nikkoa

Well it's been set. Bentley in hand, tomorrow morning I'm pulling it out.

Anything abnormal I should be aware of?
Tips on keeping things proper for re-instillation?
Things I should keep an eye on?

Appreciate it as always guys. Enjoy the 3 day holiday!

jakeflyer

1. tools::: Pep Boys makes a 6 ton jack stand that keeps the car high eniogh to drop the engine w/o wood blocks. Put it on the round stubs(the ones that are down) behind/inside the wheel with back up stands on the jack points on each side. We bought the round jack point inserts for both sides and lift the car with 2 jacks and then safety/back up support at that point also with the jack stands. There is a tool that goes fits into the hole of the floor jack(when the round parts that is the lift point is removed) that looks like a shoe and fits around the engine to holdhait. I dropped the S engine by my self using it. I have the tele # if you want to order it or if you are in SoCal, you can borrow mine.

2. If you have a bad memory photo each step

Ed Hughes

I'm partial to dropping the engine on an ATV jack.

For your first drop, engine and trans should come out together.

Go slowly when you drop the engine, it's pretty common to miss a wire or something not getting disconnected.

I prefer raising the entire car (front end too). Get those big jack stands under the rear T-bar tubes, I think about 24" clear under them, if memory serves. This way it is all level. Then, when you're ready to lower the engine, drop it a bit until it is clear of everything, and you drop the front end of the car too, which gets the rear end up high enough to clear. I think I need 39" clear under the valance. If you remove the valance, it will be 36" or so.

Make sure the shifter rod is clear of the tunnel entry before dropping, you don't want to bend it.

Take a pic of you standing in the engine bay with the goofy smile on your face.

theiceman

couple other things.

don't be afraid to take the back bumper off if you don't have clearance . it is only about ten minutes work,
be carefull of the back up lights wire on the transmision . it is easily forgotten.
Tie up the cv joints up out of the way .
The rest is pretty straight forward.

whalebird

Drain the oil first. I know this is obvious, but don't forget. Also when disconnecting the oil lines, have some plugs ready to put in the ends of the openings or it will drip for days. And... when tying up those axle shaft, wrap a shop cloth around the CV joint and secure it with a rubber band. Careful with the wires behind the engine on the frame. Also, when you remove the fuel lines, be sure to use two wrenches and counter the union fittings on the fuel filter and return lines.
I am not sure if you could even remove the engine without the trans as stated above in an air cooled 911. So don't second guess the process - pull them both.
Oh,...back to the axles-be very careful and clean the bolt heads and make sure the tool fits in them securely. Some bolts are of the "triple square" variety, not a "torx", lots of them are standard allen bolts. You will want to properly torque these upon reassembly.
If I think of anything else I will post. Go slow and be deliberate and you will have no problems. If you observe the proper steps, the next time you have to do this will only take a few hours. Don't get in a hurry and if you have any questions-post them here - don't guess.

MUSSBERGER

http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalo...68/5749889.htm

Use these

whalebird

That is a great product. On the early axles with a paper seal on the flange, I have seen the proper torque applied and then after a drive the axles are loose. The paper seal will "crush" and the bolts require retorqueing. It's just a part of the process. I torque the axle bolts on every car I get on the lift. Especially when doing a track "nut and bolt" or PPI, or DE inspection although it is not required. I believe it is in the service schedule for Porsche cars of various vintage.

Ed Hughes

Well, that one statement kind of tarnishes your credibility as an advisor here on dropping a 911 engine.

Of course you can pull just the engine. I, and many others find it a lot easier and quicker. Just not having the mess with the CV joints is worth the price of admission, in my book. But, as I suggested, the first-timer should do both. It certainly helps to visualize how they mate when the engine and trans are both out of the car.

whalebird

I understand that it has been done. My choice of words could have been better. The process is not outlined in any manual to my knowledge. Porsche hasn't suggested this method in my experiance either. My credebility is what it is. Having removed the drivetrain from literally every production Porsche up to model year 2002, I can think of lots of short cuts, I just followed the manual. I have seen this done trackside, but that is a racecar and provisions are made for it. I have never done it because I am not scared of the axles. I have also thought that there would be spacing problems between the exhaust, lower sheet metal, fan, etc. I guess there is some pry bar use.

jakeflyer

---------------- Ed Hughes-----------------------------------

Ed, how do you get the thow out fork in place with the tranny in the car? I takes me a half hour with both on the ground. car 911sc. Re the shoe for the floor jack. It has a round part for the drain sump and then extends foward on the tranny, so the weight is even. I do use a small racing jack at the nose of the tranny for tilt control ( the shoe has a hinge point at he jack). The height is about the same as a floor jack so it is easier to clear the car. Next time you do the job, drive to Huntingotn Beach and look at it/use it if you want.

Ed Hughes

No fear of CV's, just another process to undo, then I buy new bolts when they go back in. Also, no pry bars.

I just cocked the fork to the position that looks to mate up. Then when you have the engine close enough to the trans, you turn it the rest of the way to capture the bearing. I actually think this part is easier to do with the trans in place. Both the engine and trans are very stable and aren't moving in relation to one another.

whalebird

The throw out fork is one of my major concerns for this method. It seems like it would go just like Ed says but would take a bit of work. I have used a car lift mostly in the past when removing the drivetrain. I would lower the car on the lift and then jack a hydrolic table up to the engine leaving the trans to dangle off the end of the table. Then drop the four bolts and then raise the car off of the drivetrain. At this point, I would wheel the table with engine/trans on it out from under the car. Then I would lower the table with the dangleing trans onto a roll cart that I had affixed a cradle for the tranny. then it is real easy to seperate the two. It would go back together real easy reversing the process. It made getting the clutch fork in place a piece of cake - all at a good working height. I know most people here do not have that kind of capabilities with a lift and all. Pulling just the motor would put the trans mounting in jeopardy with all of the up and down of the entire car. I believe the engine-only method would seem easier with the car on jack stands, but would require special attention to not harm the trans mounts and the shifter input shaft linkage/seals etc. I presume it would be prudent to disconnect the shifter coupler using this method.

Ed Hughes

I can testify that the two times I've done this, the clutch fork engaged perfectly. The coupler should be disconnected. Search on Pelican, and you'll see more than a few people that agree on the method.

MDL

It doesn't hurt to snap a few pictures as you go to have as a reference. Really helps when you reinstall with routing wires, fuel lines etc. Plus you'll have pictures to post here!

butzip

Don't think about it too much!! The biggest BEEATCH for me was the fuel line at the front. Then it's just getting it up high enough to clear out from underneath. Good call on the oil because even when you do drain it, you'll still get some on the floor. Watch the tranny input shaft coming out of the tunnel, put it in 1st or 3rd or 5th. IMO G50 cars are easier here because you unbolt the coupler and the engine/tranny assy drop straight down, no funky angles to clear the nose. Just follow the Bentley manual it's very good.
Brgds, Peter