Electrical gurus, I need help figuring out why my wipers (front & rear) do not work!
#1
Electrical gurus, I need help figuring out why my wipers (front & rear) do not work!
I posted this over at PP and didn't get very much in the way of replies. I'm hoping someone here can help...
It's getting close to the rainy season in Washington state so I cannot put off fixing my wipers for very long. My rear wiper has never worked for me and my front wipers recently stopped. They failed progressively though, the stalk controls stopped working first and a few weeks later the intermittent switch stopped working.
I'm "ok" with electrics and I have a Bentley manual and multimeter, but the wiring of the 911 has me confused. How can I test both the front and rear wiper systems to determine the point of failure?
Also, I took apart the rear wiper motor yesterday. The original gear oil had the consistency of gummy candy. I re-oiled it, put it back together and double checked my Bentley manual to find that the motor had been wired incorrectly! Once I put the wires back on it motor ran for a bit, then got stuck. I moved the magnetic spindle a bit and it worked for another minute or so before dying again. It appears to not be able to overcome the resistance of the plastic "ramp" on the main internal gear that causes the switch to flip. It seems like the motor's fried. :-\
It's getting close to the rainy season in Washington state so I cannot put off fixing my wipers for very long. My rear wiper has never worked for me and my front wipers recently stopped. They failed progressively though, the stalk controls stopped working first and a few weeks later the intermittent switch stopped working.
I'm "ok" with electrics and I have a Bentley manual and multimeter, but the wiring of the 911 has me confused. How can I test both the front and rear wiper systems to determine the point of failure?
Also, I took apart the rear wiper motor yesterday. The original gear oil had the consistency of gummy candy. I re-oiled it, put it back together and double checked my Bentley manual to find that the motor had been wired incorrectly! Once I put the wires back on it motor ran for a bit, then got stuck. I moved the magnetic spindle a bit and it worked for another minute or so before dying again. It appears to not be able to overcome the resistance of the plastic "ramp" on the main internal gear that causes the switch to flip. It seems like the motor's fried. :-\
#2
Addict
I'd say getting power is 90% of the battle. After that, it's mechanical issues and it sounds like you have that under control too. I'd manually work the wiper motor. Try giving it 12 volts off the car. (Bench test it is what I'm looking for...) If replacement is the only option then that's just one more new part your car has collected.
Ground wires can always be an issue....
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...ILTER_TOOL=ON#
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...+motor&submit=
same part $70 off
Ground wires can always be an issue....
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...ILTER_TOOL=ON#
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...+motor&submit=
same part $70 off
#4
Team Owner
as doug points out the first step is get your meter in the connector and see if you have 12volts .... it all starts there .. if you do you need motors... if you don't ..post back ..
#5
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Mar 2004
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What would cause the wipers to not return to their 'rest' position? That's what i am dealing with. My various speeds work but when you click the stalk to the off position, the wipers immediately stop regardless of the position on the windshield.
Tom
Tom
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#9
I haddah Google dat
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#10
Doh! I checked the 3 fuse in the trunk instead of the engine compartment. It didn't make sense at the time, obviously because I wasn't paying close enough attention to the manual!
#11
Rennlist Member
Gerlando, that fuse block needs to be removed and checked to ensure it has not shorted out. It is hard to explain, but I'll try. On the back of it it there are three copper flat pieces. They conduct current to the fuses. However two of them are connected to together (made that way) which provides continuity for a third fuse....I don't recall which. On my fuse block, it had burned through (shorted out) and there was no longer any continuity. I soldered the two pieces together where they had burned in two and voila, it worked. I tried ordering a new fuse block for the engine compartment, but they are no longer availabel (NLA). that's why I went the soldering route.
#12
Burning Brakes
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#13
Ron, I checked the rear fuse and the red wire appears to be getting full power so I think the box isn't the problem. On the other hand, on the red/black wire I'm only seeing 2v regardless of the switch position.
rusnak, I believe I saw the diode right next to the switch. It's rectangular clear plastic and wired inline with the switch. Are these replaceable? I couldn't find on in the catalog here.
rusnak, I believe I saw the diode right next to the switch. It's rectangular clear plastic and wired inline with the switch. Are these replaceable? I couldn't find on in the catalog here.
#15
Team Owner
I haven't been totaly following this hread but if he is getting power I think it is in the motor. If I remember correctly the device that ensure full return before stopping is in the motor also .