Ruby's Rebuild Redux
04-27-2010, 03:14 AM
#196
Instructor
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Sydney, Australia
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Just read this thread from start to finish!
What inspiration! Fantastic project, thread and engine! Whilst I don't own an 911, and won't for several years (just out of school) it's fascinating learning about these amazing vehicles. It's so helpful, even for dreamers like me! Maybe one day soon I'll try my hand at a project like this, but for now let me say congratulations
Can't wait to see the dyno results and feedback on how 'Ruby' is to drive with this new beast inside of her!
What inspiration! Fantastic project, thread and engine! Whilst I don't own an 911, and won't for several years (just out of school) it's fascinating learning about these amazing vehicles. It's so helpful, even for dreamers like me! Maybe one day soon I'll try my hand at a project like this, but for now let me say congratulations
Can't wait to see the dyno results and feedback on how 'Ruby' is to drive with this new beast inside of her!
04-27-2010, 03:27 PM
#198
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Portland, OR
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Great Thread, Thanks for sharing.
I love the Blue on Silver 911.
I have a itch and I that I need to scratch............ I will own a 80's 911 one day...... Hopefully soon or I need to get some Ointment
I love the Blue on Silver 911.
I have a itch and I that I need to scratch............ I will own a 80's 911 one day...... Hopefully soon or I need to get some Ointment
05-01-2010, 12:02 AM
#199
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
"D" is for distributor, and "I" is for interference. The one M8 stud is too long to clear the dual distributor. So, out came the stud, and in went a hex bolt. I thought I'd have to cut down the boss on the chain cover, but it fits with .090" to spare!
Second on the list is the air outlet plate. This is an aftermarket FG piece for a backdate. But, a little heat and a ball peen to make an indentation made it clear the dizzy. Then, some new resin on the existing mat. I'll paint it in the morning.
Lastly, the stock heat hose pass-thru is now useless. I was going to make a sandwich cover for it, but the dizzy actually sticks down through it. So, I need to make a cup-shaped piece that will rivet on from the bottom. I used the stock rubber sleeve as a "mold" and made a new FG piece to go here. I'll trim it tomorrow and bond on some mounting tabs, and then paint. May not be pretty, but it'll keep grime from coming up through the hole. I'll use a hole saw to cut a new penetration for the heater duct. I plan on having heat again.
Then, tomorrow I'll make some brackets to mount two of these Jacobs coils in the stock coil location-they should fit. Next, I'll install and wire the DME splitter.
Then, I'll run the plug wires, and I "should" be pretty much ready to install the engine-but I'm sure I'll find a few more tasks. Close!
Second on the list is the air outlet plate. This is an aftermarket FG piece for a backdate. But, a little heat and a ball peen to make an indentation made it clear the dizzy. Then, some new resin on the existing mat. I'll paint it in the morning.
Lastly, the stock heat hose pass-thru is now useless. I was going to make a sandwich cover for it, but the dizzy actually sticks down through it. So, I need to make a cup-shaped piece that will rivet on from the bottom. I used the stock rubber sleeve as a "mold" and made a new FG piece to go here. I'll trim it tomorrow and bond on some mounting tabs, and then paint. May not be pretty, but it'll keep grime from coming up through the hole. I'll use a hole saw to cut a new penetration for the heater duct. I plan on having heat again.
Then, tomorrow I'll make some brackets to mount two of these Jacobs coils in the stock coil location-they should fit. Next, I'll install and wire the DME splitter.
Then, I'll run the plug wires, and I "should" be pretty much ready to install the engine-but I'm sure I'll find a few more tasks. Close!
05-01-2010, 07:15 PM
#201
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
OK, who was the genius who said the engine was done? 
It's the details that take time. First of all, I finished my little fiberglas cup that covers the old HVAC penetration thru the tin. It isn't the prettiest thing, but it fits PERFECT and is held on by a couple of pop rivets. No crud getting up onto the distributor or in the engine bay. My air duct mod also cleared the dizzy just enough.
Next, I cut a 3" lightening hole in the tin as part of the new diet. Actually, it is for the new heat duct. I also had to cut down the u-pipe and mounted it to the heater boxes on the headers via brand new PorcheOEM silicone sleeves. So much nicer and supportive than SCAT duct....
As mentioned before, one of my goals is to have "some" heat, if not at least some defrost for those foggy mornings blasting up the coast.
Then, it was more than two hours of routing the 12 wires. If I have to look at one more guide loop or grommet, I'm gonna barf. It is tight-tight-tight running fully assembled wires through small holes-the boots only get so small, it takes a lot of perserverance and a bit of silicone spray. The wires I got are going to be temporary. At about $500 a set, these came with my dizzy for pretty cheap. But, the lengths weren't ideal and I've got some top plugs on one dizzy cap, and some on the other-same for the bottoms. Since they fire simultaneously, I don't think it's an issue-it just bugs me. I had to do this due to the lengths. Lastly, the bottom boots are the long ones, and won't allow me to use my RSR bottom wire retainers. I'm going to safety wire them in for now to make sure they don't pop off-but they do seem to be on securely.
Last of all, I put my oil hoses on, including a replacement for the one with the check valve-found a crack on the old one.
With the exception of the starter and the new O2 sensor (I've got to splice some wire extensions in-so much for buying the "proper" one when you you have headers), I think this one is DONE!
It's the details that take time. First of all, I finished my little fiberglas cup that covers the old HVAC penetration thru the tin. It isn't the prettiest thing, but it fits PERFECT and is held on by a couple of pop rivets. No crud getting up onto the distributor or in the engine bay. My air duct mod also cleared the dizzy just enough.
Next, I cut a 3" lightening hole in the tin as part of the new diet. Actually, it is for the new heat duct. I also had to cut down the u-pipe and mounted it to the heater boxes on the headers via brand new PorcheOEM silicone sleeves. So much nicer and supportive than SCAT duct....
As mentioned before, one of my goals is to have "some" heat, if not at least some defrost for those foggy mornings blasting up the coast. Then, it was more than two hours of routing the 12 wires. If I have to look at one more guide loop or grommet, I'm gonna barf. It is tight-tight-tight running fully assembled wires through small holes-the boots only get so small, it takes a lot of perserverance and a bit of silicone spray. The wires I got are going to be temporary. At about $500 a set, these came with my dizzy for pretty cheap. But, the lengths weren't ideal and I've got some top plugs on one dizzy cap, and some on the other-same for the bottoms. Since they fire simultaneously, I don't think it's an issue-it just bugs me. I had to do this due to the lengths. Lastly, the bottom boots are the long ones, and won't allow me to use my RSR bottom wire retainers. I'm going to safety wire them in for now to make sure they don't pop off-but they do seem to be on securely.
Last of all, I put my oil hoses on, including a replacement for the one with the check valve-found a crack on the old one.
With the exception of the starter and the new O2 sensor (I've got to splice some wire extensions in-so much for buying the "proper" one when you you have headers), I think this one is DONE!
05-01-2010, 11:17 PM
#203
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Nice job Ed. Thank goodness I only have 6 wires to deal with on my rebuild. Have gotten past the sprocket alignment step. Ready to time cames next weekend!
TBP
TBP
05-02-2010, 12:24 AM
#205
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'm going to blast off into orbit if I don't get behind the wheel soon!
05-02-2010, 10:52 AM
#207
Team Owner
05-02-2010, 12:33 PM
#208
Very well done Ed, Rog said it best, we sure do with we could stop by and have a beer while looking at that thing.
05-02-2010, 07:23 PM
#210
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I feel like I'm dragging, but I did work diligently for about 5 hours today:
1. Got to use the welder AND the drill press. I made a couple of brackets for my coils. I tell you, 1/2 an hour was spent pondering the design. I was going to try and use the existing studs, but it would have been more complicated and a bit tight. These are the times when I have the ULTIMATE in respect for guys that build race cars. The fab stuff takes time.
2. I then lowered her down to get the seat out. I was tempted to sit it in and make loud engine noises, but I didn't. I swear. Now that it's out, I can also wash the inside of the rear window-it's been a year or more!
3. Then it was on to the splitter. I almost decided to stop and drink beer and fire up a Cuban, as I just didn't feel like screwing with electrical. But, I forged on. This isn't for the mild or the meek. You open up the DME bundle, pick a green wire, hope it's the right one.....and snip! Actually, there were three green wires, but only one that was 14 ga- the others were smaller. I checked continuity with the - wire going to the coil. It's nice to get confirmation from the voltmeter that you cut the right one. Andial's wiring diagram also dictates that you snip the black + wire to the coil, and there are three black wires in that bundle, but they looked too small.
After some internal debate, I decided it wasn't there. I then looked at the bundle coming from the front under the seat rail, the + wire is through the ignition switch, so this made sense to me. I opened it up, and found a likely suspect. I used a probe to penetrate the insulation as I wasn't totally sure I was hunting in the right spot. Checked the continuity with my big jumper to the + coil lead, and saw I hit paydirt again. So, I made up the wiring for the cuts I made, and ran them to the splitter. I ony need to run two new coils leads back for coil #2, and a ground wire, and it's a wrap. But, that is for later this week, I finally caved in on the beer and cigar, after all it's Sunday.
4. I installed the coils on their new perches.
1. Got to use the welder AND the drill press.
I made a couple of brackets for my coils. I tell you, 1/2 an hour was spent pondering the design. I was going to try and use the existing studs, but it would have been more complicated and a bit tight. These are the times when I have the ULTIMATE in respect for guys that build race cars. The fab stuff takes time. 2. I then lowered her down to get the seat out. I was tempted to sit it in and make loud engine noises, but I didn't. I swear. Now that it's out, I can also wash the inside of the rear window-it's been a year or more!
3. Then it was on to the splitter. I almost decided to stop and drink beer and fire up a Cuban, as I just didn't feel like screwing with electrical. But, I forged on. This isn't for the mild or the meek. You open up the DME bundle, pick a green wire, hope it's the right one.....and snip! Actually, there were three green wires, but only one that was 14 ga- the others were smaller. I checked continuity with the - wire going to the coil. It's nice to get confirmation from the voltmeter that you cut the right one. Andial's wiring diagram also dictates that you snip the black + wire to the coil, and there are three black wires in that bundle, but they looked too small.
After some internal debate, I decided it wasn't there. I then looked at the bundle coming from the front under the seat rail, the + wire is through the ignition switch, so this made sense to me. I opened it up, and found a likely suspect. I used a probe to penetrate the insulation as I wasn't totally sure I was hunting in the right spot. Checked the continuity with my big jumper to the + coil lead, and saw I hit paydirt again. So, I made up the wiring for the cuts I made, and ran them to the splitter. I ony need to run two new coils leads back for coil #2, and a ground wire, and it's a wrap. But, that is for later this week, I finally caved in on the beer and cigar, after all it's Sunday.
4. I installed the coils on their new perches.