Replacing Clutch Cable - 77 Carrera w/915 trans
#16
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
yeah...I thought it might have something to do with the pedal, which is why I thought you might want to check side to side play (see post #2). It is a huge pain. Order the factory rollpin and all factory springs/ hardware btw.
#17
Poseur
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had a problem with factory cables stretching a few times. If you have a regular pressure plate, and nothing exotic (e.g., a Carrera RSR pressure plate), then the standard clutch cable should be fine. I would replace the clevis pin assembly while in there.
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This is getting to such a pain in the ***... I have one bolt still left on the pedal cluster. It's a hex bolt that goes through the forward floorpan, on the right front side of the pedal base.
Here's the odd part - the bolt appears to have a small bead welded at the 12 o'clock position. Is this some kind of over-wrought antiseize practice? The bead is preventing me from getting any kind of socket or spanner on the damned bolt head.
Any ideas of how ot get it off? I have a cutoff wheel that I'm thinking of using to cut off the bead, but I'm going to end up putting a cut into the floor pan I'm sure. The other thought is a butane torch, but I don't thing it will get hot enough, and I'm not crazy about open flames right behind the fuel pump...
All help/suggestions appreciated.
Rusnak - no side to side play on the pedal at all - really surprised me. it's all fore/aft movement.
Pete - you mentioned sticking with the plastic bushings. Is this to keep the metal bushings from wearing out the shaft?
Here's the odd part - the bolt appears to have a small bead welded at the 12 o'clock position. Is this some kind of over-wrought antiseize practice? The bead is preventing me from getting any kind of socket or spanner on the damned bolt head.
Any ideas of how ot get it off? I have a cutoff wheel that I'm thinking of using to cut off the bead, but I'm going to end up putting a cut into the floor pan I'm sure. The other thought is a butane torch, but I don't thing it will get hot enough, and I'm not crazy about open flames right behind the fuel pump...
All help/suggestions appreciated.
Rusnak - no side to side play on the pedal at all - really surprised me. it's all fore/aft movement.
Pete - you mentioned sticking with the plastic bushings. Is this to keep the metal bushings from wearing out the shaft?
#19
Team Owner
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
er are you sure that the bolt is not welded on to the plate and you don't have to get underneath the car and undo the nut ? do oy have a pic ?
some guys like the plastic bushings, when the master cylinder leaks it swells the bushings and makes them squeek so they know. Personally I put in the brass ones and they have been great .
some guys like the plastic bushings, when the master cylinder leaks it swells the bushings and makes them squeek so they know. Personally I put in the brass ones and they have been great .
Last edited by theiceman; 01-09-2013 at 10:14 AM.
#20
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The bolt may be welded to the pedal cluster, so that the bolt is a stud. Can you get to the nut on the other side? PB Blaster? I can't picture what you're saying, but cutting is a last resort. Did you order the factory rollpins and springs?
#21
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The pedal assembly "bolts" on a horizontal plane are actually studs welded to the pedal tray. The nuts are removed under the car; you will find them above the skid plate under the steering box.
#22
Instructor
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ah - the bolt/stud scenario makes sense. Thanks! I'll get under the skid plate tomorrow. I'm gonna do the core exchange on my pedal cluster through the contractor on Pelican's site. Seems like a smart way to get a complete functioning unit from a guy who does these on a regular basis.
Any thoughts on the wooden floorboard assemblies? I see Pelican has aluminum replacements. My original wooden boards are in fairly good shape for being over 30 years old. Would it make more sense to put aluminum ones in their place, and save them as original equipment? I don't ever see my car as being a museum piece.
Rob
Any thoughts on the wooden floorboard assemblies? I see Pelican has aluminum replacements. My original wooden boards are in fairly good shape for being over 30 years old. Would it make more sense to put aluminum ones in their place, and save them as original equipment? I don't ever see my car as being a museum piece.
Rob
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Pedal cluster is OUT!!! Can't wait for the new one - will post and let you guys know how it ends up.
Thanks again for all the help - this was surprisingly complicated for what looked like a simple fix. And so it goes -
Rob
Thanks again for all the help - this was surprisingly complicated for what looked like a simple fix. And so it goes -
Rob
#25
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
There are subtle differences between some of the clusters. Be absolutely sure that your helper spring is the same color (black or blue) and with no turnbuckle. The Turbo clutch shaft has a different measurement of the relationship between the roll pin at the pedal end, and the angle of the short arm where the clutch cable/clevis attach at the inboard end.
#26
Instructor
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That's great advice Pete - especially since this car used to have a Sporttronic transmission (not while I owned it). When the previous owner left it for dead at the shop with a fried transmission, my mechanic eventually had to put a lein on it. At that point, he pulled the old transmission, and added the 915 manual (thank God). So - the pedal assembly is anyone's guess. I'm sending pics to the rebuilder. If he has any concerns, he'll wait until he gets my current one before shipping out the refurbished model.