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So Tell Me...Am I Screwed...

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Old 12-11-2009, 07:11 PM
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jtilden
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Default So Tell Me...Am I Screwed...

After looking at this pic:

I noticed it while I was lowering my car. I am going to have it fixed but would like to have it aligned before I take it to the shop to get repaired. Is there any reason why I can't have it aligned before I get it repaired? I am assuming all that has to be done is to remove the radius arm brace and re-weld the spot. Thanks in advance for your replies.
Old 12-11-2009, 07:25 PM
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rusnak
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It doesn't look too bad to me. I think any frame straightening shop would probably have both the welder and the alignment tools to make it a one stop deal. I would expect to pay about $200 for a good 4 wheel alignment here in Fresno. Welding and re-assembly would be maybe 4-5 hrs. total at 40-50 per hour. A race car builder could also do a nice job. We have several in these parts as well, but they don't have the alignment lasers and wheel scales.

How on earth did you do that btw??

Last edited by rusnak; 03-05-2010 at 12:06 AM.
Old 12-11-2009, 07:41 PM
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jtilden
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Originally Posted by rusnak
It doesn't look too bad to me. I think any frame straightening shop would probably have both the welder and the alignment tools to make it a one stop deal. I would expect to pay about $200 for a good 4 wheel alignment here in Fresno. Welding and re-assembly would be maybe 4-5 hrs. total at 40-50 per hour. A race car builder could also do a nice job. We have several in these parts as well, but they don't have the alignment lasers and wheel scales.

How on earth did you do that btw??
I have no idea...could've had something to do with buying the car without a PPI...lesson learned
Old 12-11-2009, 07:54 PM
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Just be glad you aren't the proud owner of this car:

http://www.darrylsgarage.com/912/912FEB06.htm

Cool reading and amazing what they can do.
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Old 12-12-2009, 12:15 AM
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TT Oversteer
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To really fix this correctly I would remove the springplate, torsion bar and rubber bushing. Then grind the paint and undercoating off the area surrounding the torsion housing/springplate mounting area. Fabricate a plate that surrounds the whole area and weld it in. Only then can you reassemble the suspension and do the alignment.

You could just try to run a bead along the crack but that area is already weakened and would benefit from spreading the load across as wide an area as possible.

What's the tear along the bottom edge just fwd of the torsion tube? Is it related or was the car improperly lifted?

You're not screwed. All this can be fixed by someone with the right equipment and skills. It just depends how much $$ you want to spend and if you want to just patch it up or strengthen and stiffen the whole area.

Are you running really stiff rear T-bars or tracking/autocrossing this car?
Old 12-12-2009, 12:39 PM
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My suggestion is to take it to a qualified Porsche garage (not a dealer) and see what they recommend. You might contact Jones Autowerks here in San Antonio and see what they think. They work on Porsches only and have for over 40 years. Ask for Kathy or Bob Jones. They may ask you to send pictures via e-mail. There are a few shops in Austin, but I don't have info on them. Jones Autowerks number is 210-657-1111.
Old 12-12-2009, 01:08 PM
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wwest
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Originally Posted by jtilden
After looking at this pic:

I noticed it while I was lowering my car. I am going to have it fixed but would like to have it aligned before I take it to the shop to get repaired. Is there any reason why I can't have it aligned before I get it repaired? I am assuming all that has to be done is to remove the radius arm brace and re-weld the spot. Thanks in advance for your replies.
Too many years of travel on a dirt and gravel road.

Took my '78, exactly same cracking, to an aircraft welding specialist.
Old 12-12-2009, 10:03 PM
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rusnak
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Maybe the crease in front of the torsion tube can be straightened out at the same time. Use heat and let it cool afterwards. As for the weld, I would not worry too much about the area being weakened.
The welding process will add material and make it stronger, as long as you get good heat penetration - which is why the suspension pieces need to be off of the car, including the torsion bar. Clean it up really well, and weld on bare metal. Use 220v Mig, or Tig for a clean weld, and you'll be back in business. The zinc coating will be toast, so you'll need to primer and rust proof afterward before paint.
Old 12-12-2009, 10:40 PM
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Ed Hughes
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Could be from some previous damage....is that filler that is lifting where the paint is hanging, or is that some paint repair that is lifting?
Old 12-13-2009, 12:08 AM
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the whole thing is big ugly mess .. i am not sure which part you are talking abou , looks like a paint crack and some body damage.. lean it up and post more pics .. would love to see what it looks like under that mess. Either way doesn't look too bad
Old 12-13-2009, 12:36 AM
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It looks like it got hit hard by something. More than just a poorly placed jack stand did that...

Something ripped off the undercoating and smashed in the frame.
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