theiceman

if your leaving the tranny in just get a good powerfull flashlight for lining up the fork. It can be a pit of a pain but it certainly can be done. It is only about four bolts if i remember. If you are taking the tranny out consider draining the gearbox oil first. a real pain after if you to do some 1st/ 2nd gear work while you have it out.

Brads911sc

Dont most people only remove the engine, not entire thing when they do routine jobs like a clutch job. I would assume its more routine to just remove engine (without trans) for most people. Not sure I understand the concern. Mine came right out. Have a buddy there with you... took me about three hours to drop mine for the clutch I just did. Agree with everyone elses comments... Lining up the fork was pretty easy on my SC. Took me 15 minutes tops. I used a flashlight and the starter hole. Once its in the grove there isnt alot of error you can make.

MUSSBERGER

Little off the topic but here we go.

When I was in high school I was a teachers aid in auto shop. One day we had these three kids that were really good with VW's attempt to do a clutch job on a teachers car in less than the 50 minutes of class. Well they got it done except for one minor detail. As they were congratulating each other and about to lower the car down I walked over to the bench and picked up the clutch disc. "Forget something?" The teacher did not get his car back till the next day.

J richard

Ed's right you can drop the motor without the trans, but thats the advanced class, first timers just do the whole thing. Key things:

1.Take the lower valance off the rear bumper, you have to raise the car high enough to clear the height of the motor, including the jack and the block of wood under it. (watch the top of the fan housing, it's what will catch)
2.I think of it as rasing the car off the engine, if you have the car at too high of an angle it makes it tough to get the shift lever shaft out of the opening in the tunnel and the motor is unbalanced at such a high angle.
3.After you take everything loose there will be other little wires, ground straps, speedo cables and the like, so drop things slowly, there will be something you missed.
4.remember once it is all out its a pretty big paperweight, so if you need to get to anything underneath, either do it on the car or you've got to put the engine on a stand.
5.crowbars are not found in the porsche technical manual, if you find you need one, something is not disconnected....

Have fun...

Brads911sc

Again... Why is that advanced class... I didn't find it that difficult...

rusnak

Just came across this thread. I could have helped with pics earlier. Anyway, here's the jack platform that I made. It fits both Carrera and 911SC engines. I last used it to remove my friend Salvador's 911SC engine. Use a strap to keep the engine on the platform. You have to tilt the whole thing to get the shift rod out of the tunnel without damage.

Check and double and triple check that you have disconnected all of the oil lines and fuel lines, electrical harness, etc before you start to lower the engine.

Brads911sc

Nice Rusnak. I needed one of those!

Rick K

Hmm, while you're in there, new engine/tranny mounts (not too much $ and can make a big difference). Maybe take a good look at the rear bushings (banana arm) - much easier to work on w/ the engine/trans out of the car.

Just did my mounts w/ Wevos...

Houpty GT

It took me 90 minutes to get the engine out the first time I did it. Lowering the engine on a jack with boards by myself was easy but I didn't dare try and raise it by myself. You are going to need 2 people to handle aligning and ensuring it does not drop to reinstall it. I saw these engine to jack adapters and thought it could cure my phoebia being all alone and crushed by a 500-600 pound engine tranny combo. Has anyone used them? I think they are a little pricy but may be worth it next time.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item0

One mistake I made was to not disconnect the shift fork till it was out of the car.
My jack would not reach high enough to hold the engine so I had to use about 3 boards to extend its reach. I still had to remove the valence to get the CIS to clear after the engine was sitting on the ground.
I threw plastic bags over the CV joints and tied off the handles. Then, I used rope to tie the axles up to keep them out of the way.
Follow the Bentley Manual but remember that for the SC there are a few steps that they skip that you will not want to. Just look everything over before you start to lower.

Ed Hughes

An ATV jack is 1/2 the cost of that adapter-or less-and solves your concern. I've no problem popping my engine back up by myself.

nikkoa

Extremely valuable advice!

Now if only i would have read this thread BEFORE i took it out

We had everything disconnected within the first 2 hours and it was ready to come out until we got into a tug-o-war with the transmission. After spending and hour trying to rock the engine off the studs we decided to drop the transmission as well. Found an over tightened crankshaft pin resulting in plenty of swearing. 2 hours and 3 pinch nerves later we had everything on the ground. Only one minor problem I suppose... the transmission won't come off the engine!

Here are the the victory shots

nikkoa

Update:

I'm looking for head stud sealant; any suggestions on what product?
Also i was told to find 'Pin Locks' for the pistons, any help would be appreciated!

Ed Hughes

Circlips for the wrist pins are available at anyone that sells Porsche motor parts. Pelican, EBS, Zim's, etc.

theiceman

forget the jack mount , buy a decent camera dude ..

nikkoa

you can say that again... the quality on the phone my atrocious!

What size circlips fits the pistons? I figured the 22mm. I could always buy the circlips kit, can't go wrong with that thing. Any ideas on the sealant for the headstuds, hi temp silicon rubber?