ian

Well I am a sucker for fuchs, and when a set of 951 8s and 930 9s came up for sale they became a must have.

So the SC has a new pair of shoes, now to roll the fenders so I can drive with them on.

Ed Hughes

With that ride height, I'm not sure you have to worry about any interference.

Looks nice.

GothingNC

Just load a few cases of beer in the back seat

John

ian

Ed, I'm not going to take her down to your ride hight, but the back end of the car will be coming down when I get a chance to re-index the torsion bars. I have not had the pleasure of doing the torsion bars on a 911 yet, but it has to be easier than it was on a 944. I might get caught up with the "while you are in theres" and end up replacing the bars with something a little stiffer, I never have been able to leave things stock.

John, the 911 does make a great beer run car.

Ed Hughes

Bushing replacement minimum, and it isn't all that tough if you note where you start. Alignment afterward.

ian

Ed,

I read a "how to's" on the rear, and it did't seem too difficult. Keeping the same torsion bars it looks like I could get it done in a short afternoon if all goes to plan (which it never does). What wheel combo are you running on Ruby?

whalebird

I LOVE that Fuchs combo on 911s. Yes, the Tbars are easier on the 911 simply because the bars just come out the side of the car. As Ed says, yes, plan on bushings - at least the neatrix spring plate ones. If I may add, when upgrading Tbars, of course, one is raising the spring rate. Plan on including a matched shock valving as well. Sure, put the bigger springs in now, but a set of Koni or Bilsteins will balance the package in the end and is a critical to the package.

Shannon123

Great looking car....what interior color do you have in her ?

rusnak

That's a very pretty SC.

Ed Hughes

Yep, you'll be fine. Getting the t-bar out MAY involve some cursing, but most come out pretty well. You'll want to make sure the surface is intact-no scratches or corrosion, and inspect the tunnel where the sit to make sure it looks good. Slather the bars in good HD grease before they go back in. IF, and only IF you ever think you want to upgrade, do it now-even some mild increase in spring rate could help keep the car stable, depending on your driving habits. As Whale says, a spring increase should coincide with a shock revalve-Bilsteins are pretty economical to do this to-but you could do the t-bars now and do the shocks at a later time. If you re-use the old bars, make sure you put them back in the same side!

Look at Elephant Racing's rubber bushing replacement, for "stock" refresh, they seem like the hot ticket, but I love my Poly-Bronzes from them too!

I have forged "Fachs" (repros) 17's X 7.5/9.

ian

It is just black, the RS door panels have silver door pulls that the only deviation from the factory color. Some new carpet could be a project for next winter, that and a backseat delete.

The t-bars were out not too long ago (2 years) when the PO attempted to drop it to euro hight. So I am hopeful that the cursing will be kept to a minimum. And I have been looking at Elephant Racing's stuff, one could do a lot of damage on the credit card trying to upgrade the suspension.

I thought about going with the repos instead of the original Fuchs, but when these popped up I mad the impulse buy. But who is to say I cannot have two set of wheels for her? (My wife says so, something about granite counter tops).

Edgy01

It's a beautiful look--like it was always supposed to look. Fender contact will probably only on the left front. Also, the tire type will determine the issue--due to sidewall height. Now get some vaseline on them.

Ed Hughes

The Elephant rubber versions aren't expensive. The forged Repros will do damage to the credit card, but there are cast versions much cheaper. Personally, on a 911, I think the forged are the way to go, or as in your case, Fuchs. Just be careful and inspect them carefully. Some are starting to show their age and past use/abuse.

rusnak

The rear torsion bars should be greased up really well, and they'll come out easily in the future. Setting rear ride height is an iterative process/ trial and error if you're chaning the spring rate or replacing bushings. I think you get around 1.5 degrees of rotation at each step by rotating the outter spline, and counter rotating the inner spline. Then the final adjustment is done with the eccentric ride height bolt at the front of the springplate. You'd need the thin ride height wrench, and you might want to initially break loose the pinch bolt on the springplate with an impact socket and impact wrench before going for it with the thin wrench. It can be done in a weekend, both sides.

I used the Neatrix rubber bushings, but next time I plan on going with the Elephant ones. I also would grease the rubber bushings rather than glue them. The harder rubber does not offer up much flexion, so the glue tends to break loose, causing some funky ride height and corner balance issues until they break in and get loose.