Likely culprits?...oil leak
09-14-2009, 04:29 PM
#1
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Likely culprits?...oil leak
It seems i have an oil leak on the right hand side of my engine 
Left side is nice and clean and dry, right hand however, has an oil covered valve cover and heat exchanger. The oil cooler itself looks mucky but because the fine fresh oil has sprayed about on a few surfaces we havent been able to locate the leak yet. The sensors and breathers ontop are clean. The oil tubes have been replaced a short while back and are clean.
The oil and filter was changed two weeks ago and the garage used Mobil super 10w40 (which ive heard some say is too thin for these older cars).
I dont appear to have any oil on the garage floor overnight but am losing oil over a few days.
So was wondering if you guys in the know would have some ideas?
Car is going back to dealer to sort but some info would be useful.
Left side is nice and clean and dry, right hand however, has an oil covered valve cover and heat exchanger. The oil cooler itself looks mucky but because the fine fresh oil has sprayed about on a few surfaces we havent been able to locate the leak yet. The sensors and breathers ontop are clean. The oil tubes have been replaced a short while back and are clean.The oil and filter was changed two weeks ago and the garage used Mobil super 10w40 (which ive heard some say is too thin for these older cars).
I dont appear to have any oil on the garage floor overnight but am losing oil over a few days.
So was wondering if you guys in the know would have some ideas?
Car is going back to dealer to sort but some info would be useful.
09-14-2009, 04:30 PM
#2
I haddah Google dat
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Is it either a 911SC or a 3.2 911? Is oil leaking onto the exhaust cross pipe? If so, it's the oil pressure light switch or thermostat o-ring. Its an easy fix on the 3.2, but requires an engine drop on the SC.
09-15-2009, 09:08 AM
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Its a 3.2 rusnak. I've had two 911 clued up bods look at it but both came up with different opinions. It was nothing from the top surface of the engine as clean/dry.
The fresh surface oil seems to be on the oil cooler, the right hand valve cover and the right hand heat exchanger.
The fresh surface oil seems to be on the oil cooler, the right hand valve cover and the right hand heat exchanger.
09-15-2009, 10:50 AM
#4
Team Owner
a dealer put 10W40 in an air cooled car ? where are oyu alaska ? IMO that is WAY to thin .. here in Canada I use 20w50 through the summer and 15 W40 throiugh the cooler weather in November .
I can tell it is A Carrera as you can't even see that upper area without dismantling half the top end. Ther leak ufortunately could be anywhere on that side , oil cooler seals, valve cover, base gaskets etc,
I can tell it is A Carrera as you can't even see that upper area without dismantling half the top end. Ther leak ufortunately could be anywhere on that side , oil cooler seals, valve cover, base gaskets etc,
09-15-2009, 11:37 AM
#5
Banned
My money is still on the pressure switch... 
Like iceman says - you really can't see the top right on a 3.2 without taking a lot of stuff off.... As well - it could be the cooler seals - but leaks on those tend to come off the lower case rather than the VCs... As well - when switch went on my '87 Carrera - it started out exactly as you describe - and then in a short time - acted like the reincarnation of the Exxon Valdez...
HTH,
John
Like iceman says - you really can't see the top right on a 3.2 without taking a lot of stuff off.... As well - it could be the cooler seals - but leaks on those tend to come off the lower case rather than the VCs... As well - when switch went on my '87 Carrera - it started out exactly as you describe - and then in a short time - acted like the reincarnation of the Exxon Valdez...
HTH,
John
09-15-2009, 12:36 PM
#6
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is the pressure switch an easy fix?...if i am lucky enough for it to be just that !
Running it to a local P-specialist in the morning for a quick look over on his ramps, as it could save me a long journey/lost days back to the dealers.
Running it to a local P-specialist in the morning for a quick look over on his ramps, as it could save me a long journey/lost days back to the dealers.
09-15-2009, 01:19 PM
#7
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+1 on Ice's comment. 20w50 on 3.2's. I use Valvoline VR1 here in Texas due to the heat. VR1 has a much higher ZDDP. There are probably other really good oils, but Valvoline in my preference.
In colder climates, you need to use a thinner oil in winter. I run 20w50 year round since it rarely gets below freezing here plus I don't drive it a lot in the winter.
In colder climates, you need to use a thinner oil in winter. I run 20w50 year round since it rarely gets below freezing here plus I don't drive it a lot in the winter.
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09-15-2009, 01:44 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
Local P-specialist?!! Dealer?!! STOP!! All you need is a flashlight, a couple wrenchs, $10 and some dexterity. Remove the air filter, housing and flapper box (approx. 15min), shine the light down there and you'll have your answer. The idiot light sending unit and on-engine T-stat are right next to each other and therefore might be hard to determine which is the culprit. Just change them both. 1.5hrs and $20 is all you need......
09-15-2009, 03:27 PM
#9
I haddah Google dat
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Air box comes off with a 9mm wrench, and a 10mm socket. The air flow meter (with the barn door) comes off with a flat screwdriver, and 10mm socket.
Turn your head sideways, stick it in to the engine bay, then with a bright flashlight look down onto the engine. You'll see the engine pressure switch. If it's leaking, you'll see wet oil. The pressure switch comes out after thorough cleaning.
If you find it's the switch, you should change the thermostat o-ring (buy the green viton one). The engine wiring harness will be in the way but can gently be pushed aside. The thermostat comes out with two nuts after thorough cleaning.
It takes me about a half an hour to change these two, and I carry a spare oil pressure switch in the front trunk since it is a common failure item. If you want to take this on, I'll post an exploded diagram and some pics.
Turn your head sideways, stick it in to the engine bay, then with a bright flashlight look down onto the engine. You'll see the engine pressure switch. If it's leaking, you'll see wet oil. The pressure switch comes out after thorough cleaning.
If you find it's the switch, you should change the thermostat o-ring (buy the green viton one). The engine wiring harness will be in the way but can gently be pushed aside. The thermostat comes out with two nuts after thorough cleaning.
It takes me about a half an hour to change these two, and I carry a spare oil pressure switch in the front trunk since it is a common failure item. If you want to take this on, I'll post an exploded diagram and some pics.
09-15-2009, 04:37 PM
#10
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Please post the pics if you wouldn't mind, all help is appreciated as I may be looking at this as well at some point,
Thanks,
Rod,
-----------------------------------
1987 911 Carrera Black
1969 Olds 442 Convertable Orange/White
Thanks,
Rod,
-----------------------------------
1987 911 Carrera Black
1969 Olds 442 Convertable Orange/White
09-15-2009, 05:07 PM
#11
I haddah Google dat
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Here are some links to get you started:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=335183
Good pictures on this thread:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=421871
And here is a picture that illustrates how the oil from a leak of this nature ends up on the exhaust cross pipe. If you have a big leak onto the cross pipe, it is probably the oil pressure switch.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=335183
Good pictures on this thread:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=421871
And here is a picture that illustrates how the oil from a leak of this nature ends up on the exhaust cross pipe. If you have a big leak onto the cross pipe, it is probably the oil pressure switch.
Last edited by rusnak; 03-05-2010 at 12:07 AM.
09-15-2009, 06:53 PM
#12
Banned
Air box comes off with a 9mm wrench, and a 10mm socket. The air flow meter (with the barn door) comes off with a flat screwdriver, and 10mm socket.
Turn your head sideways, stick it in to the engine bay, then with a bright flashlight look down onto the engine. You'll see the engine pressure switch. If it's leaking, you'll see wet oil. The pressure switch comes out after thorough cleaning.
If you find it's the switch, you should change the thermostat o-ring (buy the green viton one). The engine wiring harness will be in the way but can gently be pushed aside. The thermostat comes out with two nuts after thorough cleaning.
It takes me about a half an hour to change these two, and I carry a spare oil pressure switch in the front trunk since it is a common failure item. If you want to take this on, I'll post an exploded diagram and some pics.
Turn your head sideways, stick it in to the engine bay, then with a bright flashlight look down onto the engine. You'll see the engine pressure switch. If it's leaking, you'll see wet oil. The pressure switch comes out after thorough cleaning.
If you find it's the switch, you should change the thermostat o-ring (buy the green viton one). The engine wiring harness will be in the way but can gently be pushed aside. The thermostat comes out with two nuts after thorough cleaning.
It takes me about a half an hour to change these two, and I carry a spare oil pressure switch in the front trunk since it is a common failure item. If you want to take this on, I'll post an exploded diagram and some pics.
Sorry - a long day at work and see that your question back has been responded to by many folks... You are in good hands...
John
(BTW - can you PM me when you sold your last part on the 964 Forum to the other UK listers?? As you know - I gave you a "Trial Membership" so mods wouldn't delete your FS post there. What's a "Trial Membership"? I have no idea - but, whatever it was, appeared to have worked
)John
09-15-2009, 10:40 PM
#13
I haddah Google dat
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Here are some pics: If the leak is the oil pressure switch, which is likely, these will help. If the leak is the oil cooler, you'll still need to eventually do this repair at some point anyway.
911 engine block with the oil pressure switch, thermostat 0-ring, and crankcase breather gasket colored yellow;
a picture of a thermostat removed. You replace the green o-ring. Buy the viton one (green) not the red one;
I recommend using a right angle screwdriver to pry the thermostat out.
I think the oil pressure switch is a 22mm. I take the plastic insert out of my soft socket, and voila, 22mm deep socket. Fits perfectly.
In the last pic, which I got from Pelican, the "oil temp sender" is mis-labelled. This is the oil pressure switch. I'm posting it only because I don't have a pic of the top of my engine to post.
911 engine block with the oil pressure switch, thermostat 0-ring, and crankcase breather gasket colored yellow;
a picture of a thermostat removed. You replace the green o-ring. Buy the viton one (green) not the red one;
I recommend using a right angle screwdriver to pry the thermostat out.
I think the oil pressure switch is a 22mm. I take the plastic insert out of my soft socket, and voila, 22mm deep socket. Fits perfectly.
In the last pic, which I got from Pelican, the "oil temp sender" is mis-labelled. This is the oil pressure switch. I'm posting it only because I don't have a pic of the top of my engine to post.
Last edited by rusnak; 03-05-2010 at 12:07 AM.
09-16-2009, 07:08 AM
#14
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quality information Rusnak, thanks a lot for that.
I did get it up on the local p-specialists ramps this morning (free of charge) and he had a good look around with his strip light. He concluded that it is the oil cooler thats gone, so its off to the dealer to sort out. I also have a slight leak at the front engine gasket/seal ? (the one thats dead centre of engine behind the rear bumper) one to worry about? or is this another common leak area?
Incidentally, he had another 3.2 up on the other ramps that had just needed a new oil cooler too. Perhaps the originals fitted to the cars mid eighties are approaching the end of their working life ??
I did get it up on the local p-specialists ramps this morning (free of charge) and he had a good look around with his strip light. He concluded that it is the oil cooler thats gone, so its off to the dealer to sort out. I also have a slight leak at the front engine gasket/seal ? (the one thats dead centre of engine behind the rear bumper) one to worry about? or is this another common leak area?
Incidentally, he had another 3.2 up on the other ramps that had just needed a new oil cooler too. Perhaps the originals fitted to the cars mid eighties are approaching the end of their working life ??
09-16-2009, 09:31 AM
#15
Team Owner
you should be able to replace the oil cooler seals without replacing the whole oil cooler .... if he does replace the whole cooler I would be askin for my old parts back .