Results from PPI
07-20-2009, 02:55 AM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Results from PPI
Got a ppi on the 83 911 I posted some pics of a little while ago. Will post some that weren't snapped with a phone soon after detailing.
PPI results:
All cylinders are between 2-3% with one exception at 5-6% one question... I know you're supposed to check oil with the engine running, but the car dies when oil cap comes off. Any thoughts? Mechanic said it was just a very tight system and not to worry, just top up every now and again when dipstick is low from a warm but non running motor.
Recommended changing brakes hoses/ bleeding brakes
Replace and adjust wheel bearings (front I believe)
Leak at selector shaft
Clutch cable and spring change, plus add a wevo linkage
Adjust the throttle cable (it doesn't have a lot of travel)
Replace windshield seal
Idle is quite low at startup, ie 250-300 rpms. Haven't cleaned idle sensor but that's the first thing I'll do when time permits.
Also the tach sometimes doesn't come "on" with the car, but wakes up after driving for a short time/ shifting.
Some rust spots, one at door knocker and one bigger one at battery.
End results:
I received the service manual in the mail the other week, so will be looking through it for which things look doable for me to repair, a beginner but enthusiastic student.
After the test drive the mechanic said it was a very well sorted and maintained example, and to keep it out of the harsh northern winters.
Tried to keep results detailed but short, sorry if I failed, wanted to update on status because I enjoy reading these boards for all of the technical suggestions, ideas, and inspirations
Thanks for all the help thus far, and I look forward to learning even more! Plus pictures of these cars make my pulse quicken.
PPI results:
All cylinders are between 2-3% with one exception at 5-6% one question... I know you're supposed to check oil with the engine running, but the car dies when oil cap comes off. Any thoughts? Mechanic said it was just a very tight system and not to worry, just top up every now and again when dipstick is low from a warm but non running motor.
Recommended changing brakes hoses/ bleeding brakes
Replace and adjust wheel bearings (front I believe)
Leak at selector shaft
Clutch cable and spring change, plus add a wevo linkage
Adjust the throttle cable (it doesn't have a lot of travel)
Replace windshield seal
Idle is quite low at startup, ie 250-300 rpms. Haven't cleaned idle sensor but that's the first thing I'll do when time permits.
Also the tach sometimes doesn't come "on" with the car, but wakes up after driving for a short time/ shifting.
Some rust spots, one at door knocker and one bigger one at battery.
End results:
I received the service manual in the mail the other week, so will be looking through it for which things look doable for me to repair, a beginner but enthusiastic student.
After the test drive the mechanic said it was a very well sorted and maintained example, and to keep it out of the harsh northern winters.
Tried to keep results detailed but short, sorry if I failed, wanted to update on status because I enjoy reading these boards for all of the technical suggestions, ideas, and inspirations
Thanks for all the help thus far, and I look forward to learning even more! Plus pictures of these cars make my pulse quicken.
07-20-2009, 09:14 PM
#3
Team Owner
Well a few obvious things. If you are idling at 250-300 certainly explains why your engine dies when you take the cap off. it should be idling around 950- 1050 .
There is no "idle sensor" in fact this car has virtually no sensors beyond the O2 sensor. You do have an idle screw and a mixture setting. Read your manual. I would suggest checking your mixture at some point ( mixture ) but lifting the idle should at least het you by for now .
As pointed out the scary one is the battery leak get that sorted out immediately , as the dreaded cancer spreads fast.
all those other things are definitely doable by the home mechanic and some tools. just tackle them one at a time. Once you figure out how to get the idle lifted and stable you can check the oil and go from there.
There is no "idle sensor" in fact this car has virtually no sensors beyond the O2 sensor. You do have an idle screw and a mixture setting. Read your manual. I would suggest checking your mixture at some point ( mixture ) but lifting the idle should at least het you by for now .
As pointed out the scary one is the battery leak get that sorted out immediately , as the dreaded cancer spreads fast.
all those other things are definitely doable by the home mechanic and some tools. just tackle them one at a time. Once you figure out how to get the idle lifted and stable you can check the oil and go from there.
07-20-2009, 09:30 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
PPI results:
All cylinders are between 2-3% with one exception at 5-6% one question... I know you're supposed to check oil with the engine running, but the car dies when oil cap comes off. Any thoughts? Mechanic said it was just a very tight system and not to worry, just top up every now and again when dipstick is low from a warm but non running motor.
This is about the single dumbest comment that I've ever heard a "mechanic" say to a customer. Good grief, the breather hose at the filler neck is missing its insert which reduces air flow when the cap's removed...
250-300 rpm is not readable - the bottom line on your tach is 600 rpm.
I would call this PPI suspect and try to get a second opinion.
All cylinders are between 2-3% with one exception at 5-6% one question... I know you're supposed to check oil with the engine running, but the car dies when oil cap comes off. Any thoughts? Mechanic said it was just a very tight system and not to worry, just top up every now and again when dipstick is low from a warm but non running motor.
This is about the single dumbest comment that I've ever heard a "mechanic" say to a customer. Good grief, the breather hose at the filler neck is missing its insert which reduces air flow when the cap's removed...
250-300 rpm is not readable - the bottom line on your tach is 600 rpm.
I would call this PPI suspect and try to get a second opinion.
07-20-2009, 11:59 PM
#6
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll remove my battery to inspect the rest of the area for rust following that thread. It doesn't appear to be from a spill though, as the rust is uniform across one specific piece right next to the battery. Either way needs attending to sooner than later, just want to see if it's like a transformer, more than meets the eye!
Didn't realize the indicators started at 600 since it's almost the same spacing from 600 to 1k as 1k to 2k. Looks like it's idling between 8 and 900 with Pete's insight into what I was viewing wrongly! Will also check out the breather tube at filter neck with manual's assistance.
I'll bring the car into a shop that's closer for their opinion as well.
Thanks for all the input, I love driving it and want to continue to for as long as possible!
Didn't realize the indicators started at 600 since it's almost the same spacing from 600 to 1k as 1k to 2k. Looks like it's idling between 8 and 900 with Pete's insight into what I was viewing wrongly! Will also check out the breather tube at filter neck with manual's assistance.
I'll bring the car into a shop that's closer for their opinion as well.
Thanks for all the input, I love driving it and want to continue to for as long as possible!
