robrichtx

Hi Guys - I'm fairly sure my clutch cable is shot. I've searched the archives and the posts there synch with that I've experienced. The symptoms are that the tranny started grinding when I put it into reverse. Then it started occasionally grinding in first, then constantly in first. Eventually I could barely get to engage at all, often having to turn the car off, then start it. The clutch felt like it was partially engaged even with the pedal fully depressed, so I limped her home.

I took out the floor boards and carpeting, and began the adjustment procedure. Unfortunately the Clutch Clevis Fork at the pedal end of the cable snapped while I was horsing around and trying to adjust linkage.

I took the broken clevis fork off of the clutch cable, but the cable still won't come out of the black cable housing. My question is this: how does that cable housing separate from the firewall? Do I pry it off? The 101 Projects book does not discuss this.

Once I get the cable out, is there any majic to reattaching it?

Thanks Guys!

Rob

rusnak

you are going to replace the clutch cable right? It should be a slip fit. The cable has a tube crimped on it that slips onto the firewall tube. I'd not pry anything. Try fingertip control first but use some PB Blaster if it's stuck. You might also have worn pedal bushings, so check for side to side play on the clutch pedal.

flatsixnut

This may sound dumb, but you are are trying to pull it out from the rear right?

theiceman

Funny Michael that was my thought too exactly.

Rob i sure hope it is the clutch cable cause that sure sounds like a clutch .... but regardless. Start with the cheap stuff.

As Michael points out after disconnecting from the assembly in the car at the pedal end , you climb underneath, disconnect from the actuating lever and undo the two nuts and pull it straight back. you may have to wiggle it back and forth to get it out of the fitting receiver in the body. I am not sure if your car has the Omega helper spring but something you should look at while your uner their . Make sure it is not broken.

Peter Zimmermann

Here you go - step x step...

https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...le+replacement

Peter Zimmermann

...and when you're ready to put the new one in...

https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...-promised.html

Amber Gramps

Pete, I'm tellin' you you're in the wrong business....You should own www.petelist.com.

with hits like this: http://petelist.com/animation/marilyn_manson/

with tech tips just for fun....

[just shootin' from the hip guys. I'll go away now]

Peter Zimmermann

Freaky! Would definitely need an overhaul!

robrichtx

Good points guys. Yes, I am trying to remove the cable from the back. The cable itself looks like it's in good condition, but all symptoms indicate that it is stretched. No matter what I do, there is enough slack that the pedal rests halfway to the floorboard (have adjusted both pedal and transmission ends of the cable.

The cable is typical "wire rope" sheathed in clear plastic. A good bit of it comes out the back end of the black tube which runs from the firewall to the Transmission, but the cable seems to stick about when the pedal end (remember the fork is removed) gets to the firewall.

I just wanted to make sure that the black tubing is simply "pushed" onto the firewall, and that there's no fastener of any type. Technically, I should just be able to pull it off, right? Pull direction would be aft, to the back of the car.

As for the new one - Pelican is carrying a brand named Gemo - but I've read that it's not as good as the Porsche cable. Opinions?

Rob

robrichtx

Sorry Guys - just saw all the additional posts. Thanks so much! This is perfect - just what I needed. I need to get the Bently manual ASAP.

I'm going to get the cable from Pelican - it's 80.00, so I'm assuming it's the correct one.

One thing is for certain - I only want to do this ONCE!!!

And yes - I hope it's not the clutch, but I'm doubting it is. The 915 was rebuilt when I bought it, along with a new spring centered clutch. Probably less than 10K on it since then

Thanks!

Rob

EliPitta

Rob,

After replacing my clutch cabel,helper spring etc on my 1980SC, while on a test drive the mounting tab where the cable mounts on the trany snaped right off - I hear this is a comon proble and a cheap one to replace (10-20 bucks). I replaced mine and purchased an extra one to keep in the car. The problem with the cable design is the small washers on the adjusting nuts on the transmission end of the cable - I removed mine and replaced them with wider washers, this will take a larger bite out of the tab and reduce the stress.

----------------------------
1980 SC
1971 914/6
1972 914 2.0

robrichtx

You won't believe it!!! It as the F&*^^g Roll Pin on the pedal cluster! A cheap 3 cents worth of metal. It was not at all obvious because half of the pin is still semi-engaged. That causes the cable end of the pedal to move in synch with the pedal, but when you put force on it, it stops moving. The pedal and the cable end are able to move independantly...

JEEEZ! What a pain! Now I'm trying to get the pedal cluster out, and it's not so easy. I've got one frozen bolt, and it looks like I need a right angle allen key here. Fun.

I'll let you know how it goes -

Rob

Peter Zimmermann

Many times the roll pin breaks because of the strain from an aftermarket cable, or a very old original cable that was used beyond its time. Buy yourself a set of new pedal bushings, a couple cans of Rustoleum, and freshen up the whole system while you're in there - you won't believe how nice the car will be to drive when it's back together!

robrichtx

That's exactly what I plan to do Pete Rebuild the pedal cluster, might even go get it sand/bead blasted. Any thoughts on any colors other than black? I tend to keep things original.

Also - any thoughts about painting the floor pan while I am down there? I guess no one will see it, but I suffer from "Sensuous" sickness. "Sensuous in there, might as well...."

Rob

Peter Zimmermann

I know your ailment, I do the same thing. That old, "While you're in there deal..."

I just use satin black on the pedal tray and arms, they always come out really nice - especially if they're bead blasted first! FYI: I only use P-car dealer replacement plastic bushings, I don't believe in the after market brass ones for cars used on the street, either as daily drivers or toys.

I think that your floor should clean up very nice, unless "the elements" have found their way in.