Edward

Well, I put on the Hargett billet aluminum valve covers. Went to the track this weekend ...ugh, leak! So I tightened them a bit. Next day, still leak. Frustrated, I took a good close look underneath. I found that the o-ring (remember it uses a 964/993 o-ring) squeezed out and was visible in the areas where it was seeping. So as little as I "torqued" it (yeah, just barely past finger tight) down upon installation, it seems that I had overtightened??!!!

So tell me: how little do I really tightenen these nuts down anyway? I don't want to screw up another set of o-rings and i'd like to actually see this seep gone. Thanks!!

Edward

ron mcatee

Torque to factory specs, whatever it is.

TroyN

Can you post a pic? Can't picture how it would squeeze out, and where.

Edward

Hey Troy,

Not much of a pic to post, really. If you can imagine the seam between the alum valve cover and head, and then see a bit of the rubber o-ring sticking out as if it were squished out ...which is what I surmise I did, that's what you'd see. I see this in two two places on the right bank, one place on the left bank. Man I thought I was careful enough to "go light" on the tightening these down, even doing it with a 1/4" drive.

But here's my quandary: I believe I had overtightened them at the track only after I had spotted the leak. So I gave em a bit of a turn thinking I had them too loose. I don't think I overtightened then upon installation, though, but who knows.

So any tips, anyone? I clearly have to buy another set of o-rings (and nyloc nuts, I suppose), and want a dry engine, especially at the track. Is the only thing I really need to do is torque to spec and that's it? Should I really get a 1/4" torque wrench (will one fit in there?) in inch-pounds? Or is there something else, a tip or trick, to get this thing to seal properly? Thanks!!

Ahem ...Pete?? Steve??

Edward

Amber Gramps

Ed, you have a PM

rusnak

This is hard to follow. You say you have oil leaking through the bolt holes of the valve covers? Have you tried the aluminum crush washers that come with the OEM valve cover kit? Those things seal tightly. If your leak is through the threads, then that is strange. Have you checked the leaking studs for squareness against the heads? Are the heads warped?

Edward

No sir, no oil coming from the bolt holes. As I mentioned, the leaks "seem" to come from where the bit of rubber o-ring is protruding from the seam/mating surface of the valve cover and head (presumably "squeezed out" and so visible from being over-tightened). Of course with oil blowing everywhere with the fan and the car at speed, it is impossible to know definitively where the oil is coming from, but it makes sense that the oil is coming from said seam, and not from the threads.

Edward

Amber Gramps

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...-0906-092-M260

This is the recomended gasket set we should all be using. It has a bead of silicone built into it that goes all the way around all openings. Is this the "O-ring" you are talking about? Is it possible your aftermarket valve covers don't line up just right with that silicone?

TroyN

The 993 valve cover gaskets are thick, flexible rubber pieces that match the same shape as that gasket but fit into a channel in the valve covers and are smooshed down when you tighten the valve covers; kind of like an o-ring in function but not an 'o' nor a ring.

When I did my 993 VCs, I just used an allen key to tighten the bolts. Kind of like with an oil filter: tightened until they just touched and then "a little more". I tightened from the middle out and went around again to make sure they were all just tight. No leaks after that. No leaks in my SC gaskets either with a similar approach, so YMMV. I wonder if your head surfaces are uneven? Anyway, good luck.

whalebird

yup. Use the 3.6 gaskets. I always use a little bit of silicon paste (not RTV) to hold them in place. Seems like they have fat sections molded into them to help wedge into their groove. I would take everything off and clean it real good with some brake clean, place the gaskets into the valve cover groove dry - with nothing gooey on them. Then see if they will maintain their position. Reassmble if all is well. If no go, you can get the silicon tune-up paste from the auto parts store of your choice and dab a little on all of the corners and hope for the best. Be very deliberate when reinstalling the covers not to gouge the gasket on anything - and gently lower them over the studs. Tighten hand-tight with a small quarter-drive ratchet/socket. You can try to fumble a torque wrench in there, but its only about 8ft/lbs IIRC.
hope this helps.
good luck

theiceman

the silicon gaskets are just as crap as the others. The 993 ones are the way to go ..

rusnak

Have the heads been checked? If they are warped, won't they warp the valve covers eventually?

Amber Gramps

Clive, is this the one?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...r=PEL-SIL-VLGK


and a +1 on the use of brake cleaner.

theiceman

Tough to tell from that pic doug but they should be allmost of a rubber consistency .. I just say weld the f"ers on and drive the car till it explodes....

Edward

Thanks, guys. Seems like I'll just have to do this again ...I was very careful upon installation, or so I thought, but I'll take extra care again.

Hey whalebird,
What is the paste you speak of? I've used RTV in the past, but not familiar with what you're raising. Brand? Can I get it a Napa, Autozone, or PepBoys? Is it a "sealer" per se?

Edward