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Battery, alternator or neither?

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Old 03-08-2010, 09:33 PM
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whalebird
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How did you test the battery? Did you take it out of the car and take it to be tested? Or did you jump the car and drive it to be tested?
Bottom line, tomorrow morning check the voltage (I'm assuming you have a volt meter) on DCV or direct currrent voltage and if it reads less than 12 volts - warranty it - it's dead. Get a new battery and let us know.
I can honestly say that a 3 year old battery with occasional use is most likely dead. They can test good in many scenarios, especially after a jump start. It's old enough and suspect in my mind - just replace it while the warranty is still valid. Most Interstate batteries have a 2 year free replacement and a prorated(by age) replacement thereafter. It may have a 3 year free replacement. Look into it.
If you have any reservations about working on your car, by all means have a qualified shop look after it.
Battery failure rate is alarmingly high around 40% in new batteries.
If you have any further problems, you can now elimanate the battery.
Keep us posted.
Old 03-09-2010, 09:29 PM
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2qwik4u
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I did not have to jump it, it started right up because I jumped it the day prior. So I drove it to my mechanic, he checked it and said its good.
I do not have a volt meter, does pep boys sell them, expensive?

thanks
Old 03-09-2010, 10:25 PM
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KILRWAIL
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For $35 or less you can buy a digital multimeter at any chain auto parts store. While you're there, buy a quick disconnect power switch to put on your negative battery terminal. When the car's going to be parked for any length of time, disconnect the ground. Ya, your clock will be wrong and you'll have to reprogram the stereo, but so what? If you do need a new battery, I strongly endorse Optima. They're more expensive, but they're powerful and don't lose a charge easily. Mine was disconnected for five months in an unheated garage and was still at 70% when I checked. I went through exactly the same problem as you are and it turned out to be a two-year old battery that simply didn't have the required amperage anymore. Good luck!
Old 03-10-2010, 08:58 PM
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pingman
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Or you could buy a trickle charger for 35 bucks and keep your battery warm in the winter and fully charged all the time. I have the same problem on an '86. Yes to the purists who say find the problem. I respectfully agree. But, there are so many things that it could be, what am I going to screw up looking for a bad wire, ground, light switch, blaupunkt runaround, yankee doodle dandy friggin fog light relay. I am a dumbass when it comes to electrical goblins. I bought a trickle charger and sweetheart starts every time even after sitting for a month. I actually put one on my '87 that has no problem just to extend the lift of the battery and minimize the possibility of problems. The '86 has an optima and the '87 has an interstate. I am happy with both. Just wanted to add my little bit this evening. Mark
Old 03-10-2010, 09:04 PM
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Ed Hughes
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^^ To me, giving advice to ignore an electrical fault is faulty. Like saying the oil pressure light only comes on at low RPM's. Wanting to know one's car's faults s not a "purist" thing, it is the smart thing.
Old 03-10-2010, 09:24 PM
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whalebird
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I still contend your battery is the problem. I understand if you feel this may not be the problem given it's behavior. I can tell you that a battery flys under the radar in many failure modes. You said it was three years old and thats pushing it for lifespan. You can get a new batttery under warranty - and it's time for one anyway. Do this before you get into a nasty diagnosis of a current draw. Current draws are rare in the average car.
Old 03-10-2010, 09:31 PM
  #22  
Ed Hughes
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I agree. My point was to continue to find the issue, whatever it may be.
Old 03-10-2010, 11:32 PM
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rusnak
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Originally Posted by whalebird
I can tell you that a battery flys under the radar in many failure modes.
That's very true.



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