rust without the salt. salt will destroy the car and many of the important areas too(suspension ect).
But, if you can get stored for the snow go for a 1973.5 CIS
Best bang for the buck and one of the best 911's of all time. Good looking, light, 915 trans, reliable 2.4 w/ reliable cis. smog exempt.
But, if you can get stored for the snow go for a 1973.5 CIS
Best bang for the buck and one of the best 911's of all time. Good looking, light, 915 trans, reliable 2.4 w/ reliable cis. smog exempt.
#4
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I just recently restored my '67 911S and I can say along with the others that you DO NOT want to drive that car in the winter - unless of course your planning on throwing the car into the salvage pile after a few years (which would cause me to track you down in Wis. and take your keys away). These cars are so vulnerable to rust that I don't even wash my car with water - pure brush/wax only. I would encourage you to buy an early 911 because they are a blast to drive but I would stick to dry skys and dry roads.
#5
Track Day
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Ooh.. I was afraid of that rust issue.
Maybe I should look into SC or mid 80s carrera.
But I am concerned that an 86' had such a problem? I thought post 77' 911s were "rust proof".
Maybe I should look into SC or mid 80s carrera.
But I am concerned that an 86' had such a problem? I thought post 77' 911s were "rust proof".
#6
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Bimmer:
Since 1976 or so, Porsche zinc coated all their bodies. I believe 1986 was the first year Porsche stepped up to a 10 year rust through warranty. Previously it was 7 (I think).
BUT, even though the metal bodies are treated with zinc, the zinc 'sacrifices' itself to protect the metal when coming in contact with corrosive agents (salt). The zinc turns into white powder, expands and ends up bubbling the paint. Sure, the metal below is fine, but your paint gets ruined by the zinc pockets. Scrape off the powdered zinc and the bare metal is exposed.
Also, the mechanicals suffer a lot from exposure to salt. Fittings, clamps, bolts, nuts and everything else corrodes and welds together or just plain deteriorates. It's definitely not much fun to work on a salt exposed car, especially one that is 15-35 years old already.
Rust Never Sleeps. Metal body cars are not rust proof.
Since all of these 911's are getting up there in age (most SC's qualify for classic plates in our state), it's darn hard to justify driving these cars year round. You just can't go down to the local dealership and have your pic of a dozen fresh SC's and 3.2 Carreras. Nice one's are hard to come by and I would think owners would want to keep them as nice as possible and skip all the problems that winter brings on. I cringe when I see an older 911 all slopped up from salt and road sand in the middle of January around here...(but that's just me...)
On the other hand, people do drive their 911's in poor conditions and the cars are excellent winter cars with the right tires. I would suggest a post 1976 911 if you do decide you want to drive a 911 year round. The zinc coated bodies do hold up much better.
Just my $.02.
Jay
90 964
Since 1976 or so, Porsche zinc coated all their bodies. I believe 1986 was the first year Porsche stepped up to a 10 year rust through warranty. Previously it was 7 (I think).
BUT, even though the metal bodies are treated with zinc, the zinc 'sacrifices' itself to protect the metal when coming in contact with corrosive agents (salt). The zinc turns into white powder, expands and ends up bubbling the paint. Sure, the metal below is fine, but your paint gets ruined by the zinc pockets. Scrape off the powdered zinc and the bare metal is exposed.
Also, the mechanicals suffer a lot from exposure to salt. Fittings, clamps, bolts, nuts and everything else corrodes and welds together or just plain deteriorates. It's definitely not much fun to work on a salt exposed car, especially one that is 15-35 years old already.
Rust Never Sleeps. Metal body cars are not rust proof.
Since all of these 911's are getting up there in age (most SC's qualify for classic plates in our state), it's darn hard to justify driving these cars year round. You just can't go down to the local dealership and have your pic of a dozen fresh SC's and 3.2 Carreras. Nice one's are hard to come by and I would think owners would want to keep them as nice as possible and skip all the problems that winter brings on. I cringe when I see an older 911 all slopped up from salt and road sand in the middle of January around here...(but that's just me...)
On the other hand, people do drive their 911's in poor conditions and the cars are excellent winter cars with the right tires. I would suggest a post 1976 911 if you do decide you want to drive a 911 year round. The zinc coated bodies do hold up much better.
Just my $.02.
Jay
90 964
#7
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If you're going with a traditional look 911 for winter driving, the only way to go is a Carrera 4 from the '89 vintage. They're great in snow, and the rustproofing is better than even the '76 to '89 regular 911s. (e.g., stainless exhaust hardware) Also, they're somewhat of a bargain, especially when you consider what you'll spend in maintenance running an earlier car year round.
The advice in this thread is truly sound. Even an SC or 3.2 Carrera will rust out, eventually, if exposed to salted roads.
The advice in this thread is truly sound. Even an SC or 3.2 Carrera will rust out, eventually, if exposed to salted roads.
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#8
Race Car
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THis brings up a question I have - I live in the temperate climate of Oklahoma but have been considering selling my 91 BMW 325i (very reliable) so I can drive my 1966 Porsche as a daily driver. How dependable are these cars and would my yearly maintenance be too expensive to handle on a limited budget? Are the heaters good enough to warm the car on a 30 degree day?
Joseph Mitro
OKC
Joseph Mitro
OKC
#9
Old School
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The heaters in our '73 are fantastic. They're better than my '98 BMW 528i. There's an advantage to running the heat exchangers through the exhaust system.