Youch,....just to post that I noticed that today's key insertion allowed for full travel (L or R) from it's "normal" stops within the cylinder. Careful actuation (position) will make things work just fine. Posts review seem to indicate that it could be (SIMPLY) a retaining Philips screw...I sure hope so........would be happy for the magnet to attract such a simple fix (from the bottom o0f the door)!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Time to get the panel off for the first time, and have a good look. As all knows, one would be most prudent to review the "while you're in there" stuff and ensure those parts are in hand (new plastic membrane, in example).

Some reading/research to do......Should anyone have experience (1989) on some parts to changeout preventively,..go for it.

Thanks to ALL!!!!!!!!

Best,

Doyle

 

You should be able to re-glue the old one back on with contact cement. Probably clean and re-grease the lock/handle, and re-torque the doorstop bolts. You might want to flush the door hinge pin with a little wd-40, using the straw into the lubrication hole, while holding a rag underneath the hinge to catch the outflow.

 

Yes Doyle, the Philips screw is loose, if it was all the way out the bit it holds on would fall off and then you would not be able to lock/unlock the door with the key.

Make sure that the little spring is still there also. It's the spring that helps to center the key after you have locked or unlocked the door.
There should be a little counter sunk serrated washer under the head of the screw. Stops it from working it's way out after tightening. When you put it back in apply a small amount of thread adhesive. Loctite etc.

It's an easy fix if all the parts are still there in the door.

 

Thanks guys. We'll see what we have this weekend.

Happy-T-day to all!!!!!!!!!

 

All is hanging in there so far,..drove her to work today,..and a few (long) errands> VERY careful with the throw of the key while in the cylinder.....I work it with cringes in my face....but it works perfectly. Lotsa' slop (however)----DUH? I keep thinking that I will ultimately MAKE something come completely loose WHILE driving.......then, we've another matter,....no?

Am hoping for simply fix come T-day! I just couldn't resist driving her today!!!!!!!!!!! Nice and cool out! Man,..this engine likes THAT!

Thanks (again), to all.

Best,

Doyle

 

Just my .02- rusnak has some good thoughts, but personally, I feel WD40 sucks as a lubricant. It will go gummy and cause more harm than good in short order. I'd use spray Silicone.

 

+1 I agree, but it's cumbersome to post what I really do on mine, which is to flush the hinge pin out with some electronic parts cleaner, blow it dry, then squirt some liquid Tri Flow through the little clear straw. Just saying WD-40 is easier and faster - I'm lazy I know!

 

Took this as the tail end task for the day (big mistake)....what a pain, but I'm sure it's more me than anything. Worked on the little truck today and it beat me up.......

On the Porsche: a quick ICV clean, fresh dist cap/rotor, fresh belt, inspection, engine bottom cleaning,..fresh plugs,...fresh DME relay,...........then on to finish the day with a simple Philips screw install on a door lock cylinder.......(yeah, right!!!!!!!!)

FIRST, let me say that the above post from psychoideas was very helpful.

Door panel came off without a hitch, exposing the nice barrier (very clean, appearing to be factory)..was able to peal back the left side (driver door, BTW) enough to see inside. Damaged the barrier with a few tears. Took a little while to see what the deal was. Clearly the assembly that attaches to the lock cylinder was loose and flopping around. I really should of taken care of this when she first showed me the looseness.....as I'm convinced (THEN) that the philips screw was only "loose".....frikin around and waiting another couple of weeks provided me with a screw that had backed out (completely) from the very assembly Psychoideas mentioned. I did not see any serrated washer anywhere! Is it a very low profile washer?

It's one tight **** area up there and door allowed no access to the screw from the outside if the inner part of the door. There were a few access holes there but NONE were even close to hitting this philips dead on.

I inserted a a key into the lock assembly and left it there throughtout the process. I removed the lever assembly (nasty) and cleaned/lubed her up. The spring had lifted on one side only so I repositioned it back where it belonged. Now to get this SOB back in,.,...........

I found the area too tight to use any tools I had to get that screw started! The Bentley doesn't mentioned having to remove the vertical plastic cover but one will quickly learn that you must...STILL: I could get the inner assembly lined up with the lock assembly but no way were these big hands gonna' grab any piece of the screww,..I could get on it but not enough screw height to tighten. I tried my offsets and I guess I need a smaller sized one (couldn't find my electronic shop one, as it's VERY small),..as there was no room to position the tool. I even tried the Philips tip ONLY (from the kit) and couldn't get on the damned screw. Dropped that screw a few times, with one drop requiring damned near 20 minutes to find...had to take a break and go inside for a few minutes, but found it (visually) in the most precarious position (this finding after wraking a frikin' magnet around everywhere to no avail,........Porsches have the BEST hiding places for fallen hardware............).

It's time to wrap up, so I lube a few things (used Triflow and Lithium grease). Out of all of the observed hardware, ONLY the bolts attaching the handles showed rust. My last observation (before admitting defeat tonight) was that (possibly) the door handle can come out and one can maneuver the assembly out that way to get screw tightened? Not wanting (nor having time) to take another step (coward), I decided that I would pause [for now] and assess the deal (either smaller offset or a different approach to this damned screw!!) I made sure I hit the rusty looking bolts on the handle with Krol for the evening.

I'm thinking the "pause" will allow for further time to look at everything in that door. A few electrical observations for now:

as to the window switches, I noticed an eversoslight darkening of a few wires, however the wires seem ok....I suspected (long ago) that these wires were due to pssible resistive switch contacts and immediately installed new switches throughout (back when I first bought her). AGAIN,..it's quite subtle, yet indicative.....I'd make sure you have fresh switches in these cars,..circuit's fused but why heat the wire? Just an observation...I've yet to look closely at all wiring/connectors.

All looks quite clean in there...I hope to get a camera soon and post some pics for 1989 RL owners (and where applicable on any other models) I'm thinking strip the moisture barrier,...inspect as much as possible (window assembly, motor, power door lock,...plastic rollers..rails......time to go ****)

The real pisser is that I didn't get to take her out after the OTHER work (which I ALWAYS do)...........patiences isn;t a virtue, while having the door panel and trimmins in the seats and floorboard...........she's undercover 'till next session...

Have you guys bought Poly locally and successfully used doubleside tape for the moisture barrier install? (vs. ordering product).

Sorry to ramble,...but wanted to post the trails and tribulations.......if I was a real mechanic, I'd already have this done (barrier and all).............in addition to the clutch, pressure plate and TO bearing on the '97 NISSAN P/U!!!!!!!

I'm BEAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PsychoIdeas,..thanks AGAIN for the input (sounds like you've been down this road) , and all input from other RL's, as ALWAYS!!!!!!!!!!!!....

Back to the rodeo tomorrow,..enjoyed the Holiday time off.

Best to all,..and goodnight!

 

I'm ever so sorry, please find it in your rennlist encrusted heart to forgive me, but........I should have told you to take the door handle out of the door first.

Two nuts from inside the door will release the handle.
These two nuts are troublesome in their own right. Take your time and use small spanner inputs. I tried but couldn't get a little socket onto mine.

Once undone the handle needs to be carefully removed as it has that "door lock" thing that the screw holds on.

Good luck

 

No worries Frank. Actually glad to hear it, as I felt a bit of an underachiever!!!!!! It just looked like you'd have to take that handle off or have one helluva microscopic offset screwdriver.

Is there a seal or gasket of sorts that sits behind the handle (between handle and car body) that will need replacing?

Thanks,

Doyle

 

Only the seals that are visible from the outside.

Look at them on pelican.

911-531-632-00-M260

911-531-631-00-M260

 

I think I'll get these on order today, along with a new moisture barrier. Best to be prepared.

What type of "spanner" did you have to use to get to that far left nut? Not familiar with this....I mean, I've seen larger spanner wrenches but don't have any small stuff in my toolbag.............I noticed you mentioned the inability to get a small socket and wrench up in there.............

I DO appreciate your help, bro'.

Thanks!

Doyle

 

OHH so close. The door handle comes out very easy at the point you were at. IIRC, the black plastic plugs inside the door sill(above the latch) can be removed and you will see the screw heads. Once the linkage (to the lock and latch) inside is removed, you can remove the door handle. I may have a couple of those little screws is you find you need them(the small ones holding the tumbler in the handle) and a little spring as well.
Snake the door handle out carefully and do replace the little seals posted above upon reassembly.
When you get the handle/tumbler assembly on the bench, we will help you get the tumbler out, clean it all up and reassemble. It is easy.

 

Hi Whale,

yours must be different to mine as my door handle is in no way attached to the striker assembly.

Doyle,

Look inside the door to your handle and determine if it's attached to the lock mechanism in any way.

I just used a small open end spanner (10 I think, maybe 9 or 8. I can't remember) and worked on it slowly. It doesn't take long.

 

WOW...interesting footnotes. I'm gonna' have to get some pics for you guys...

pasted from Bird: ""The door handle comes out very easy at the point you were at"". Yes,..I could see the 2 bolts that seemed to lock in the studs from the handle assembly after peeling back the moisture barrier. As PI noted, one is WAY the hey up in there. As I was not looking at removing the handles (DUH!) , I didn't look for any access holes provided by the factory, and don't recall any that provided access to the upper left bolt for the door handle. IIRC, the black plastic plugs inside the door sill(above the latch) can be removed and you will see the screw heads. I'll look. Once the linkage (to the lock and latch) inside is removed, you can remove the door handle. This HAS to be the very piece (2-part assembly) that PI was referring to, as this "assembly (w/ arm) certainly attaches to the lock cylinder via the pesky (loosened) philips screw. I figure to remove the handle,..reattach the assembly to the lock cylinder by tightening (after slightly locktightening) THEN pipe the entire door handle assembly back into position. I may have a couple of those little screws is you find you need them(the small ones holding the tumbler in the handle) and a little spring as well. Bird, I haven't yet removed the lock cylinder from the door handle so I don't know of any retaing crews associated with the lock cylinder. I CAN tell you that the lock cylinder seems as though it would easily come out without the philips (missing/untightened) philips screww there to hold it in....looks to be the only thing that holds it all together.
Snake the door handle out carefully and do replace the little seals posted above upon reassembly. Ordered today!
When you get the handle/tumbler assembly on the bench, we will help you get the tumbler out, clean it all up and reassemble. It is easy. I've never messed with tumblers before (sadly). I have read up on it and know to keep that frikin' key in there should that cylinder see daylight,..somehow (soas) to keep the little pieces lined up where they need to be. Does stuff "pop" outward if one takes that lock cylinder completely out?

Yes, Frank: SLOWLY!!!!!!!! Would you know the bolt size for the door handles? I will surely replace what's there with some fresh hardware. As well, I guess I need to get the serrated washer from the hardware store, too. HAVE NOT found that bugger anywhere.

Thanks to all,

Doyle