Dickran

I have a 1974 911 whose "normal" oil leaks have increased some causing the
smell of oil to come into the cabin of the car when the heat is used.
Otherwise just some spots on the garage floor.

My mechanic tells me the leakage is still in the "normal range" for a 1974.
He tells me there are small "normal leaks/breather leaks" at the valve
covers, at the ?cam covers, and most notably at the ?cam housing where
there is only a "painted on" gasket which is failing. In 1979 this
problem was supposedly cured by Porsche with an updated gasket but I have the "painted on" gasket material.

He tells me the engine "should" be resealed but its expensive (thousands)....
I'm only being bothered in
the cold weather because I need heat. Eventually he says it will get worse and
there will be no option.

I have the standard 2.7 liter cis fuel injected engine with AC, 11-blade fan, no smog, no reactors, pop-off valve in the air box, a fairly new Bursch muffler and 117,000 miles.

I am also told the leak is probably coming from pulled head studs, I have no proof of that but it seems to fit the reputation of the 2.7 liter.
Therefore a re-seal wouldnt even cure the problem.

The guys at Motor Meister seem to have a turn-key operation for re-building 911 engines. Anybody have any personal experience with them?

Dick

Bob's flat-six

Hi Dick: I haven't any personal experience with Motor Meister but if you do a search useing their name they have been a topic before.

Jeff Curtis

Dick, PLEASE look at some of your other options as well...no comment here. <img src="graemlins/icon501.gif" border="0" alt="[icon501]" />

There are plenty of shops in the business that can help you out with your issues. It is quite possible you have pulled head studs, but you can certainly verify this yourself by pulling your lower valve covers next time you change the oil...look for barrel nuts laying in your cam housings.

I know what you're talking about with the smell and using your heat...my '91 C2 was leaking like crazy! <img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" />

Good luck on your endeavors, look around a bit and soon the answer will come to you, just figure out what you're dealing with that's causing the leak in the first place...then pull out your wallet.

Mark Wilson..

Also do a search at PelicanParts.com for Motor Meister. You'll find all the info you need to make a decision.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

[quote]Originally posted by Dickran:
<strong>
The guys at Motor Meister seem to have a turn-key operation for re-building 911 engines. Anybody have any personal experience with them?

Dick</strong><hr></blockquote>

Hi Dick:

The very best advice I can give you is to stay FAR FAR away from Motor Meister.

If you do the homework & research as suggested by the others, you will learn why. Properly repairing a 2.7 is not cheap and you might consider installing a good used 3.0 from an SC.

Please feel free to contact me directly if you need further assistance.

Randy

Hi there, I see this is your first post, welcome. I have first hand experience with MM. My overall experience is a D-. Please do not subject yourself to MM. They mean well, but can't deliver. My personal opinion based on personal experience. Don't do it.

Dickran

Thanks all you guys I appreciate the advice and I will do some more searching around on MM's reputation as well as being sure if my head studs are pulling or these are just normal leaks I have to live with until an eventual re-build.

But I will say, I live on Long Island, the 2 places i checked for prices on re-builds seem to average about $4000 JUST in labor and more like $7000 with parts vs MM for $3000 + transport and + removal & re-install of engine which is about a $2500-3000 savings.

Obviously if a poor job is done the savings aren't worth it. Their concept tho seems so good tho....

Once again...Thanks....

Dick
74 2.7

emcon5

Another thing the MM price is based on being able to reuse all your parts. It just goes up from there.

Ron_H

Have you considered using Turbo lower rocker arm covers? They don't warp as easily. Might be an easy fix. The better fix is a 3.0liter. I have already spent about $2500 on my 2.7 case to remedy all the evil things a 3.0 doesn't have !!! <img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" /> <img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" />

Tom Dowling

Check my reply on the same topic you posted on the Pelican site....You should keep it local, you will have more satisfaction in the long run. Shipping a motor cross country is expensive.

fusionsport

In the east coast area I can recommend a couple of shops that do acceptable engine work- Carolina Speedwerks in North Carolina, Peter Dawe in Pennsylvania, and Paul Schwartz at Simtec in West Chester,PA(cant remember how he spells that). There are likely other good shops that can do a good job but these are the people that have a proven ability to deliver more or less on time and with realistic budgets. MM is a farce- they advertise low prices and quick turnaround but in reality they always seem to go over-budget and DO NOT have a good reputation for reliability.
Dropping in a 3litre is a good answer but acceptable units are getting harder to find- call professional dismantlers and let them know exactly what you are looking for and they will do their best to help out- after all it is how they are [aid. I would recommend Partsheaven, EASY, and PAP in no particular order. Every experience I have had with EASY has been wonderful as have my experiences with Partsheaven. All the above advertise profusely.

Dickran

Thanks again, I know of Parts Haven and PAP....

Ya know tho, I had the car out today and she ran fine & felt strong EXCEPT I smell gas / gas fumes around the car after stopping and for a while thereafter AND I CANT use my heat cuz when I pull up on the heater lever it smells like I'm getting exhaust fumes in the car....

My mechanic told me I had no gas leaks & the exhaust smell was the oil leaking on the heat exchangers...

I'm going to get a second opinion I think this next week...

Dick

Steve Zitelli

I had a 71 T that had the same problem,check your oil return tubes they are right above the heater boxes so they drip right on top of them.They make collapsable ones that can be installed without removing the engine. I changed mine and it solved the problem and I was able to use my heat again.As far as the 2.7,I recently brought a 76 euro with a well documented rebuilt done about 10yrs/40k ago and it cost $8500,but it was done right with all the upgrades.As far as replacing with a used 3.0,they have problems with broken headstuds so be careful and have it checked out.I think in some ways the 2.7 rebuilt properly has the advantage of being lighter with magnesium case.Anyway that just my 2 cents and I agree with everyone else about MM.

aquabat911

MM will tell you how they are going to save you thousnds of dollars because they do sooo many engines, and they buy and machine in bulk yadda yadda yadda. I ended up 10 grand in the hole with them when everything was said and done. I have talked to several people who were told the exact same things as I was. we can rebuild your motor for three thousnd dollars. Funny enugh, when MM got our engines they all had exactly the same problems and we all ended up paying 10 grand, plus I was without my car for six monthes, they lost my transmission(my 81 SC now has an 86 trans in it, without limited slip like the one I sent them) and they continualy lied to me. When I first told them that they had sent a different trans they tried to tell me I was lucky they werent charging me for shipping to get my trans back, then they still didnt send me my original trans, aparently it was lost forever. After spending 10K with MM I still had to pay another grand for my mechanic to try and install the rebuilt motor that had different equip,ent than when I sent it. DONT GO WITH MOTOR SCHEISTER!!!!

FLAT6FAN

Do a search on this board and Pelican Parts on MM. Everything says run the otherway.