Doyle, I was debating whether or not to post, because the phillips screw is pretty much the only thing iirc, holding the tumbler in. I didn't want to stress you out.

I remove my door handle with a 10mm small combination wrench, and a 10mm socket on an extension. I don't recall the exact combination of tools, but the door handle comes out easily with the window up. You may have to re-install the window switch to get the glass out of the way. Once the door handle is on your workbench, the cleaning, lubrication, and re-installation of the tumbler will be easy. I agree with a drop of Loctite. I hope you can find the centering spring, because they are not available separately. In fact, if anyone has a spare....I could use one.

 

Yup...the little screw holds it all together (tumbler) and yes pull the assy out with the key inserted, you can slowly remove the key whilst holding all the pins together. Once the key is out, the parts can fall out, but a little logic gets them back together(the little springs are the most elusive). I will have to look at a diagram before I post...I'm sorry if I've confused you Doyle.

 

not at all,..keep it coming...thanks for the input guys....

 

Thanks, Rusnak. You're a gentleman and scholar.

Switches have been dropped and the panel rests within the front seats! Waiting on parts right now...should be here for some weekend re-engagement. As mentioned, my visual on those door nuts was surprising. The only hardware in that door that looked real rusty,...I coated them with Krol before buttoning up the last work session this past weekend. Clearly, I'm gonna' use some fresh hardware in there on reassembly. I just hope they turn easily come repair time, as they've not been touched thus far.

That tumbler sure looks like it will slide right out of the door handle. It sounds like you guys are telling me that I should (also) remove this cylinder (with a key inserted) and clean. Is this really necc'y? Could I not clean it whilest in position? I guess I'll get to learn more about this ***'y but DO want to be careful as to NOT send SMALL parts flying about!!!!

As noted, I never saw any serrated washer ANYWHERE (that's stated to be used on the philips screww,..guess I'll have to go get one of those from the hardware store. The "centering" spring (as noted) had one leg cocked out of position but was easily repositioned within its detente.

A dab of Locktite will be used on that philips, for sure. I'm still pissed that I couldn't find my SMALL offset, as I'm convinced it would have worked. I reordered that tool (BTW) but now feel that I need to remove the handle just to get things cleaned up, fresh H/W and bottoned down.

The rest is to inspect (closely) everything in that frikin' door BEFORE I install the fresh moisture barrier.......lube where needed,.....caig cleaner, where needed,....

I hate waiting on parts..............the "waiting is the hardest part"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Happy Holidays to ALL!!!!!!!!!!


Doyle

 

Well: parts hit the doorstep today...fresh moisture barrier, new door handle plastic pieces,..spare male/female pieces for the door panel clips (just in case). Will have to go get the needed hardware for the door handle nuts and this serrated washer (I assume this washer to go under the philips screw). Hope to get to it today and get her buttoned back up for road work!!1...we've an oil change for tomorrow and I'll get a better look at the fuel lines where they enter the tunnel in prep for the rubber line replacements.

best to all,

Doyle

 

The center fuel lines can be frustrating. I think the metal to rubber/plastic union is handled by a threaded lug that is crimped on, similar to the engine fuel lines. It's been about 3 years since I did this, so memory may not serve. If you can get better access with the seats or console out, you might consider that.

 

Thanks for the reply, Rusnak. When we have her in the air tomorrow, I'll better look at the situation....only the rubber line pressure side crimp has a leak. I think I've a pic from another thread somewhere that may show the connecting methodology used on the rubber to hardline union...Secondly, I'll need to LOCATE WHERE this union happens. Since I don't recollect it being obvious when I first looked into the leak, something may have been obvious OR obscure (i.e.,: rubber disappears into the firewall),..I just don't remember. I've yet to see a nice drawing on where this in the car,..therein my confusion, thus far. It's on one side of the wall or the other,..THAT's for sure,..so if I need to remove interiors, I will. I'm gonna fix this one MYSELF one way or another. I'll try to find the pic so that you may comment on what I'm suspecting it to be..

I spoke with my wrench this past weekend regarding the issue,..I told him the piece comes as one piece, both hard and soft fuel lines but I'd prefer to look at a soft line only resolution. He stated that the process of replacing both lines would involve an engine drop, as he would not take the chance of exact routing.,..but he had the Porsche soft lines and could "look at it"...I sensed some bucks for him to repair it. I know that several posters here and over on PP have done this repair, both soft lines only and complete rerun on the hardlines (snaking it) through the tunnel succesfully....


I hope I've time to get the door put to bed today....we'll see.

Thanks again for the input...

 

I'm glad I don't do this for a living.......what an aggravating day in that driver side door.

Embarrassing enough, I bet I spent 5 hours on that car today dealing with one thing after another,..to include being an idiot, while attempting a simple repair of the lock cylinder. No doubt (agreed) that door handle has to come off to get that screw back in EXCEPT if you own a really super low profile philips offset (I do,..but have no idea where she is...)...I hate that I'm to ramble with no pics (Ed will own me.)


Door handle came off with no drama. Could access the 2 nuts (in the door) with my tools....tight but doable. I kept a key IN the lock cylinder at all times, BTW. I slowly removed the cylinder from the handle, noticing many small spring loaded tumblers just waiting for me to make a mistake and send things flying...what a dirty assembly...cleaned her..WD40,..air dry,..TriFlowed.... Upon extraction several semi-circular rubber-like pieces came out,..I assume there's an o-ring (of sorts) that resides in there, helping to center the cylinder? When I turned the handle upside down, out came a plastic tabbed, cylindrical piece that the cylinder attaches to within the handle.

I would note that the lever arm assembly (which is what loosened) is what's attached to the cylinder. This "assembly is comprised of 2 pieces that mate together. the outer portion of this 2 part assembly has actual gear teeth that cover a small adjustable distance, that mate with alternate gear teeth on the alternate piece......pretty wild....I found it to be centered and reassembled accordingly....There (also) exists a spring within the tail end that apparently assists with making the cylinder position back to center...(as Rusnak mentioned) ............there are detents that hold this spring in place so it's easy to make sure of the spring's proper position. A bit of lockTite on that damned philips and reintalled door handle with fresh door handle gaskets...then (dumbarse me) went to LALA land. I'm sitting there, attempting to lock the damned door and wondering why the assembly is not driving.....I spent a frikin' hour looking at what was holding it then realizing that the door is OPEN,..what do you expect?!?!?!?!? DUH... Back to me senses....Lubed everything I could get to with Lithium grease..inspected ALL connections/harnesses..Caig coated the electricals...looked at the crossover connections/tightened. Installed the new moisture barrier....it does not come with any adhesive,..so be prepared. Standing back admiring the work, I glance over to the grassy knoll and see this frikin' plastic cover that I had forgotten' to install. It's a piece that covers the door locking assembly and other springed devices..held on by 2 philips////strange-shaped cover....and a pain to figure out after having taken a week's break.....after throwing my screwdriver into the ground (yes,..INTO), I began a rework , requiring re-removal of the door panel and barrier. Now I'm getting a bit flustered and mad at myself for not paying attention. Get the piece back in (after a REAL rubik's cube experience, taking forever),..redo the damned barrier,..get the panel and stuff all back where it belongs.

All is working OK for now, but I can occassionally get a hang when inserting my key to attempt a lock..seemingly a bit offended at the movement, or lack thereof. Same will happen on an unlock attempt....I would mention that the key used today is the original and quite worn....I'm gonna' try some of the sharper sets I have just to compare.......

(trying to save the day for the old world man.........)

Clouds are coming,..getting late,..finished the last screw,..hopped in (after a full week of Porsche abstinence),..and consumed an hour of twisties....stopped to get gas on the way home...then the door handle's plastic piece (that attaches to the arm in the door) pops off,...I'm out with a frikin flashlite looking for this piece,...find it,..do my "alterations..reinstall,..gas up,..head home....arrive,...hit the hadle: same results,..flashlight required.....this SOB won't let go of me today!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Off to look through my stock for this plastic piece.....I installed new handles a while back and replaced the existing plastic pieces with fresh plastic.....now I'm wondering if I should now look for the old ones that I removed, as the ones in there now are a nogo.....OR: get new ones...

WINDOW MOVES VERY SMOOTHLY!!!!!!!!!! Car's running REALLY well!!!!!!!!!!!!

I guess I need to research this rubber o-ring piece that may reside within the lock cylinder, as things are far from perfect....quite like my day....

Oh well,..gave her the good try.

Did I mention the pesky circlips on the door handle? Had to chase those 4 times today........in the driveway...they blend into the concrete....I bet I wasted 30 minutes today looking for frikin'circlips...

,..and a fuel leak awaits me....

Best,

Doyle

 

Damn

 

I need to verify that I don't have a marginal key (original).....Otherwise, I'm thinking of the lock cylinder as a problem source OR the missing rubber concentric pieces (o-ring, of sorts) that came out in 4 separate pieces......

Something's not happy....ready to be found, for sure.

I'll let you guys know of the key changes, for information purposes. Hell,..tumbers can only do what the key tells them?......OR,..it's another (physical) piece that's causing the intermittentness (sp?) of the the key mechanical commands.......

All I know is today's drive was great!!!!!!!!!!!! And overdue, at that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks,

Doyle

 

I guess the good thing is that I haven't had a need to (yet) engage the $$$ P-wrench......with which this NG helps out!

Thanks, GUYS!!!!!!!!!

 

I keep a supply of the white plastic piece that holds the door acuating arm to the inner door handle. Those break. I also have a bunch of the seat release levers.

 

I will, too (from now on)......key will have a catch now and then, either direction,..and a bit of resistance....looks like I'll be back in there at some point......

Man she ran great this AM!!!!!!

Best,

Doyle